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Yes Dom, it does. and if left for a while without running it does seize. The 400V is for the brakes as I said.
I looked at your pis. Its all the same stuff.
BTW, your old TNC 151 was a 4 axis controller. All you were missing as the drive units.
Mike.
Mike: The tnc was blown as was the spindle drive the price of getting those repared/replaced alone was equal to the cost of an entire retrofit; thus why i chose that option.
Its going to be good though as everything is being done properly. Removed the spindle motor and took it to a specialist and they cleaned out all the carbon dust, skimmed/undercut the commutator, replaced the brushes etc... That reminds me one more thing that definatly is 3 phase is the blower motor on the back of the spindle motor. They have made a capacitor based phase conversion circuit to make that work off single phase.
Thanks gary, I hadnt thought about that. When under power it would be fine, but as its gravity powered in the race i think i will go for separate axles. (one per wheel).
Last year I tried to make my kart skid steer. I figured with really narrow wheels with quite low friction I might be able to get away with it. No such luck though. As soon as i stopped one wheel, all the others stopped too!
Dom, you may wish to use wind power in your favour. If you made the floor pane like an aerofoil, you could use the resulting lift to reduce your drag.
just a thought.
just a small point, on a properly set up gokart, the solid axle works by actually lifting the inside rear wheel, not by spinning it. the best way to get this effect in your soapbox is to use an inclined front kingpin, so that turning the steering wheel moves the wheels slightly up and down as they move side to side, lifting one off the floor. this allows you to wiggle your inside rear in the air, even when static, if you get it right. this lets you go around a corner with a solid rear axle.
James, I do believe that MacLaren are looking for you.
Mike
they had their chance mike :)
Im struggling to find a cheap but effective brake solution for this soapbox.
Ideally Id like to go for disc brakes, but they seem to be prohibitively expensive. A front & rear brake disc set-up for a mountain bike seems to start at about £100 on ebay. Is there a cheaper way of doing disc brakes, or an alternative that will be just as simple and nearly as effective ?
Last year I used bike wheels and was able to use the V/caliper brakes that came with the bike. This year I want to move away from the bicycle wheel idea as they have to be supported from both sides which means the chassis has to be much larger , heavier and less rigid than it would be for use with wheels supported from one side only.
Does anyone have any suggestions for building/obtaining a cheap but simple and effective braking system ?
what wheels are you using ?
the traditional soapbox brake is a wooden lever that acts directly on the tyre... if you fitted two you could have tank steering!
get that rotten constrictor thing off your profile pic, and put up a pic of your racer