In other words,
a.Is it feasible to run GOLD 24v's on a Scorpion XL,
b.What amperage do 18-24v batterys have? I've found from 2a to 15a, does this depend on the mAh?
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In other words,
a.Is it feasible to run GOLD 24v's on a Scorpion XL,
b.What amperage do 18-24v batterys have? I've found from 2a to 15a, does this depend on the mAh?
I would recommend victors because you are very unlikely to need a replacement :). As for batteries, the current is the mAh ratings. You can buy 12-24v packs ranging from 800mAh to 4000mAh (0.8 amps - 4 amps for an hour). Satanix was using an 18v 3300 mAh pack of NiMH cells. It lasts me 2 fights if I'm not ragging it around, and I am running speed 900's.
OK, I'll probably have to get Victors. Better get quality now to save later. I know someone who runs a battery manufacturers, and they have a range of batteries. I'd be looking something around 18-24 volts, 5-20 amps, and a mAh of 3-4 thousand?
My concern with the Victor is it always runs 10% power at least, doesent that make robots awkward to drive?
sigh, mah are the same as amps!
mah= milliamps/hour
Ah= Amps/hour
3.3ah pack is the same as a a 3300mah pack
Whoops, well thats one more thing I can't get wrong next time!
Does the 10% lowest output on the victor affect fights much?
Not really.
The number of ampere a battery can deliver is dependant on the Ah / mAh rating times the maximum current draw C.
a 1ah battery with a 5c mark can deliver 5*1=5A at most
Thanks for all the info, I've got a slightly different question now.
I'm moving onto the drive, what do most people to mount the motors and for custom gear boxes? I'm looking at buying a load of HDPE, it's cheap stuff. I've looked at various build diaries, but can't find enough relevant information.
George
Use a hole saw drill bit to mount the motor if you need to and I think the Golds have screw holes to mount from the front. Can't really remember now.
As for the second part of your question, I am confused, do you mean thicknesses of HDPE?
Team RCC feathers use the MSR 12-XX gearboxes (gearratio 4.5 or 6 to 1). Simple 1 stage dead axle setups. Steel gearbox plate with 5 holes in it. Speed 900 or equivalent. 12 or 15mm axle, bronze or whitemetal bushings. HDPE wheels.Quote:
Originally Posted by roketrhino900
http://users.telenet.be/P3/Mario/Alex%20Finished.JPG
Our new feather, Hannibalito 4, uses the Gimsons. I bolted these in a steel 40*40*2 L section as part of the T frame (another constant in the Hannibalito's)
Quote:
I'm looking at buying a load of HDPE, it's cheap stuff. I've looked at various build diaries, but can't find enough relevant information.
George
High Density Poly Ethylene. Lighter than water. I use for calculations 0.97 kg dm³.
Very tough, virtualy unbreakable, but it can stretched untill breached.
But also soft, can be worked with wood-working tools.
The advantage here is that spinners slice a cut in it, and doesn't transfer the force as readely.
There is no glue for it.Paint peels off. Most chemicals don't even damage it. Only heat, intense UV and Benzene/Toluene/Xylene do that.
Due the softness, threading it is not optimal. Coarse woodscrews do the job, but are weak points. Ancient woodwork methodes that don't use nails or screws (dovetails, hole and dowel) are applicable with very good results. Pity there ain't a lot of good carpenters around here.
You can weld it with hot air, but the welds are weak points as these become a tad brittle. I learned to back up welds with angled metal combined with bolts and nuts.
Normal color is black or white, but colored in depth material is not unheared off.
For feathers.
For frame/monocoque 8mm is the thinnest I would use. The softness gives it a lot of flexibility. Polycarbonate is better in that respect.
10mm thickness protects against most spinners, 20mm seems unbreachable.
5mm is a fantastic dust cover. Team RCC uses it for bottom armor.