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Weve done a similair thing but instead of using a rc switch we used a model aircraft speed controller. It fits directly on the back of the motor & plugs into the rx. It has a failsafe built in so breaking the white wire causes it to stop. I think it cost £20 for the 30A 12V one. The speed controller only works one way but is alot smaller and lighter than most rc switchs.
Would a simple servo powering an on/off switch work?
Regards
Ian mc Dona;d
Course it would but it will be a bigger system. Can you remember the old mech speed controller for RC cars these would be ideal or you. Just remove that large resistor and only use the last speed (Think they are only 3 speeds)
Hi
In my profile I have a pic of my Servo Powered Switch will this be ok in your opinion?
Regards
Ian Mc Donald
Neat! Looks ok, assuming the switch can handle the current drawn by the compressor.
That Switch will NOT handle the current of a compressor. Am i right thats- that switch is a normal RC Swtich?
Even so it looks WAY too slow. Comprssors have been draining peopls NICAD packs for god sake. Dont think that switch will hold up very well.
Use something like a hmm what they called, micro swtichs? forgot their name, never uses em. Use one of them to turn on/off a relay.
The switch you have is maybe only around 5/8amps.
Mr Stu
Agreed. Microswitches are normally good for around 25A. or you could plug it into a relay. I reckon a microswitch on its own would probably work.
The compressor Ive got runs up to 300psi but we only use it to 150psi at that pressure the motor is drawing just under 10 Amps. At stall the motor draws 50Amps but if nothing goes wrong with the compressor then a 10 Amp Continous Rated switch would work. It is still important to note that the switch must still be able to handle the 50 Amps peak current on contact or the resulting spark will jam the switch ON. This is a common fault with Relays in Heavies operating weapon motors. Even worse if its a disc.
Our solution is still the Speed controller. Usually weights less and more reliable (4QDs Excluded).
Ian, the way to be safe is simply connect a relay to the microswitch. The switch then turns the relay on, and assuming you get one that will handle say 50 or 70 amps youll be laughing ! You can still use what youve already made, and make it even more reliable !
Ed
http://www.stormrobot.comhttp://www.stormrobot.com
Its not a standard rx switch. Its one I bought from a catologue. Its good for about 10-15amps.
If it dont work it dont work but it should work for the valve atleast (the solenoid valve)
Comments Please
regards
Ian Mc Donald
Will work fine for a valve, but youre risking having the contacts in the microswitch weld themselves shut if you try to use it for the compressor motor which at stall will draw far more than 10-15 amps.
What you want is something like one of these http://www.technobots.co.uk/en-gb/dept_31.htmlhttp://www.technobots.co.uk/en-gb/dept_31.html that your microswitch can operate. £1.95 from Technobots !
Ed
http://www.stormrobot.comhttp://www.stormrobot.com
I got around tht problem now and the robot is nearly complete now but i have ran into another problem how do I mound the flipper to the ram?
Regards
Ian Mc Donald
Hi
Could somebody give me the dimensions ofand weight of an aluminium 600g Co2 Bottle please
Regards
Ian Mc Donald
ours weighs 960g empty cant remember what the size is. about a foot long.
the aluminium bottle we use in ickle rus which is a 600g aluminium bottle is 24cm long by 8cm in diameter without the screw down valve.
Francis
http://www.ceros.org.ukwww.ceros.org.uk
Thanks guys but yet another question (will they every stop i hear you ask). Will a 12v solenoid valve work at 14.4v or will it blow? I simply dont have the money to go out and invest in more batteries when my current ones are perfect except that they are 7.2v packs not 6v.
Any other surgestions welcome.
Regards
Ian Mc Donald
Cant see that being a problem at all.
14.4V will work just fine.
12V isnt exactly 12V either.
Thanks now i just need to source all the parts
Regards
Ian Mc Donald
Mario has some 1/4 and some 1/8 5/2 valves. might be worth looking into?...i assume it was you talking to me on msn about borrowning a valve the other day- if so talk to mario because i blew my only spair a couple of months back...and as for the r/c switches on the compressor why not just atatch the compressor to your main link and pressure switch? that way you dont have to think about it when driving your machine.
Dave have ordered a valve from mario and have worked out all the problems regarding the compresser.
Regards
Ian Mc Donald
Hey
I was just wondering is it true that Cutlet 540 now has no base plate?
Also what is it now using for drive. I saw recently it had Valconised (spelling? same as storm 2) wheels. Is he still using drills?
Thanks
Regards
Ian
he has a steel box section frame as a chassis. he still uses modded drills. he has nice new wheels. Ian will know more then me :P
i dont think 540 ever had a base plate...
http://www.ian.lockhart1.btinternet.co.uk/images/fp2.jpghttp://www.ian.lockhart1.btinternet....images/fp2.jpg
pritty much all built up on the frame form what i know. batmans the man to be asking.
and yes hes got some gorgeous new wheels and vulk to go on them *drools*
Cutlet is made from 25mm square x 2.5mm thick steel box section with a titanium outer shell over the top. There is no base plate (So you get a quick glimpse of its knickers when it sremechs).
The drive is still drill motors but with a slightly modified gearbox, and as Chris rightly said we now have Storm type Vulcralon coated aluminium wheels.
One other perhaps interesting point is that we only use one ACL valve in the robot. (i.e. we dont use one to dump the gas after firing). Instead we have a controlled leak at the entrance to the ram........a 0.8mm hole!!! This saved 0.7Kg and allowed us more weight for the frame. The hole doesnt seem to affect the power of the flipper as we only use a very small volume of gas in our very small 32mm x 50mm stroke ram.
Ian
I also got nice wheels in blue though, and so does Razer! I bet non of youlot noticed they ey, lol.
The vulcanon however u say it stuff is just polyurathane (i think thats what its called) but with a fancy name and a nice colour and hefty price tagg to go with it.
I get my Blue wheels for half the price of vulc**** tires, but then again, you cant have it put onto any sized wheel you like, just buy the thing as a whole wheel :sad:
My dad did some EXtreme research on these volcon things and found out PloughBot was running the same in blue!
It shocked me as i was just about to make some new wheels to get coated in the stuiff lol.
Thanks
Grant
I think Vader used vulconized wheels aswell...His was black...the colour doesnt make mutch differance grant:) its the sure leval or somthing like that.
Dave moulds
Team Turbine
No dave, i think youve got it all wrong, its definatly the colour that makes all the difference :)
There is a difference between Vulcanised rubber wheels and a brand name product called Vulkollan which is what Storm II and others run on their wheels.
Ed
http://www.stormrobot.comhttp://www.stormrobot.com
Eds correct there guys. Vulcalon is the name of the rubber itself, while vulcanising metal is how you attach it.