Cycling batteries, failsafe question
The Failsafe neutral should be in the middle .. they shouldnt be that hard to set as long as your receiver isnt producing a string of valid but random signals when the transmitter is off.
The voltage rises on my charger as well ....... its fine.
The jerkyness is more than likely interference of some sort ( the source can be difficult to pin down ) and the FS1s will have a limited dampening effect ....rejecting bad signals.
Cycling batteries, failsafe question
yet another question, dont know if anything can be done about it but...
i use a drill motor with chuck to power the lifter, the threaded bar is secured in the chuck but this can sometimes come undone, is there anything that can done to prevent this?
i thought about dril a hole through chuck and threaded bar then bolting it in place, good idea or not?
thanks alex
Cycling batteries, failsafe question
i seem to have sorted the failsafe issue by taking out the failsafes, seems to failsafe fine/better without them.
Cycling batteries, failsafe question
Your speedos might have one built in .....but leave one on the lifter.
(Message edited by woody on August 27, 2007)
Cycling batteries, failsafe question
Drilling a hole through the chuck and rod and running a bolt through should be fine for securing the threaded rod - just make sure the hole is a maximum (less might be better) of half the width of the threaded rod, just to reduce the risk of weakening the connection
Cycling batteries, failsafe question
Id advocate getting someone to add a drop of weld between the chuck and the rod... one tack on each chuck jaw.... It will still be possible to remove the threaded bar by sawing or grinding thru the weld.
Cycling batteries, failsafe question
i will ahve to try the drilling option as of the time issues, i do have one on my lifter that doesnt work fine without one:)
thanks alex