Have a look at Rory's post on different wheels
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Have a look at Rory's post on different wheels
Oh my god thanku sooo much for the info on hammering rather than melting!!!!!
You have no idea how much this has simplified my life! Every year I come across some tiny bit of info that revolutionises the way I do something. Well that's it for this year!
Hi all, new to the forum, hoping this gets a response as this thread has been inactive for 18 months!! Started buying parts for my first featherweight build, got some drills with the standard 3/8 drive shafts...but...
Simple n00bish question, will these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1506654153...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Be able to to fit into these? (via a hammer)
http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/BZMM100...r_Wheel-8698-p
:oops:
Cheers
Hi Ollie, and welcome!
It's been a while since I've tried to fit UNF nuts into wheels, and I've never tried it with those particular wheels, but I don't think they will fit as they are. You may need to either heat up the UNF nut with something substantial, like a blowtorch, and press them in (with the heat melting the plastic around the nut, and which will harden when it cools) or drill out the hole in the middle of the wheel to a more suitable diameter and then press (via a hammer) the nuts in that way. You should be able to do this second method without having to heat the nuts up if you get the hole size correct.
Can't offer much more than that I'm afraid. At about £2.50 a wheel it might be worth buying a few spares though just incase the first one or two attempts go slightly skewed (don't worry if they do, all part of the learning process :) )
Thanks Jamie.
I figured they might need a little 'persuasion' in some form. This will be a very basic build as I have limited access to tools, but yea I'm thinking as they are cheap, and I won't be entering this FW into any comps, it won't matter too much on performance in the end.
Should do. I would recommend drilling out the centre to match the distance across the flats of the nut (perhaps just shy of it by 0.5mm) and then heat up the nut and press it in. If you have a large 60w plus soldering iron this should heat up to the ideal temperature. If not then a blue flame lighter (few quid on ebay) will do the job too. Just make sure to do it somewhere well ventilated and do not touch the nut when it's hot (seems simple but i've burned myself a good few times doing similar things).
These work and are cheap!
Attachment 5625
Ok guys thanks for the responses. I've ordered some wheels off ebay today that are the same specs as these, 4 for £8... went to my local B&Q, didn't sell grub screws I need for the drill motors (solved now on ebay too) just need to order the connectors!
Waiting for DX6i to arrive, got a receiver today.
Okay unfortunately it seems the 3/8 unf adapters are way too wide to fit in the wheels I have... darn...
Cut them down to size with a hacksaw if you already have them. I would then recommend threading them on from the other end as the thread will likely get a bit damaged during the sawing process.
Oh no I already have them, I'll cut them but I meant too wide as in diameter, they are roughly 18mm across, while the bore is 12mm, I don't have an 18mm drill bit, whether or not that would help (Wheels get pretty thin below the shoulder) I don't know.
I found some of my old "blue" wheels the other day while having a clear out. You're welcome to them if you want?
What size are they Harry? and what bore?
100mm diameter threaded 3/8" UNF bore. Will just screw straight on.
PM'd You
Hi Porker. Have you tried some of the online selling website for the Robochallenge wheels (ebay or craiglist etc). You never know. I needed a platform a while back and found one on Craiglist. Had to drive 60 miles to pick it up, but worth it. I guess you'll be lucky but worth a try. Alternatively look at modifying something like the banebots wheels or think out side the box such as radio control race car supplier or Castor Wheels supplier. Im not sure if feel confident that melting the plastic would work however, as it would probably reduce its integrity.
so is the hex hole in the banebots wheels the same size on all their wheels?
I see, I hear that they stopped making the ones that can be fitted onto 3/8" UNF nuts, which can be mounted to Drill motors.
The hex hole wheels I have used in the past secure onto a hex hub. The bore of the hub as around 0.5mm larger than a drill motor but a thin copper shim allowed it to be used. I'm not sure what the current status of banebots manufacture is.
So does anyone know of any other wheels that can be fitted to drill motor shafts?
Or is going to be a case of making them from scratch?
When I checked Bangbots it says the bores on their wheels are now 1/2 instead of 3/4.Quote:
Originally Posted by typhoon_driver
Yeah the 3/4" hex was the one that was suitable for drill motors with a threaded 3/8" mounting hole. The best option is to make your own now, with the most common method being to melt a 3/8" UNF nut into a plain bore plastic wheel. I did this by sitting the nut on an 80W soldering iron for a minute or so then pressing it into the plastic. Bit of a tricky process to get the nut both concentric and straight so that your wheel doesn't wobble but usually good enough for the job. Not the strongest method as it can wear down over time causing the wheel to come off, but should do the job for a few events at least.
Either plain bore Banebots wheels (with the bore drilled out to 12mm) or the blue wheels from Bearing Boys are the favoured options available at the moment, but anything with no bigger than a 12mm bore should work. I found that if the bore was bigger than 12mm, there wouldn't be enough plastic to melt around the nut, resulting in a weaker connection.
so in theory the new Banebots wheels could be used if I mod themQuote:
Originally Posted by RogueTwoRobots
do you mean these wheels
http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Blue-El...r-Wheel-8698-p
http://www.banebots.com/product/WC1-4.html
Long story short build a beetle lol its all available off the shelf.
I know right, building robots is hard. Occasionally you have to make parts and build things.
Lol not everyone's a machinist by trade, sometimes easier for people to buy tight-tolerance parts off the shelf for a first attempt.
I think it's just a bit of a defeatist attitude. Don't try, it's too hard, build a lego building block robot instead. How are people going to learn without doing. Robots are a great problem solving exercise, its not helpful to anyone to be told to give up and do something else when they ask the best way to do something.
Its not like making wheels like this is the height of difficulty either. I did this as a 13/14 year old (Not wonderful quality granted) with the bare minimum of kit.
Personally I'd go for the bearingboys wheels. They're decent enough and are uk based + cheap.
To be honest I was just trying to make people laugh. I am serious in terms of people starting with a beetle if they're struggling with making a wheel that spins true on a shaft. There's nothing defeatist about starting small n working up to the more difficult stuff.
I started with ant weights myselfQuote:
Originally Posted by daveimi
The Colson wheels you linked to on the Banebots site likely wouldn't work with the nut melt method. The bore comes out at ~15.5mm, which doesn't leave enough material for the nut to melt into. I'd second Harry's advice and go for the Bearing Boys wheels. They're very cheap and plenty of stock, with a 12mm bore which is ideal for melting nuts into, and although they're not as grippy as the 'Blue' wheels that used to be sold by Robo Challenge, that can be easily solved by screwing some bike tyre onto them if you find grip to be an issue.
Ok thanks for the advice guys
Another issue I can see is the width of the wheels from Bearing boys looks like it might take up too much space on the shaft of the drill motor, in my robot's case at least.Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueTwoRobots
Soo... reviving this thread...
I am completely lost on imperial measurements.
So on the usual drill gearboxes, as well as on ranglebox neptunes and a few others we have a 3/8 unf thread on the outside.
And a reverse M5 on the inside?
Anybody can tell me why use two systems of measurement?
The video from Ellis that was mentioned at the start of this thread is sadly gone (or really good at hiding).
I did watch the one posted by Jamie on the hex hub adapters.
Anyway... so to put the wheels on it's like this:
1.get 3/8 UNF Nuts.
2.drill holes in the wheels just a bit smaller than the diameter of the nuts from flat side to flat side.
3.Hammer the nuts in or heat them up and melt them in (both seem to work).
4.put a big washer on the shaft.
5.screw the wheel on the shaft.
6.Put another washer onto the M% reverse screw.
7.Screw that one into the inner thread.
Did i get that right? Or is that outdated anyway by now?
Yeah that's the meat and taters of it. There is a YouTube video from John findlay showing how to build a budget feather. In it, he puts a bolt through a wheel and then just traps the bolt in the chuck of the drill. This is how I've done it for ages and it works spot on. I've never put a pic up of it in my thread for fear of being laughed at! At events no one noticed either lol.
There are some tricks to doing it though u need to know if u go down that route.
Has anyone ever seen these in imperial sizes (like, say, 3/8 unf...)?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-Threade...EAAOSwMgdX1bYd
Attachment 6501
I've been looking hard for them, for wheels. This is the closest I found: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1621813832...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Ooh, shame they aren't ridged to stop them trying to spin round, but they could still work, thanks.
Nothing to stop you scoring them with a grinder or a file and then ramming them into an undersized hole in the wheel.