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Yeah I did think about that but from the front it shouldn't be too bad as it that plow is planned to be 6mm Hardox. i did make some designs which did protect the wheels but they added complexty and looked plumb ugly =PQuote:
Originally Posted by R9000
Thanks for the Link, do they have any information about how much they weigh as i cannot find it unless i'm being a muppet and it's right in front of us.Quote:
Originally Posted by TechAUmNu
They don't list the weight, but if you can make them in cad you can roughly estimate them I guess.
time rough over guesstermation! this is gonna be fun in Sketch upQuote:
Originally Posted by TechAUmNu
When do you think you will be ready for your first battle, looks good so far.
at my current build speed.......... 2077 =P
I am aiming for 95% completion ( everything bar hardox cut part ) end of this year.
planning to do some more work on the bot this afternoon but spent a bit of this morning working on REC model for sketchup. pretty confendent it accurate.
you can find it on the 3d warehouse or a dropbox I am planning to set up.
LINK
Attachment 7405
EDIT: added Image
EDIT2: adding Dropbox link
Done some work on the bot, mounted the moters to the sides and base plate and did some test driving.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7zQ...ature=youtu.be
(crowbar is for ballast)
just need to do a load of fab work on the mounting blocks and we are not too far from a functional bot.
well I missed my target, damn flu and wet weather, gotten some bits done just need to bolt stuff together really. So, in the meantime I got my head around Fusion 360 and copied Blacksmith across from Sketchup.
Attachment 7573
So, as I have copied into 360 I thought I make some improvements from problems I have noted thus far. I standardised the thickness of HDPE and I also made it a tad longer, so I could move the drive motors back, move the battery to behind the front brace as well as most of electronics, this will hopefully keep the nose down and improve handling.
Attachment 7574
Also, have had a little idea of using magnetic limit switches with an Arduino or something in the axe mechanism to act as end stops which allows me to us a switch on my transmitter making driving the bot easier.
But I first need to finish this one…
share link http://a360.co/2CKcPuC
Looks neat - reminds me of a cross between TMHWK and Mortis. What thickness of HDPE are you planning on using?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ocracoke
15mm frame
20mm axe frame
5mm top, side and front angled (might thicken that last bit)
compared a odd pog of currnely building which I might rename to "Bodgesmith"
Attachment 7578
Looks tidier than my featherweight ;) 5mm is fairly thin mind - The Honey Badger 2.x has 10mm HDPE all around and after encountering Shrekt (a vertical spinner), there are some serious gouges in the panels so if you can thicken it up, it can only be better protection.
the 5mm HDPE is the top and the angled side, the front plow should be 4/5mm HARDOX
Nice bronze bushings. :D
aren't they smexy =PQuote:
Originally Posted by R9000
Quick update, work colleague got a 3d printer "for his kid" and offered to print us a new battery box.
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It is only 4mm PLA, so it isn't the strongest thing in the world, but I have heard that it possible to "heat treat" it to improve the layer bonding which improve the strength (by a lot apparently).
Also in the progress of ordering the Hardox armour and hammer from K-cut.
I might get this bot done before the end of this century. =P
Attachment 7627Attachment 7628Attachment 7629
yay HARDOX is on its way
That wedge plate looks awesome. Is it welded together at the sides?
Looks folded to me. Has the tell tale cutouts on the ends of the bend lines.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechAUmNu
good eye you have their, yes it is folded
wedge 4mm 450 hammer 6mm 500
Did K-cut bend the material?
yeep £115 all in. material, cut, bent shippedQuote:
Originally Posted by Danjr1
with the hammer piece as well?!
yeep, it was £13 CHEAPER then the front plate, that the cost of bending it IIRC
The bends are too sharp actualy, will be a weak spot.
Should have been bended with a radius of 4 times plate thickness. That is why, when I need a sharp bend, I grind and weld hardox.
how many degrees counts as a shape bend ? As i requested it to be bent at 35 degrees
Attachment 7630
You can find all the "rules" on working with Hardox on the SSAB site.
https://www.ssab.com/download-center...ter=&dcSearch=
There you can click "processing instructions".
Have fun reading all the information.
Well it the Steel is here, only really got 4 things left to do.
1. Drill out some of the bolts hole (bolts fit through but to make it a tad cleaner fit)
2. Order the bolts required.
3. cut and tap the rest of the alu mounts
4. enlarge a hole or turn down a axle.
oh yeah and FINISH BUILDING IT.... I need to kick my ass into gear.
Speaking of which, what atr the best drill bits for drilling Hardox, i take a carbide bit and a tonne of lube... but i remember reading somewhere that Bosch blue masonry bits being pretty good at it as well.
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More progress, having steel makes me work more quickly.
Worked on the hammer, drilled out the hole to the correct size was rather easy with a Bosch Multi drill bit. Drill out the bolts hole onto the platewheel that would be attacted to it was rather more probomatic due to a blunt drill bit but I made do.
Did quick and rough weigh in and it looks ontarget
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All in all it starting to look like my design.
only worry is centre of gravity and mobility.
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Looking good! It looks tantalisingly close to being done. Do you reckon it will be ready for a live show soon?
should be
Looks very tidy - I wouldn't worry too much about the centre of gravity at the moment, getting it all working is the first big step ;)
well i have fitted the weapon drive chain, but the chain breaker kit I order for the job, the pin mushroomed and jammed, so that is getting returned.
Anyone know a good chain breaker for 8mm chain (05b or #30) or would punches be my best bet
I just use a small hex bit and a vice. Bit fiddly but works.
Anglegrind the mushroomed pin flat, that should help driving it out. Infortunatly, that makes reuse of that pin inpossible.
So realistically if i get off my arse Blacksmith (seriously considering of nameing it bodgesmith) should be ready tomorrow.
Got a 3d printed jig allowing for me to cut the alu closer to my required spec so that allowed me to mount the front armour plate much quicker and easier.
Only items left are createing and mounting the side, top and angled front HDPE which should be easy enough.
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Just got three question.
Weapon retaining bar, is a screwdriver good enough? To be honest I am planning to get a m5x150 bolt and weld a handle on it but having a idea of a backup is nice.
What type of foam packing do people use round their batteries to help them not move?
haven't driven in anger just yet, but if the Center of mass is too far back, would adding a wheel bar type thing to force the nose down be a useful thing ??
I've definitely seen meaty screwdrivers being used in the Beetleweight category to stop spinners. So long as it is as thick as a M5 bolt as you are planning, I can't see any reason why this wouldn't work.Quote:
Weapon retaining bar, is a screwdriver good enough? To be honest I am planning to get a m5x150 bolt and weld a handle on it but having a idea of a backup is nice.
I use Sainsbury shopping bags in mine plus the batteries are in a LiPo bag anyway. Works fine for my application. ;)Quote:
What type of foam packing do people use round their batteries to help them not move?
Try driving it around in anger first but personally, I think you'll be OK as is.Quote:
haven't driven in anger just yet, but if the Center of mass is too far back, would adding a wheel bar type thing to force the nose down be a useful thing ??
Well i failed to get it done yesterday, Im going to blame the weather....
Attachment 7769
Just make 4 more alu mount blocks and cut out some HDPE and bobs your uncle.
Out of curiosity, where did you get the threaded bar from?