Need Help

The only reason I would be building the robot would to eventually come over there , But I guess it would not be too hard to change the radio & reciver right?
I see in the instructions reference to crystals being excessable, are these the chips to change the frequecies so both operators dont have the same freq.? Does this happen often. And as for the removible links , I see in some of the fights that the links can become disloged, is there a better link that can be used or is this a standard unit that has to be on the outside of the robot ?

Is Killercarrot a robot? if so when are you going to be in the arena so I can watch for you?
sorry for all the qwuestions but being new to this Im going to keep asking them.
I check all the Robot forums each day and Im learning a lot.
I just designed the tracks Im going to be useing and I dont think Ill have a problem with them coming off or someone getting under them.
I know I have been told I should build a wheeled robot first but my back ground in tracks goes way back to when I was a Tank machanic in the army. I have in my yard more tracked viechiles than any one else in my area including a For Model TT Tracked Armor Truck . its like a half track. Went to town today in it we have 18 of snow on the ground.
Love the looks I get. So this is one of my tracked reasons for building a track robot.

Thanks again for the help.

yes Reciever crystals swap out to prevent overlaps of frequency. I use a selection from 40.675 to 40.975. RW specify a minimum of 3 sets, and you have to be able to swap them quickly.
The crystals are simple push fit affairs, and you need a matching Rx Tx pair, costing about £10. Radio gear can be swapped, but its not inexpensive to use only if you visit the UK, though when added to the cost of shipping to the uk, travel etc, I guess it comes out pretty minimal.
I would be more concerned about bringing over a crated machine,swapping the radio gear and running it without proper set up.

removable links are easily steadied with a little tape on one side, this isnt enough to stop the link being pulled if it needs to be, but does stop things rattling loose.

Killercarrot is a robot (slaps back those who would argue the point), and was aired last week, heat F, where we drove badly, but lost well.
Its been said before killercarrot flies well
piccies of the carrot if you follow links on the worthing live event section (its the orange one).

Note that converting a 75MHz set to 40MHz generally requires more than simply changing the crystal, and some makes dont convert.

You will need to use 75 for testing at home or risk jamming frequencies used for some other purpose (or being jammed, which you may consider a worse problem...), and aquire 40 for competition in the UK.

That tracked truck sounds great!

http://photos.bravenet.com/163/947/593/6/8254F85518.jpghttp://photos.bravenet.com/163/947/593/6/8254F85518.jpg

this is a picture of one of the trucks in the snow

that last link didnt work so heres another
http://www.ttparts.net/pic48317.jpghttp://www.ttparts.net/pic48317.jpg
I just want to say thank you to everyone that is helping me with this robot.

is ther a way to post pictures tight here in the posts??

Mark,

I admire your tracked vehicle, and I wish you luck with your design.

The few tracked vehicles that I have seen on Robot Wars have suffered from damaged tracks and loss of mobility very quickly. Superior pushing power is not worth much when you have lost one of your tracks. The drive on tracked vehicles is relatively heavy, and the engineering is complicated. My view is that you need that weight for armour, but you are clearly an expert, so.....

I have been thinking I might just build two different robots one on tracks one on wheels and see which works better. Then I also have something to battle against before going against an oponent.
I will just have to see which is better to design and work with , Trail and error I guess is the way to go. Your all so lucky iover there to have a place to gather and test your robots against others. I will have to find others here in this area that have them also, but it looks like most of the compition will be on the west coast , a long way from here.
Ill keep you all informed.

Hi
This is not related to Marks question, didnt want to start a new discussion. Im trying to measure the voltage to a motor that is being acelerated by a PRO 120A controller. The voltmeter is in parallel with the motor. Im getting really wierd readings. Anyone know what im doing wrong? I think it may be due to the pwm of the controller but am not sure.

Unless you give full throttle, the voltmeter will show an average value of the PWM signal.

Have you tried using an oscilloscope?