Spinners

maybe spinner should be put up against demo bots in some shows, bots that have been built to be destroyed, give the audience there money worth as watching 3 pusher bots can be come boring at times if your at a all day event, could spice things up and bring in money if there allowed.

just an idea

ant

Theyre only not allowed because the arenas cant handle them Anthony.

I agree with you ant, i see no reason why a robot with a demo weapon that spins, specifically designed for special effects not damage, could not fight a pre-rehearsed battle with a comedy clowns car type robot, designed to come apart in safe sized pieces.

Done correctly, there would be no safety issues in any of the current arenas. Think of it as a special effects show rather than a fight.

sorry misunderstood i ment if there was an arena that can hold them

Of course it would be safe in James arena :)

(heavy sarcasm intended for those that cant pick up on it)

genius

(Message edited by jamesb on June 07, 2007)

For a spinner to be used in the uk it would have to be in an arena with steel floor very strong barriers probably catch nets befor the polycarbonate plus some strong roof material/netting to stop bits going too far dont forget its sometimes parts of the spinner that goes into orbit!!

what you want really is the old robotwars arena from tv, which i think they should bring back one day.

what you want really is the old robotwars arena from tv, which i think they should bring back one day.

Youll find it in a scrap yard!

Just a question about the relay Ive got for the spinner for The Saint,
It€™s all straight forward with two N/C contacts and two N/O contacts so to get the motor going just connect the two N/O contacts and make the solenoid connection and BINGO the disc spins.

The Question is can I connect the two motor tails to the N/C contacts so the motor is isolated from the batteries but connected to itself and this act as a magnetic break when the solenoid is de-energised?

Yes ...but youll really need to add in a resistor that can cope with dissapating some of the energy your trying to dump .... without it the motor will stop dead probably damaging it and the solenoid contacts may well weld shut.

There is an awful lot of energy to instantly dump in the spinner and motor.

http://www.answers.com/topic/dynamic-braking?cat=technologyhttp://www.answers.com/topic/dynamic...cat=technology

Thanks Woody
Do you know what size and where to go for the resistor?
I€™ve tried the link but I don€™t know what to get as far as capacity and type.

Not a clue!

I would experiment with a long pieces of wire. Start very long (=low braking effect+less heat) and shorten it till you get what you want.
Apparently Brian Nave (http://www.teamlogicom.comhttp://www.teamlogicom.com) has experimented with dynamic braking a lot and found wire was best (he posted about it on the American forums ages ago).
As a first stab, I would assume that as soon as you switch the motor off, it will act as a generator and give you your battery voltage as an output. V^2/R = braking power. i.e. about 0.5 ohms resistor gives you 1kw braking power. I think this is about 20m of 16gauge wire. I doubt youll be able to find a 1kw resistor that will fit in a robot.

I have an interesting problem with the control for the spinner motor on the Saint
I have a perm motor switched via a 100 amp (300 amp max) contactor. This is operated by a 10A radio relay connected to spectrum radio. All works well, the no signal cut off works no problem.
The problem starts when I operate the wheel motors with the disc motor off, the 10A relay cuts in for a second and then drops out as if there is a stray signal going from the receiver to the relay. If I run the motors slowly up to full power the fault dose not seem to occur so often, I have tried all connections and they are sound, and put the relay on different channels on the RX, also shielded the RX and the relay in an aluminium box with no change in the fault. The RX is powered via the BEC on the Sidewinder speed controller.
Any ideas as to the problem?

Have you tried running the rx on a seperate battery??

I have had a similar problem with my scorpion xl and sabretooth escs when running the BEC and battleswitch relay- putting a seperate rx pack seemed to help.

Will

I would guess its more of a power issue rather than radio, dunno what though :crazy:

The Battleswitch and Pico ...theyre both sensitive to .... something.

Ive spent hours and hours trying to cure the fault you describe.... I only persevered because I needed the small size in my Feather....and SEEM to have suceeded ...but Id recommend buying an alternative make.

The above assumes you have the Battle or Pico switch.

(Message edited by woody on June 19, 2008)

Yes it is a 10A Battleswitch from Technobots,
Can you recommend a switch that will work in my situation

:)

thanks

Leo recommended one of these.

http://www.modelbouwbloemendaal.nl/N_frame.html?http://www.modelbouwbloemendaal.nl/Robbe-8445-DUO-SWITCH-_MEMO_--N_art_3206.phphttp://www.modelbouwbloemendaal.nl/N...N_art_3206.php

There is a similar one on Ebay ...but the amps rating is less.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROBBE-DUO-SWITCH-UNIT-83192000-R-C-Accessories_W0QQitemZ120272473081QQihZ002QQcategor yZ140972QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m1 53.l1262http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROBBE-DUO-SWIT...es_W0QQitemZ12 0272473081QQihZ002QQcategoryZ140972QQtcZphotoQQcmd ZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153. l1262

NOT sure of your contactors amp pull ...so may not be suitably rated.



(Message edited by woody on June 19, 2008)

I used the Robbe duo-switch in Project One to switch an Albright SW88 24V B, another switched the main failsafe Albright SW80 24V B.

Never had any problems with those.

Electronize do switch modules.
http://www.electronize.co.uk/index.htmhttp://www.electronize.co.uk/index.htm

Those Robbe switches come in mono and duo. At the moment we use the monos in several of our flippers, and de Duo version is in Obsidian for the Axe.

They of course in turn open and close the circuit for the solenoids on the pneumatic valves. Those solenoids are ususaly reated between 8 and 10 W @ 24V.

I dont know how much power you have to pull to open your relays, but it could be you need to cascade it with some relays in between. Ususally that is not needed though, those Robbes can draw quite a lot without much trouble. The specs Robbe gives are very conservative.

The specs of th Robbe switches are impressive enough. 24V 3A max.
But the steering circuit only sees the voltage from the reciever.
The small relais on these switches are the same as on the original Electronize 15A ESCs.

I have a Robbe 8445 DUO SWITCH (MEMO) switch for a project I am working on, and after removing the link I got it to work very well. I wonder is there a single switch with no memory that would do made by the same people, as the one i now have seems a little overkill.

Thanks again
Craig
:)

The 8444 is the single version, which basically is the same as the 8445 (even the same circuit board) but with one relay and electronics side removed.

They all pretty much do have memory, but as you found out already that is just a simple case of removing the jumper and the memory funktion is disabled.

Most hobby shops in holland only suply these switches from Robbe, and after that you go down to the switches for brake lights and headlights for RC trucks for instance. But they seldom go above 15V and 4A.

Hi Craig,
I assume the Robbe is stable and giving no probs?

KO uses the Due Robbe, used them since A spec and never had any problems, however we do always re solder the relay terminals as they sometimes are not very well done.

Thanks guys yes it worked very well on the disc motor.
The only problem I have is, when the batteries are starting to run down the 100A contactor dose not cut in, there is 24v at the coil but the motor dose not start up, but if I spin the drive wheels the re-gen breaking kicks the volts up enough for it to kick in then the motor works ok.
I can only think the contactor needs slightly more than 24v to get it to work, it is a €œsealed can€ design so I can€™t lubricate it, I can only hope it will loosen up with age or failing that I could use the Albright contactor in the garage.
:)

Id consider checking / changing / uprating your batteries ... a 24v relay / contactor will have a fairly wide voltage spread and should happily pull in at a much lower voltage than its nominal rating.

Albright quote a pull in @ 66% of rated Voltage

(Message edited by woody on June 20, 2008)

I have tested the solenoid on the contactor today and it worked fine I am hoping the unit is new and stiff as a result it seems to be loosening off like I say the voltage was measured in the stalled position at the solenoid connectors at 24v but batteries are the main concern for me in this robot 2 sla 17ah is not a lot for a spinner:uhoh:

Bite the bullet and buy a pair of Hawkers.... theyre a sound investment in the long run.

http://www.shop.edirectory.co.uk/knight_batteries/2267/moreinfoa/d/odyssey+pc680+battery+yamaha+vmax+odyssey/pid/31735768http://www.shop.edirectory.co.uk/kni.../odyssey+pc680 +battery+yamaha+vmax+odyssey/pid/31735768

There the ones Im talking about :)

OK....So your abusing them :)
I am however surprised that the voltage drops so low as to cause problems with the contactor not pulling in.

The contactor has been better today, like I say I think it may be just a tight contactor. Ive now started on the new top armour for The Saint it is 8mm HDPE with either 1.3mm titanium or 3mm ARM depends on how much weight I have left.:)

Shame that spinners arnt alowd, otherwise Hunter would had been a spinner...