I will be very interested in seeing how this combination of motor and wheels get on. Lots of picture!! It might be the way I will go with my first bot..Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Deathly
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I will be very interested in seeing how this combination of motor and wheels get on. Lots of picture!! It might be the way I will go with my first bot..Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Deathly
Life! Embryonic life but life none the less.
The ESC arrived and though either the soldering iron I bought is awful or my soldering skills are, I managed to get battery connected to ESC connected and talking to RX talking to TX. I know for many this is a simple task, and the working half an hour but for me it's an accomplishment.
Attachment 7388
Attachment 7389
Link confirmed lights on - happy days.
Pickup wheels tomorrow. Need a castor and a board as a test base. But have those in garage.
Today I got the motors wired up. The wheels look quite good, really solid things. Only issue is the bore is 13mm too big for any nuts I had lying around so I had to improvise and use some expanding cavity bolts. They don't stop them wobbling but allow me to see the spin. Wired it up all up my garage (it's freezing! can see my breath)
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Attachment 7391
Test run was OK. The Sabertooth mixer is doing the job in that its combining the channels for variable turns, opposite rotation for on spot circling, brake works well too. But the motor speeds seem to differ quite a bit. Thought it may be the gearing setting but they were both set on screwdriver and speed 1. When warmer and I have more light i will try a few more settings. But would appreciate any advice. Is this normal? Is it something I can fix on the TX? One thought I had was that one is running in reverse (compared to normal) and one is running forward. Could this be a factor?
https://youtu.be/4-jMRON4yR4
I also use a Sabretooth 2x12 and I've not had this issue so far. Have you tried trimming the Tx? That can usually iron out some issues.
No not done anything yet. So it's not unusual then?
Need to get my transmitter manual out and watch some youtube videos.
I guess the transmitter could have different values or ramps on each axis too. Will have to check all these things.
Any tips on calibration? How do you ensure one rotation on one drive is matched by another. By eye may work OK at low speed but at 700rpm its going to swerving about like a cat being chased by a dog.
Most robots, or at least my two(both running sabretooth ESCs), needed adjusting. The ESC usually does most of it for you, but are you sure switch 5 is up? Because that controls the auto calibrate and my robots have it turned on. If that doesn’t work, try nudging the nubs around the control sticks to trim it. It’s just a case of trial and error.
Dip 5 is down and off. This was as per the instructions in the Haynes Manual.
The recommendations were as follows:
1 - Mixed - ON
2 - Exponential - ON
3 - Lithium - ON (recognises 4 cells)
4 - Ramping - OFF
5 - Auto Calibrate - OFF
6 - Timeout - OFF
That's how I set them - but will definitly try your advice
If that doesn’t work, adjusting the trim seems like the only option left but that will probably sort it. Hope it goes well anyhow!
Thanks Theo that seemed to work. However I have trouble getting axles in my wheels. The internal diameter of the bore is 13mm the max bit size in my drill motors is 10mm which I only discovered this after buying some nice M12 bolts and packing with PTFE tape to fit them nice and snug. So I am still unable to do a full test.
This picture is of the M12 bolts
Attachment 7396
So as I said the aim of the project was to get a rolling chassis, so I am not quite there but so, so very close. I cut a base plate from some hardboard used some jubilee clips to fix the motors, picked up a castor wheel from B&Q for a couple of quid. It moves! It's a bit rough and ready But as already mentioned due to to having to fudge the axles not very well. If I apply any power quickly they just spin. Need to fix this. Perhaps I can find a reducer,I had no luck in B&Q or Screwfix.
Attachment 7395
This is the same problem I have at the moment; the wheel bore being that ever so bit big. Tape has worked ok for me in testing, but won’t stand a chance in combat, plus the motors also just spin if I suddenly apply power. I’d suggest Banebots wheels but they only do awkward American measurements to my knowledge. Smaller wheels might work better if you can sacrifice the ground clearance, around 100mm would work better and reduce the motor spinning freely. If it’s just for testing, though, this setup should do for now but I’d advise you to fully modify them (locking down the clutch mechanism) for combat but that’s for another day.