Its not so bad. If he does get stuck Binky will soon free him :D
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Its not so bad. If he does get stuck Binky will soon free him :D
If its working after 2 qualifying rounds, I hope not :lol:
That's a bold strategy. By the time the robot has been in a battle it's unlikely to have an even 2.5mm Clearence both sides. It pretty certain you will get stuck at some point. Wy not make a weapon to beat your opponent. Surely a brick with no power can't fight, it just gets hit...Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsdragons
I was only having a quick guess but its a 4mm clearence and with the sloped areas at the back to get of wedged plus it bein 6wd and compact I shouldnt really have an issue
You could take a strip of inner-tube and screw it it the out side of the wheel. That would raise it up about 2-3mm. Also is cheap/free if you can find a punctured one
I would recommend a ground clearance of more than 8mm, with tank steer robots the wheels wear with every turn, they is no point in having a low ground clearance, wedges are running against the floor so your never going to stop them getting under you
I would recommend a 20mm ground Clearence, and putting grease on you wheels, it improves traction :P and if you want more power use alkali AA battery's, there the best! :P
Hey, I just want to make sure I'm not violating any rules with this.
Is it okay to use 45a anderson powerpole connectors on my drive motors if i am using a lipo, would i get failed on tech check for doing so?
The main battery connectors are deans btw.
thank you.
Use whatever connectors you fancy
Thank you.
I may have put the scare into Haz because the rules state that batteries require sufficient connectors for their type/power. Someone stated to me that Andersons were not sufficient for lipo use (said person uses lipo's a lot plus he tech checks).
We have a deans on each cable of our LiPo, so we have double whatever the rated current for a deans is (50-60a?). I assume this is acceptable? I didn't feel confident running the 4mm bullet connector it came with, for a start it had been split (previously used for use in series) and I couldn't see that taking the strain as nicely as two deans, really.
It shouldn't be an issue unless you are running a high powered brushless motor that will be running the lipo to it's limits.
Thanks for the responses. I'll stick with how it is and stick up a photo or video once it is all finished just to see if its all okay and there isn't any glaring flaws that will get me disqualified.
On another note, I need to be a bit stupid for a while. I need some help wiring up the weapon. I have a turnigy rc switch and two 70a 5 pin relays (one for each motor) and... yeah. Haven't a bloody clue what to do. I've had a look around and nothing was desperately obvious. Can anyone help me out? I'm so sorry if this has a very obvious answer.
Thank you.
Still in need of some help. Feeling rather foolish.
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...g/e-switch.jpg
Follow the diagram making load the relay coils. Put coils in series if switching voltage > 1/2 battery voltage or in parallel if switching voltage < 1/2 battery voltage.
Either hook up the motors and contacts on a separate battery or put them in parallel with the coils to use the same battery as them.
Thank you, greatly appreciated.
It's now slightly more robot than it was previously. I'm pretty proud that I got something this far, albeit with massive design flaws.
http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps30716571.jpg
Need to get the wiring finished and attach the wedges and wheel guards.