https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_Ge...ature=youtu.be
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Very nice, cool head phones too :D
be good to see it at the champs
Sennheiser HD 380's, bought them for doing composition on my music A level, amazing things!Quote:
Originally Posted by calumco
That's awesome. Is it all finished?
What's it armoured in Alex?
It's an arena, not a runway.
(quote from George Francis, techchecking Project One)
Its only missing the LED strip for the drive which just plugs into the RX so that's a 3 minutes job. Besides that she is ready!Quote:
Originally Posted by harry hills
Side's are 4mm Hardox 650, top and bottom are 3.6mm Grade 5 Titanium, back is 20mm of Alumec 89. Front is 11'000 rpm of spinning Hardox 650.Quote:
Originally Posted by SamO
Yes, it does sound like its trying to take off. It was blowing dirt and leaves against the garage doors which were about 3m away from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by maddox10
How much does it weigh? That armour sounds dayum heavy!
I need to find out but I have no scales that can go up to that weight. But CAD says it should be around 13.5kg now I have actual weights for all the parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by MicroGravity100
Don't trust CAD; I weighed everything in Mr Mangle down to .1 grams and its still 50 grams from the real weight. Unless you modelled every cable tie and solder joint, CAD is just an educated guess. Excellent video BTW, C3 is looking very threatening! Does it drive inverted?
Front end is 8mm Gr5 Ti. Eat your heart out!Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
you checked the data logging Alex? Be interesting to see the start-up current, and amp draw at full speed...
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps008f3d90.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...ps0fad1a24.jpg
Its been a while but finally things have settled after the champs and I have been able to sit down and examine both robots.
Binky was in a fit state after the champs to also do fleet, basically because she never really fought. At the champs one of the bulkheads broke, a thin walled section that held in the weapon bearing finally broke. This has been replaced with a 8mm thick plate, which is partly recessed into the original hole, that we got welded on. Its a little too thick to get all the needle runners in so we will skim it off and she will be as good as new.
Binky was also fitted with 8 small magnets this year, positioned around the wheels. This seems to have help reduce the moments where she waggles one side in the air, and makes driving her much easier.
However, something has happened that I never thought possible. The massive disc has cracked, probably all the way through. This is at the thick rim section which is a massive 25mm by 20mm of solid D2 tool steel. When we actually looked up D2's properties it turns out its about as tough as cheese (exaggeration but you get the idea). The Americans favourite S7 is around 6 times tougher than D2. D2 is also only around 8% harder than S7, the case hardening did help but it seems that may have been its undoing allowing the crack to propagate all the way round and then into the material.
My thought of when this happened was the gladiator. When Binky's weapon belt snapped Galactus drove straight into the stationary disc, probably hitting it so hard that it deformed and snapped. We are going to attempt a repair by grinding down deep where the cut is and then filling the resulting groove with a massive weld, but this disc may have had it.
However, this does mean I can design her a new Disc! I have several special designs in mind for various materials and robots so watch this space!
Now, Conker 3 was mechanically OK after the champs. Everything functioned but from the massive hits it dealt out and received she isn't going to be running for a while.
Issue 1 is that the weapon itself is about as square as a banana. I hit massacre's bar so hard that not only did I bend his up at around 30 degrees but also twisted my own weapon. This resulted in the bearings on one side exploding every match after that; tapered rollers do not like being off angle! I will have to get a new, stronger weapon cut and I will be using deep grooved bearings from now on: much cheaper and more willing to be misaligned.
Issue 2 is the damaged caused in one hit by 720, snapping the rear bar and twisting the Hardox armour. It couldn't have been any worse really. The armour was never designed to take a hit in that direction and it was at the perfect height for 720 to hit it at full force. The robot actually flexed so much in the hit that my weapon hit the bulkhead, taking a thin chunk off one side. It even had enough force to turn the holes in the titanium into ovals but that's not a problem when I cinch all the CSK bolts up tight.
Once the Hardox is bent back into shape and I have machined a new rear bar (I am definitely going Grade 5 Ti) she will be ready to fight again.
Unbelievably the 3D printed drive system survived the entire event unscathed! Nothing broke! Given it saved me around 200g in aluminium pulleys and wheel mounts I am defiantly keeping that for next year. As for the 3D printed battery mount, I might have another stab at it. I may try wrapping it in fibreglass or dipping it in some kind of resin with fibres in to prevent it from cracking along the build lines. The alternative is welding a Titanium one directly to the base plate, much stronger but far more permanent if I have to modify it.
Overall, it could have gone much better but at least this time I am not doing a total rebuild on Conker like the previous 2 years. Conker 3 is a far better machine than the other two, and once I get all the kinks ironed out I am sure I can get her seeded. The same goes for Binky, but after everything that happened this year nothing is out of the question once a fight starts!
Sorry to hear about the disk fracture - D2 is a wear resistant steel with really poor impact resistance, although I never heard about the 6x comparison to S7 before. Case hardening would only have helped to promote fracturing by raising the surface hardness and welding it up will likely just delay the inevitable. The best options are to get a softer disk in some type of Hardox or to go all out on an S7 disk that will last longer than wear steel but will cost a fortune. The S7 beater in Mr Mangle cost around $700 USD back in 2007 and its WAY smaller than Binky's disk
We are looking at one disc made in Stainless steel for machines with plastic or aluminium armour, and another disc made of a steel called H13 for Hardox and Titanium machines. We have various treatments we could do on the part once it is machined
The exact details of the 6x refers to impact toughness in a Chappy C-Notch test, (ft-lbs) where D2 comes out with around 20ft-lbs and S7 around 120 ft-lbs. H13 is up at 145 ft-lbs.
When looking at Rockwell hardness:
D2 = 63
S7 = 58
H13 = 52
There is a distinct trade off between Impact Toughness, Hardness and wear resistance. H13 has the highest toughness, but the lowest harness. D2 is the opposite and S7 sits in the middle. The disc needs to be hard so it doesn't deform but if it cant take the shock loadings of a hit then its just going to snap. This is just one very expensive balancing act.
Simple solution , Hardox 650.
If hardox 650/extreme blades can cut rebar concrete like a candybar or hardox 450 like a piece of cheese grade ali, it will do the job for most applications, and if it's not something something, that's brittle.
The only problem with using pre-hardened steel like Hardox is machining it like the broken disk; you can waterjet the profile but cutting the tapered tooth and the thin spokes would be difficult. Waterjetting a thinner disk is easy enough, but you will have lower KE for the same weight.
Comparing H13 and S7 steel, the S7 has the impact resistance needed in a KE weapon and the trick to getting the most out of it is to NOT harden it to the max. The US guys harden to RC 50 to 54 and that gives it even more toughness. Another critical thing is to use a heat treater who is familiar with the steel - I made a part in S7 and had a local shop do the heat treating. It came back super brittle and I am pretty sure they didn't anneal it properly, if at all.
To add to that bit, on my old bar spinner Moros I had a 3" x 3/8" x 28" S7 bar spun by a short mag through a 2:1 right angle box. Besides a bit of mushrooming at the tip, I never had a problem with the bar failing.Quote:
Originally Posted by overkill
A few videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO8XSH21tzU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SK1zZOtwIuk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HoHERDQgZwo
Great videos Mike! Are they from Motorama? I am seriously thinking about going next year.
Love the overhead and same about wanting to go to Motorama!
Yeah, those are from Motorama.
Nick is right. We want to shape the disc after it has been cut so using Hardox is out as you can't machine it.
It also seems that S7 is hard to come by in the UK. We have contacted around 8 different suppliers and only 1 said they could source it if we needed it where as most can get H13. That said we only need it once and we have almost a whole year to get it done.
That is a good point about the hardening. I suspect most companies in the UK will know how to treat H13 and not S7 even if they are very similar.
And Motorama is on my list too. I was eye balling Moros as the coire design of Binky at one point.
There is a Euro equivalent to S7 named W-nr 1.2357. I also found some alternate names that might be used in Europe: ASTM A597, ASTM A681, UNS T41907
Ah yes, that long numbered one. My dad found that the other day but we couldn't find a datasheet on it.
Hardox can be machined. The 450 I can do in my own workshop. Not friendly for the tools, and HSS cutters are for the garbagecan after the work.
The 650 can be machined with high end machines and cutters, and if that ain't good enough, spark erosion is another option.
And, if the design doesn't fit the materiaal, redesign is fairly cheap.
You could get the KE back with a hardox disc quite easily. You get say 12mm thick 650 cut to form the main disc, spokes, and teeth, with a bolt pattern around the rim, and then ~5mm steel of any kind, and put a circle of it around the outside on either side, bolted on. The result is a strong, cheapish disc with massive KE and a plenty tough enough tooth. I will likely experiment with that sort of thing, maybe for next year.
540's beater was waterjet from 25mm hardox... the edges did taper slightly but still good enough for a robot... im told some waterjet companies have a pivoting jet to compensate for the taper if your bothered.
Correct, the firm I work with for laser and watercutting has a 2.5D watercutter, meaning they can cut angled sides.
Main point, it's a straight cut.
Main disadvantage, the machine is booked solid, so it's premium £££ to get stuf cut on it.
I have managed to get the Castle Link software working so I have uploaded Conker 3's data for you all to examine.
The different switch ons are as follows
1: Direction Test (Low voltage)
2: Interrupted spin up (No spin up)
3: Test Video
4: Tech-Check
5: Flow & Kaizer
6: Massacre and Drumroll
7: Galactus & Nightfury
8: 720
I have just uploaded the interesting ones (IMO): Current, Temperature and RPM at the output.
The key points though are...
Maximum Current: 254.7A
(The average given is useless because of all the stops and starts, unless it ignores those)
Attachment 4559
Maxiumum Speed: 11'096 RPM (Oh yeah!)
(It seems to happy sit up in the 10K range when its not hitting anything. You can see where the big hits happened where the RPM dives)
Attachment 4560
Maximum ESC Temp: 55.6 Degrees C
(Not overly interesting but just surprising considering that it was sat next to 3 straining batteries in a metal box!
Attachment 4561
Going to have some time on my hands for a while so I thought I would get one of our pneumatic machines up and running.
One part I got my hands on was a dud 1Kg Powder fire extinguisher like this one: http://www.safelincs.co.uk/shopimage...r-warranty.jpg
Attachment 4592
I was planning to use it as a buffer tank on a LP system, 10 Bar Max. The dial on the extinguisher runs from 10Bar to 12Bar in the green and up to 16Bar where it goes red again. I reckon it will be safe to use as a buffer since I will be operating under its normal storage pressure of 12Bar and quite a way under the dangerous 16 bar limit but experienced minds many know better.
This will be powered by a 12Oz Paintball bottle and run to a small 40mm Bore, 75mm Stroke ram.
Attachment 4593
No idea what shape the robot will be yet but since the axe bot is proving difficult to pack how I like I will try something a little easier first without the fiddly gear mechanism.
I'm assuming it's a feather by the size 9f the ram, in which case that fire extinguisher is going to be a bit too big, too heavy for use, it would weigh close to 3.5kg. For comparison Flow's bottle weighs just 600g empty and 1.2kg filled. I'd suggest to just use a paintball bottle and regulator setup, much simpler and lighter. If you don't want to get into fiddly gearing, I'd imagine it'll be a LP flipper?
Managed to find all the parts.
Attachment 4594
I got the size wrong is a 1kg powder extinguisher and it weighs 250g as it stands with nothing attached.
I am not sure what kind of flow controller I have, but I do need to change the solenoid as it is 230V AC at the moment.
Also discovered I have 2 brand new and unused GR01's. Not a bad find.
One possible layout...
Attachment 4595
Looking at it I think that's a double acting ram... is this the stuff from Hells Angel? And by the layout I'd say it's a flipper?
Yes its meant to be a flipper, keep forgetting to say that.
Yes, the ram is double acting but I will only be using it as single acting. No, none of this is from Hells Angel, that's all in the garage.
If you're running it single acting with bungee return you don't need that monster 5/2 valve. All you need is a LP 2/2 with high flowrate.
I figured. Got a link to something that will do the job?
I am also planning to widen the lower port for better flow in and then make a new insert for the base with a hole in it to act as the dump. Not very efficient but light weight.
With that type of ram ( both end caps are retained by circlips if I'm not mistaken) you could put a hole in the bottom endcap and fit a 1/2bsp QEV. Then you would not require high flow/large port solenoid valves to operate it. A small (1/8bsp) 5/2 valve will work fine.