Looking good already. You putting it in with spinners again?
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Looking good already. You putting it in with spinners again?
Can't you just replace the wooden slats?
Yeah Tom, I'm going to use it in full combat again. Last time it was a little too fast for the amount of control we had, so it often hit the spinners unnecessarily and took on damage, but the voltage will be 19.2V, down from the 24V used at the champs (that was a borrowed pack) so it should be more controllable to prevent this happening while still having a bit of a kick to it.
Gary, yeah I plan on just getting a couple of strips of wood to replace the slats, the frame has still got some abuse left in it :)
looking cool jamie, be interested to see how much force u get out of that mechanism
since all pinsors weapon mech and claws are fudged im gettin ti claws made by kenny at some point and im going to do away with the actuator for the same kind of mechanism - usin the motor,gearbox and threaded rod off a 1.5 ton electric car jack to get some propper force into the claws.
once i've mastered the design, will rebuild pinsor towards the end of the year to get it in weight and build it more compact etc
Nice, and then I'll come along and copy your design again :proud:
Sounds like it'll be a mighty improvement anyway. I don't run my actuator at the same voltage as you do but there's just no power in it regardless, so I reckon motor/threaded rod is the way to go. I'm thinking Speed 900 , gear reduction, then threaded rod as I don't want too much force in it, otherwise the chassis will start to fail and I can be bothered to rebuild that.
Pinsor with ti claws and a 1.5ton mechanism should be awesome. Is that planned mechanism the same type of setup as what powers the lifter Tom made for the MW?
yep, i bought another car jack a while ago after tom gave me voodoo and i was um-ing and ar-ing about what to do with it, was gonna repair voodoo at first but thats been put aside for now at least, then was gonna make a vert crusher with it but then decided theres not much point in building a new robot if the ones i have already arn't very good lol so shud work on them instead.
and little hitter in particular has got me so many times now i wana be able to actually get a bite onto it lol
only problem is if the max force is reached in the screw mechanism the gears in the gear box end up breaking which is what happened to the car jack tom put in voodoo because he wound it down too far, will have to see how it handles it
Update
Got some more done to Kaizer today. Finished off the lifter mechanism bar one bolt that I need to buy tomorrow so should hopefully be able to give it a test then. Haven't got it all wired up yet but only got a few more mechanical bits and pieces to do before that.
How it's looking so far, managed to re-use the lid as well, with a bit of trimming:
[attachment=0:xlaiw602]k3_build (47).JPG[/attachment:xlaiw602]
I had borrowed the batteries out of Carcinus to use for testing, thereby giving 19.2V but this meant that if I wanted to run both robots at the same time I would have to buy another two packs eventually. So in keeping with the current parts recycling philosophy that I'm trying to employ, I've taken a bit of a step backwards technology-wise and opted for some SLAs that have been sitting about to use in the robot. Two 6V, 4.5Ah batteries linked in series for 12V. They have similar dimensions to the Ni-mh packs except for being slightly taller but that works out as an advantage for when it comes to securing the batteries in place.
[attachment=1:xlaiw602]k3_build (48).JPG[/attachment:xlaiw602]
The drills are 16.8V so they will be undervolted, but they have a top speed of 1000rpm as opposed to the standard 550rpm drill so the robot should still be quite nippy. The lifter drill is 9.6V so it will be slightly overvolted, which should give a nice level of extra speed and power. A full lift of the forks takes a few seconds now (compared to 20 seconds for the old actuator unit) and the distance travelled by the nut on the threaded rod is a mere few inches for full travel so the forks will hopefully be more effective this time round.
Aim to get a bit of a test run in tomorrow so will see how the SLAs cope with it.
looks gd Jamie
as ever one of the most compact fws i have seen :D
if you can do a video of it working that would be cool, and where did you buy those 16.8v drills from??? didn't think they came in that voltage???
also about your batteries i have a number of old drill batteries about which i really could do with selling/passing on as you seem to be 'skint' i can do a good price :proud: :proud: :proud: :proud: :proud:
well done
alex
Thanks Alex. Yeah I do like to make things compact sometimes, then usually regret it later when I can't fit everything in :crazy:
I'd like to get a video up of it running about; I'm going back up to Glasgow for uni tomorrow so I might not have time to video it just now but I'm done with uni on 5th May ( :proud: ) so will have plenty of time then to sort out a vid.
The drills are a bit of an odd voltage yeah, they're the big bunch of drills I bought off eBay a couple of years ago now and they were mostly hammer drills, which I think is why they were a slightly unusual voltage.
I should be alright for battery cells, I've got a fair few old drill packs lying about too but they tend to be in the order of 1.2Ah which isn't a lot. I like to go for a minimum of about 3.5Ah in battery packs to make sure run-time is sufficient.
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