Thats pretty neat, how are you expecting it to act compared to the CO2 system?Quote:
Originally Posted by graeme
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Thats pretty neat, how are you expecting it to act compared to the CO2 system?Quote:
Originally Posted by graeme
Sadly, I've had to withdraw doorstop as some parts won't arrive in time (even though I was promised they would!). best of luck to everyone!
Is that a solenoid?
That's a shame :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Danjr1
What parts do you need? I'm sure someone who will be there will have suitable stuff.
Custom made 5mm steel wedge and two machined HDPE wheels :lol:
Hopefully will make it to burgess hill!
8kg exactly according to my scales. Oh the joys of wooden robots. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by psycho_fling
Okay, not many of us will have them lying around in our spares box :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Danjr1
But looking at the last picture of Doorstop that you posted, could you not just put some tyre tread round your wheels and some more HDPE at the front (on the vertical bulkhead, rather than in the shape of a wedge) to absorb the majority of impacts?
Im sure you could get doorstop working, maybe not quite in the way you intended but should be fine
Yes its a 26KW solenoid, in theory it wont be as good as the co2 system but havent tested it yet
with the flipper arm on and dont know how long it will last.
A while back I was looking into Solenoid alternatives to CO2 but ran into problems with stroke length being too short and the fact that the solenoid loses power as the arm extends further.
What sort of Nm rating has it got? I found I needed something like 2000Nm to contend with a FP flipper system.
Story of your life? :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ-27
I know this is short notice, but the new 12v NiMH charger I bought will only charge up to 2.8v. :uhoh:
I was wondering if anyone (probably best if competing on saturday) could lend me a 12v NiMH charger with a tamiya connector for the day? It would be really helpful, much appreciated.
I'll bring my pro peak for you to use. Which type of tamiya connector are you using, male or female?
Male on the battery. Thanks Dave! :D
Just tested the flipper, it self rights ok, might flip another robot out if its right at the edge of the arena
The stroke is only 38mm and the force should start at 180kg rising to 300kg at the end of the stroke with this design assuming that the lipos can supply it with 500a, may need to test different lipos at some point and increase the wire size and bigger connectors(they were warm after 15 flips).
Just been to the greengrocers to use their scales to weigh Inertia as they are the most accurate ones we can find here is the result
http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/a...Photo-0010.jpg
http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/a...Photo-0009.jpg
Not bad since this is with our heaviest Ni-Mh pack fitted :)
Very nice Will, can't get much closer than that!
Car's packed, we'll be leaving shortly (once I've had some lunch). Good luck to anyone who is still building, and of course good luck to everyone competing. See you all there! :)
Viva la drums! :lol:
14.2kg right now, but it was 14.4 when I first weighed it so its going down ;)
Having some RC issues, hoping someone can advise.
Our £2 V-Tail mixer (the ones that just say v-tail mixer on them) ruins our fail safing. The ESC that has the BEC just refuses to failsafe with the mixer in line. Using Electronize 15a.
Any ideas?
Alternatively we tried the Mixing built into our DX5E, which aside from the half throws is set up so that up and down on the stick is left and right, and left and right is forward and back.
Any one know how to swap this?
Swap the channels or swap 1 motors polarity. If up and down on the stick goes side to side in the robot, one motor is going forward on command, the other is not. Swap that motors wires over.
As for the failsafe, can't offer any insight on that one :(.
its too late now really. id rather do it properly for Burgess Hill then spend the year perfecting and improving the design (i.e. Proper 900 motors, either action electronics or graupner and those 80a ESCs from America)Quote:
Originally Posted by mattsdragons
Having electrical problems as well, one radio set is not working, and the two syrens originally controlling bruiser judders and make the robot uncontrolable, that had been getting increasing worse over time, so bruiser 1 is wired up with two high quality eBay controlers, with the working radio set. And bruiser two is going to be wired up with either the old controlers or servo set up made just before the battle. And I don't know what I could do about the radio gear, I will try and fix it, but if not, it is just another reason not to use bruiser 2.
Possibly a stupid question but is the battery fully charged? Johnny 2x4 started juddering and wouldn't move if it was on a rather low battery.
it seems it is the time for electrcal problems, i have a real problem with ML:
when i push the stick up, or tell both sets of motors to move all i get is a groan. lifter works fine.
when i run either side on its own, its fine and up to power.
any ideas?
It's not the battery, check it with other ones. But it does get even worse when it's flat.
We will probably have some spare speedos with us if u need some. We are bringing loads of spares.
Flow and Diablo ready to go
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...w/IMG_1854.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...w/IMG_1853.jpg
Good luck all, wish I was there to flip you all out the arena and take the title home for the 3rd time.
Good luck to everyone qualifying today!
Should hopefully have both robots finished by tonight and then we'll see you tomorrow.
Robot testing? :roll: What's that?........
Snap!Quote:
Originally Posted by PJ-27
Well a very busy Easter has called me into work. Good luck guys
Just a quick question, can my removable link be my fuse, it's a big blade fuse so is fairly easy to pull apart? And it is already between my battery and everything else?
Here are the rules relating to links.
6.1 Deactivation
All Featherweight, Lightweight, Middleweight, Heavyweight and Super Heavyweight Robots must incorporate
a way of removing all power to weapons and drive systems (systems that could cause potential human
bodily injury) that can be activated easily without endangering the person turning it off.
6.1.1 Removable Link
The main power cut-off MUST be a removable link, which must NOT be in place unless the robot is in
the arena or under the supervision of a technician. A key or switch is not allowed. If there is more than
one link they must be positioned adjacent to each other.
6.1.2 Accessibility
The link must be positioned in a visible part of the robot's bodywork, fitted away from any operating
weaponry or drive, and this position must be clearly marked.
6.1.3 Covers
The link may be fitted under a cover, but the cover must be able to be opened without the use of tools.
6.1.4 Kill Switch
If the robot uses an internal combustion engine(s), the Power cut-off must take the form of a clearly
labelled Kill switch. See Section 7 for further details on engines.
6.1.5 Inverted Link
Robots in the heavyweight and super heavyweight class that are capable of being driven inverted,
having a removable link fitted that is only accessible when the robot is the right way up, must have a
duplicate link fitted in the opposing panel, so as to allow the robot to be disarmed when inverted.
6.1.4 dose not apply to you.
The link is a bit of the main power circuit that can be removed. when it is, the power to the weapon and drive are cut off and the robot is dead.
I think a fuse would qualify if it can be easily removed with out tools.
Same here, just finished wiring it up, still need to re charge my batteriesQuote:
Originally Posted by PJ-27
First day done and dusted with. NST and Beauty 3 are the front-runners at the moment on 12 points. There are one or two on 10 points I think, and several on 9. So 9 may well be the minimum you need to stand a chance of getting through.
Carcinus even managed to get 7 points, which is impressive! But it got 4 points because Chuck was a no-show, so that helped a bit. :)
Just wait until I get there. :P
Have to ask, what was the aforementioned weapon you designed specifically for your match with Chuck?
Had a great day today, one of the best events I've been to in a while! It was nice only having to worry about one robot, too. Had fun, even though Metalbeak didn't perform perfectly and the weapon didn't fire for 3 of my whiteboards... Should be sorted out now, thanks to everyone for their help! The new RoboChallenge red wheels really increased the grip and all round performance, although they seem to pick up lots of dust... Won my first fight today, Metalbeak works really well as a pusher surprisingly. Only
got 4 points, but Venom (who replaced Cpt. Scarlett ICYDK) was far too low, and the flipper doesn't close fast enough so I ended up in the pit. Beauty 3 flipped me OOTA in about 2 seconds, and my battery connector slipped out and caused power failure in my third fight, so I was out first. I still had fun, but I didn't expect to go very far anyway, and at least I had lots of fun in the whiteboards!
Can't wait for what tomorrow brings, should be awesome!
could anybody tell me where we are supposed to go to at the nec when we first arrive etc etc?
i read it awhile ago but can't find it again.
cheers
What James said earlier:
Quote:
Originally Posted by james...venom
cheers dude, and i look forward to fighting you :)
Likewise! That is, if I survive my match against LS4!