You can use two electronizes, just connect the motors in parallel
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You can use two electronizes, just connect the motors in parallel
As ewan said just connect the motors in parallel in pairs. One pair (side) per speedo. So you only need 2 electronizes. As for the batteries - im sure if you connect one 12v pack to one electronize and another 12v pack to another electronize you will be fine for a battle. I know Jonno made a robot called Foxy Boxy with 4 12v Drills, 2 Electronizes, and only 2 battery packs (one per side) and it ran for ages. Thats your best bet.
Mr Stu
ah, i didnt think of that, lol. k cool thats my problem sorted then :)
Im havin doubts about the power of the 12V drills, is there anybody that can give me an example of what power 4 of them will have or anyone know the approximate wattage of them ?
EDIT, one thing i forgotten to mention, anyone know the gearing ratio on the drills ?
Hiya Andrew,
Dont worry about the wattage - thats going into too much detail which is pointless to be honest - 4 Drill motors will push a feather weight with Astro Flights for drive (FACT!). I remember someone telling me the gear ratio is about 16:1 - if its true or not i dont know, but the output shaft spins at aprox 1000rpm.
Andrew - best way to get into this and have fun is to build the thing with 4 Drill motors - you WILL have more than enough push/wattage/power to push a feather weight. How grippy your wheels are or what your scoop design is like is another factor to how good you will push. At a later date you can modify your battery packs of buy some decent ones from a model shop or online from technobots.co.uk or overlander.co.uk and up the voltage to speed your robot up. But you u need to start somewhere. - Good luck as you seem very technicaly minded and trying to think of the design from every angle.
Mr Stu
lol, Thanks mr stu. Im almost done with my endless questions i promise !
think this will be the last batch.
OK the speed controllers, 15A enough ? Whats involved in the DIY electronize kits, will i simply plug a few things together or will i need to get the soldering iron out ?
ok one thing i havnt thought about properly yet is connecting the wheels to the output of my motor, how do i do it ? Any fiddling need due to it coming from a drill ?
I think you may be pushing it using 15A controllers with 2 drill motors, perhaps look at 30A, then again im using wiper motors, so what do i know :P
The DIY kits will require the soldering iron as far as i know, but to be honest I would just pay the little bit extra and save the hastle!
Or you could have the self satification of making your own speedos :)
You will need a soldering iron and you will also need failsafes on the DIY models as well as the normal 10-15ampers. On the more expensive 15 and 30 amp ones they have a built in failsafe. When you add together the cost of a DIY 10amp and a failsafe it is cheeper just to buy the 15amper with built in failsafe.
For 4 motors you will need 30ampers though
Andrew- keep the questions coming - thats how we all learnt mate - and were all here to help im sure.
I really wouldnt go for anything lower than 30amps. Drill motors are good things, but are always hungry for battery power. If you stall them a bit, or start to push another robot, they will eat all your battery power just for starters, let alone main course. Also i think 2 drills will blow a 15amp one quite soon, if not soon as you try and push anything. also the 30ampers are already built and have a good failsafe in them really. So they are your best bet mate.
Mr Stu
The question you asked about connecting the wheels to the shafts---
once the chuck of the drill is removed, there is a large thread on the end on which you will attach your wheels directly too. This means putting a thread into the hubs of your wheels (this can be done either tapping the hub, or much better pressing or melting a nut into them) the left handed thread on end of the motor shaft is always used to lock the wheel on exactly the same as the chuck. If you do not have the facilities to put a bolt into your wheels, or do not have wheels then give me a ring on 07900913521 or e-mail me at coop_bmx@msn.com on behalf of Rc Wars/Robo-Challenge. We sell many different types of wheels extreamly good for featherweights and some heavyweights, and the best seller by far are the famous BLUE wheels that razer and many many other robots use. We make the wheels at my dads factory and so we can sell them onto roboteers at very low prices.
good luck
hehe , grant you read my mind, i was just about to ask about that kinds of wheels to use. Yeah i dont have the facilities to do that :sad: but you have mail :)
ok a few minor points i just thought of, whats the best way of mounting the motors ? and connecting them, as wont they just be a loose wire as i had to remove them from a drill ? As im connecting 2 motors in parallel to each of my speed controllers, what kind of wiring/connectors should i use.
and the nominal 5V receiver supply used to power the speed controller, whats this, do i need to do anything to convert my 12V battery output to 5V ? im sitting thinking no, as i need my 12V to get to my motors to power them but i want to check
thanks again
I have sent you an e-mail with prices, would you like to give me a call as soon as possible and we can sort something out, including any other problems you may have.
Good luck
what size are the wheels you supply?
id be interested in some.
Hi Mark
The Blue wheels are avalible in 63mm, 75mm, 100mm, 125mm and 150mm. there are larger but these are the most popular. We are also pushing a new range of wheel which is maufactured exclusivly for Robo-Challenge. These are 100mm diameter.
Drill kits will be avalible very soon. these will include a high quality lazer cut steel drill mount and modified wheels with the threads melted in.
for more information email us at robostore@RoboChallenge.co.uk
ok, heres my parts list so far minus the chassis/armour materials
1 x Futuba Skysports 4 Channel Transmitter with Receiver/Servos £105.58
2 x Electronize 30A Speed Controller £79.80
4 x 12V Cordless Drill (Motor, Gearbox, Battery,Charger) £59.96
4 x 100mm Black Wheel £20.00
4 x Motor Bracket £24.00
1 x Mixer £12.99
Misc - cables/connectors etc £5.00
Grand Total of £307.33 without any chassis or armour materials, and i havnt even budgeted for a weapon yet !!! is it always this expensive or is it just the cost of the transmitter thats making it seem so huge ?
Most importantly, is my list complete, am i missing anything ?
it is always that expensive.
You can do it for cheaper by getting parts second hand or through sponsorship.
O and you will need to add a removable link onto that list, you can get one off of stu for £5 if you ask nicely :)
Yep, they can very often cost many hundreds more like in my case:sad: The transmitter is the main bulk of the buy which makes any size robot feel expensive, even antweights. You may not need a mixer though, all depends on if thats the way you prefer to drive. personally i dont like the things, but most people do.
Also, it may be worth your while if you speak to a few companies or send some e-mails round for some form of sponsorship as this will help you alot in the future. It means that any ideas you may have for improving your robot can have a hope in hell of ever being produced lol.
best of luck
So what will happen if i dont have a mixer, i thought i need a mixer for skid style steering ?
If you dont have a mixer, it will be very hard to control the robot on 1 stick (which about 90% of roboteers do) or you can put the RIGHT motor on (off top of head) on channel 2 and the LEFT motor on hmm channel 3 (left vertical stick) and you can control it like a Tank. Means you need to use both sticks to control the robot. Both sticks up for forwards, both back for backwards, the left stick forwards and the right stick down(backwards) to turn right - and vis versa.
A mixer takes both channels and then enables you to control forwards and backwards on one channel and left and right on another channel. Like i said most people use channels 1 and 2 (which is the right stick on a TX) to contorl a robot (Seems easiest and uses only one thumb to operate means u can use left hand to control weapons etc) or some people put forwards and backwards on the left stick and right and left on the right stick. This is because most RC Cars are controlled like that and their used to it.
Then some strange people like Scoprion put forwards and backwards on the RIGHT stick and left and right on the LEFT stick. very annoying indeed, but its whatever suits the driver. Some people use bloody wheel TXs like Ian L from Razer, but drives the machine like part of his body, George F drives Chaos 2 using just the right stick like most roboteers, and he drives that again very very well. Its whatever the driver prefers.
But newbies do prefer using a mixer and controlling the robot all on the RIGHT stick. Its prob about 90% of roboteers fav way and also my personal way.
Wow Essay over. If you spot any spelling mistakes i dont care, typing it very fast as i gota go out. You get the picture :proud:
Mr Stu
i think im gonna go with a mixer then, seems easier
Who are you called strange stu?
I control typhoon 2 with forward and back on the right stick and left and right on the left :)
Never played Gran Turismo stu?
:)
Oi...Less of the strange Stu!! :)
Tell you what ..You can tell John hes strange..If you dare! :wink:
I did when he let me drive Scorpion JR !LOL! And in fairness i could still drive it well enough to write off MicroCHIP. Ekkk. LOL. Well Gary, i never trusted men in uniform anyway. LOL!!!
And ataully no Mark, never plaied that game. hmmm.
Mr Stu
SO IT WAS YOU!!!!!!!
(when was that then, I really dont remember....)
Oh dear :sad: It was at the Iron Bridge Event. You know it was me coz you said ill get youll back. LOL
Mr Stu
I must have altzheimers! Obviously I remember us getting mullered at Iron Bridge but Id forgotten it was you driving Scorpion Jr. Well have to leave that effigy of Geoff alone now. If Id known it was you I wouldnt have posted that cheque yesterday lol.
LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its a good job the Green belt for the disc broke half way through the battle !!! You wouldnt have been the only bot. LOL!!!!
Mr Stu