That controller couldn't take 10 cells in seriesQuote:
Battery: 6-18 cells (NiMH or NiCd) or 2-6 cells (Li-Po)
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That controller couldn't take 10 cells in seriesQuote:
Battery: 6-18 cells (NiMH or NiCd) or 2-6 cells (Li-Po)
And yes the design is nice but I would put something to protect those wheels at the front. Every kind of spinner would love a go at those
Woops, missed that bit in Alex's description. Good point.
well I will just get a different motor, we have not brought anything yet besides the Ti so many things may change but my dad is adamant on monstrous drive and multiple weapons so it will probably stick along these lines. The '16' wheels in the armoured configuration is the only way to get down all the power from the drive motors otherwise it will spin its wheels like crazy!
tracks would be better at putting the power down
I have not been able to find a way of making reliable and lightweight tracks and I dont think anyone else has either. I have not seen any tracked feathers anywhere. I know someone here is prototyping one but it keeps throwing its tracks. But you are right, tracks would give much more traction!
Armoured version with more grip or less grip, less armour and a weapon... Should of just bought 540 lol
Are you using magnets? If not don't go crazy on thinking more contact area is a better thing... You only have 13.6kg pushing down on your wheels... So 13.6/4= 3.4 kg per wheel (ideal situation) if you spread that over a large area... It's not much weight pressing your wheels into the floor...
that he should have done 8)
We ended up with 3 designs that looked very 540-esque. But we don't want a copy. 540 is a perfect example of raw pushing power but we wanted something different so here we are. We did have a storm 2 type one, without the lifter but my dad wants some kind of active weapon rather than just a Full Body Hammer, and we also went through things like sewer snake, 101, All Torque, Tornado etc
Put simply we want something different, if it doesn't work like we planned then never mind. All we can do is test out ideas. In then end we are just after some fun and to improve out skills, if we can make a competitive but interesting robot at the same time all the better :)
Oh and no magnets as yet. but we could fit some inside the side pods if we wanted to... I think
Done some work on Conker...
[attachment=0:36ptytsl]Conker MK 2.2 800x800 Crop.jpg[/attachment:36ptytsl]
Its beginning to look more like Tormenta with each alteration...
Sides a now 2mm Ti at 50 Dgrs, might lower that a little more. Underneath is a series of cellite buttresses to support each face. This set up will be used against non spinners so that we can get underneath them easily. Then the idea is to make strategic holes so that when facing spinners, sheets of HDPE can be bolted on to to absorb the hits.
Has anyone ever run one of the Banebots 18V RS775 motors off a Electronize FR30HX? The numbers look ok but I am not sure the ESC will cope at 22.2v... any thoughts?
The Electronize are rated 6-24v, so should be fine.
Its the ampage I am more worried about... : :uhoh:
Well, apparently they have a stall of 130a, at I assume 18v? Seems crazy high to me, but the 30a series of Electronize can, going by their website, take a peak of 570a and handle 90a for a short amount of time.
A single one would probably be fine, as it's likely (unless something goes very wrong) that the wheels would just spin before the motor would stall completely, saving the ESC. Though, in the arena, anything can happen. :lol:
I run the 15a ones with 30a fuses and never had a problem, fuse blows way before the gear
Fuses it is :)
Robot Design 6
[attachment=0:1sfjp6gi]Design 6 V2 QC 01B.jpeg[/attachment:1sfjp6gi]
2x Banebots 18v 16:1 P60 DRive motors with pairs of 124mm wheels
2x Electronize FR30HX
3x 5 Cell 2600mAh Lipo's, two wired in series to drive the weapon motor
1x Hk-40350 800kV Scorpion brushless motor on a 3:1 ratio giving around 9500rpm output
1x Scorpion Commander 50V 130A OPTO ESC
Chassis is cellite 620 with 2x 2mm Ti 2 top and bottom and 20mm HDPE around the edges.
Current weight - drum ~ 9kg
Everything is REALLY tight inside so I am going to build it in wood first to see if I can even get it all in there! It should all go but it will be very close!
Yay!Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex
Also what happened to the disk design that didn't look like a carbon copy of Dave's new drum bot?
You mean the single tooth design? We are still going to use it, I just could not be asked to CAD it up, I was getting tired...
I know its very similar to Dave's, which is similar to Jamie's, which looks like the Riobots machines, which looks a little like Blade from RW series 3, which is probably based on something from the US, which will have been inspired by a lawn mower which was inspired by the old rotary traction engine combine harvesters... but hey it's a good design style :)
So its not a carbon copy as you rightly point out it pretty much is, I have deliberately changed some aspects it so it will be different to Jamie's and Dave's... the drum overlaps with the wheels, the chassis is much shorter as a result, different weapon motor position to try and make the robot as small as possible, motor ESC's under the drive motors to reduce the length even further, but of course it might not even be possible to make as its all so tight!
Does anyone know the weight of a 75mm Robochallnge wheel with the bolt insert?
Or even better, one bolted to a Gimson GR01?
Cheers
Bit of a development today, the new Jigsaw (Dewalt DW341K) and pillar drill arrived today along with a new socket set. With solidworks professional now working as well, it should not be long before we have running machines. We can now export the files to have the bodywork of Conker 2 and Binky cut from Ti and print off the templates for the wooden robot. Progress!
Just dropped of the Titanium sheets at Yorkshire Profiles to get them cut. Should be done by this time next week and then its off to Tadweld in Tadcaster to get the parts joined together. I need to get on and order the HDPE for my machine and start cutting out the inner parts and order all the plastic inserts that will hold it all together. But... PROGRESS!
Looking forward to it mate! The moment they're worth taking, pics pics pics, I want to see this one built from head to toe. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
I will certainly do my best to get as many pics of Conker as I can though I will warn you that I am rubbish at documenting my work but I will do my best :-D
We are going to keep Binky under wraps until its finished and even then we might keep it secret until the 2013 championship but trust me it will be worth the wait!
Sorry, the board attachment quota has been reached.
What does this mea? No more photos?
Don't bother with the attachment system, use a hosting site, such as www.imgur.com or photobucket. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
Just arrived back from picking up the parts cut for Conker II and Binky. They look so swish!
http://teameventorizon.imgur.com/all/
Have a look at them here and follow the development of both robots. Enjoy :-)
it is saying your images are not pubicly avaiable
Click View all albums
Really nice and neat, wish I had access to something like that!!
very nice :), im getting my nexdt fw base waterjet/laser cut
that conker is a solid looking machine!
seriously man that will be fun in the arena.
is it going to be 2 speed 900disc :twisted:?
Yep but I have made two key changes...
1: it is re-geared to 3.33:1 ratio (12T & 40T)
2: it is running of two 5 cell lipos in series to give 37V
With those modifications the theoretical speed of the disc has gone from 4500 RPM to 6000 RPM!
That's looking sweet!
looks much improved from the original Conker and should do really well at the champs next year :D
Got working on Conker's uprights today and got most of the work done but the big step today is that we took Binky to Tadweld top get him welded up. I can't show you but he is looking Sweeeeet! They have only tacked the pieces but they should finish the final welds tomorrow. From a pile of pieces to a full chassis and armour in less than a week!
And its all gone wrong... We got Binky back yesterday and the darn thing doesn't fit properly despite us giving the company all the pieces they needed to make it line up perfectly.
The back end is bowed though a good 4-5mm and some of the welds are over a millimetre out of alignment. Track one mistake round the rest of the triangular panels and the whole armour is twisted.
I am pretty sure we are going to take it back and have them redo at least one side. We will have to cut new parts for it but if the armour doesn't fit then it will leave all of the internals vulnerable.
On the plus side Conker is coming along nicely. Just need to file down some of the HDPE in places to it all fits nicely then start bolting him together. Though I don't have a 28mm or 62mm drill but for the bearing or the motor but that can wait til uni.
that's not overly surprising on such a thin chassis
The problem of thin metal, and welding without continually checking for wonkiness
On more detailed inspection it seems we have our problem. The main back plate at the base was welded a good 5 degrees away from where is should be and as a result that has moved all the other plates out of alignment. If we can get them to re do the back then everything should drop into place as it was designed to.
So, assuming you can simply grind off the welds to do it again...
Remove the 9 back plates by grinding them off then swap the two bent plates over so they are on the other side and as a result bowing out not in, adjust the angle of the central plate and re-weld.
Conker II is now beginning to look like a robot and not just a bunch of parts. Uprights are in and fitting nicely, motors are on and its got enough structure for me to be able to lay out the other parts in their final positions; see http://teameventorizon.imgur.com/all/.
There are also some comparison pictures of Conkers 1 & 2. Conker II is 80mm narrower than the original in its main structure but will actually be 100mm wider when the armour panels are on.
Binky has gone back to be re-welded free of charge but it doesn't solve the design flaw inherent in the design which is entirely down to me. The armour and base don't overlap and as a result the robot doesn't hug the ground like it should leaving it with a lip on all edges. We have several solutions for this but no idea which will work.
looks very impressive so far