Just buy the 48v version if you want to run it at 48v?
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Just buy the 48v version if you want to run it at 48v?
running it at 48v is a quick way to a toasted motor.
Yeah, I figured as much. I ask purely because you can't get the 48v version on Amazon.
Feeding a 24v motor 48V is asking for a fried motor, especialy the already hot running Ampflows.
36V with a good gearratio is maybe an option.
Maybe 30V as a compromise?
From what I can gather, Ampflows really don't like running much above their rated voltage for long periods of time. 30v (7s lipo) should be okay but I wouldn't want to go much above that.
I've run 24v ampflows on 33.3 volts 9cell a123 for years no problems.
I'm assuming that's in a drive application Terry? A spin up motor on a disc will be under a hell of a lot more stress than drive motors if you are gearing it for high top speed. That's the issue running the mags on higher voltage. Higher voltage = higher current = higher temperatures
Yes it was the drive motors.
With a decent gear reduction I suppose.
Ive had Vyper Speed controllers on order from robot marketplace for months now and they are still on back order. what other options are there for speed controllers? these will be for drive motors.
I Know I know, but doesn't seem to handle much current, running out of options now anyway so may have to get the rages.
Got my mitts on some brushless controllers recently too :)
You don't have a rammer though. If your gearing is right then you shouldn't be drawing a huge amount of current on the drive. From what i've heard they have handled drive systems well in the US. I'm planning on dumping the vantec for one if I can afford it in due course.
edit - brushless is fun and potentially promising but I just don't see the reliability there. As you lose a match instantly if you lose drive then it's not attractive to me.
I think its not clear how much current a rage bridge will handle. If its 40A per channel and you put both channels together to drive one motor I would assume its 80A. I used to run supernova on 4QD pro 120A controllers and they used to get very hot running bosch motors at 30V. Though supernova is 2WD, when it turns it swings around the disc ie skid steering.
I'm planning a new robot too which will be 4WD.
I think brushless is the way to go in the long run, just having a tinker currently.
My question would be how accurate the 4QD ratings were :)
Yup good point, i'll give the Rage bridges a go then. Sick of waiting for a controller.
From what i've seen the guys that made the rage bridge are happy to discuss the ins and outs of it. Maybe if you get in touch with your planned set up they could advise if it would be appropriate or not?
I think there's still a backlog being caught up on from the multiple Battlebots and Robot Wars teams that emptied the stocks. An alternative option that is similarly priced is the IFI Victor/Vex 885. Handles 120A continuous and 200A bursts if I remember rightly.
Edit: here's the link; http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/IFI-V885.html
Planning on using these myself, purely because I have a 60A version already as a spare. Slightly cheaper than the Vypers but you do have to get the PWM cable as well. The fan blades are prone to breaking from shocks so you'd be as well removing them, saving a bit of space. Biggest thing to watch is that the FETs don't touch, otherwise it's bye bye controller/repair time.
Ive got a pair of ragebridges for fw use and they are really neat things.
The IFIs seem similar to the vypers... I like them too for the current handling ability, means I can use them for other more current hungry robots in the future. No BEC though, that's a pain. Thanks for the advice folks, will have to decide soon.
One option is to use a dedicated BEC, something like this: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking...dproduct=31609
Yes it's another component so another potential failure point, but I use these in robots that don't have BEC ESCs and I like them. Leaves the ESCs free to focus on doing their job :)
The other bonus with a separate BEC is that you can use it to drive things that don't need high voltage in the robot. I may have used one in a robot recently that allowed me to run some RC relays and the power LEDs from it.
Slightly different question - Does anyone know of any motors equivalent to the ETEK-R in the UK? I'm looking for a huge motor to power the weapon, but the ETEK-R isn't available in the UK anywhere.
Something from Lynch Motors? http://lynchmotors.co.uk/generators-...enerators.html
lynch will in all likelihood cost much more even with import fees etc. Unfortunately you don't have much choice in the UK for heavyweight spinner motors. Importing or finding one second hand are your main options.
We got a quote for a LEM-200 D127 (34HP beast) for our HW spinner and it worked out at about £1400
How's all the components you purchased?. I'm at the same point as when this thread started and been looking at the same motor, esc.
It's all gone quite well so far :) We went for the 1KW 36v MY1020's, controlled with the Vypers. We're using all go kart parts geared at 8:1 for drive and it's pretty nippy! I wouldn't be surprised if we start seeing these motors getting used more, they're really good for the price.
I've worked with the M1020's.
My recommendations is to glue the magnets with a decent glue, or support them with mechanical stops.
The front and back plates are el cheapo cast aluminium, and can break. Only supporting the front is asking for broken motors.
Some variants come with mounting points on the body.
The ones I have seen had the thin sheet metal brackets spotwelded to the body. Not very reassuring for RW applications.
And shockmounting is not a luxury anymore.
Glad there working! I was opting for the 48v version, but with doing plenty of reading in the forums and research, getting controllers for 48v is a pain and very expensive!! Two questions, how is shockmounting different to normal mounting? and how much was the shipping cost on your Vipers?
I'm going to have to be very nice to my father, propose an early birthday present. (I'm 32)!!! The rest is do able with overtime from work. Expensive these things. My FW is clocking in about £250/300 and still not finished..!!!!!
Schockmounting. Mounting things so high G impacts get dampened.
Like a rubber cover for your smartphone.
Without, the screen shatters when dropped, with it doesn't.
Yep, shockmounting is when you mount a component in a way that best absorbs shocks and impacts - something to sit between the component and the chassis, something like using rubber washers would help.
The Vypers certainly weren't cheap! - I might actually have one spare that I'm no longer using, would you be interested? PM me if so.
Haven't read much of this thread but if you are still looking at controlling scooter motors then I'd take a look at the ragebridge 2. Used one recently, cracking speedos.
Sorry to hijack the thread somewhat, but is shock mounting really that essential? I don't recall seeing very many heavies with their motors shock mounted, other than those using all-in-one solutions like T64s.
Depends, are your pockets deep enough to replace parts on a regular basis? Even if you aren't planning on fighting spinners it's a very good idea to shock mount battery packs with foam and speed controllers with rubber or allow their mountings to flex in some way. It will mean they last a hell of a lot longer. A modern flipper will still throw your bot 5ft into the air!
Rubber washers it is then. 8)
The Ragebridge2 esc, are you talking about using it as a two or one channel!? Price is defiantly worth it as a two! But I thought 40amps or so was nowhere near enough, read on other threads to aim for 100plus continuous for drive motors to cope with locks up and such!!
As for your spare Vyper Mr Snowlab. I won't be starting to build until after the new year, I also need to learn how to weld before I start any major purchases. So don't hold it just for me, IF you still have it if/when I need it i'l ask. Thank you.
Battery packs and electronics are easy enough, I was more concerned about motors, which I believe is what Maddox was talking about.
Regarding the Ragebridge 2, it deals with spikes of current by limiting the amount of power going to your motors, therefore limiting the current that can be produced. Whereas other ESCs need higher maximum discharge rates to deal with the current spikes, the Ragebridge will ensure that the current never goes that high in the first place. I've read that the only real downside to this is it can slow down acceleration in some circumstances, but there were a lot of machines in Battlebots season 2 using them, so they're definitely suitable.
Motors fall into the same category really. Shocks can dislodge or shatter magnets.
As for the ragebridge, I have ran one on two T64s at 6s on dual channel mode. Initially it had a 24v fan cooling it. The fan didn't last long. The ragebridge however lasted just grand. As long as you aren't doing anything too stupid with it, they are great controllers at the size and price point.
I was meaning every bit that is vurnable. Motors and electronics are the most affected. b
But I had Burkerts break up due shock damage (the stainless steel solenoid tube).
Haven't posted here for a little while but just though I'd post a little upodate. The robot I was building from the start of this thread was Tauron 8) (to be honest, since December, I've been pretty preoccupied building... something better ;))
So I somehow made it onto the show! Wouldnt have made it on without some of the advice in this thread, and from reading many others around this site. It's an awesome community, and I'm glad to be a part of it! :)
FYI we ended up using 2 x MY1020 running at 33v, (rated for 36v), 1000w motors, geared 8:1 each powered by a Vyper ESC.