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Ellis, they will but make sure that your setup is rigid. In other words that your work isn't going to vibrate and I would recommend only using them with a pillar drill or mill on the slowest speed you can.
A few things I found with them,
- They weren't great at hole cleaning and I to manually remove material after the hole got deeper than the diameter of the drill bit.
- The white coolant you would use with a lathe or mill worked best for keeping things cool. I also tried drilling / tapping paste but this didn't work as well. I think the coolant assisted in removing material.
- I was drilling 10mm hole and they actually seemed to prefer no pilot hole. I was initially drilling a pilot hole with a 5mm before opening it to 10mm but 10mm straight seemed to work best.
- Once the diamond head has gone then bin them, they are useless at that point.
- I had a 5mm bit snap off in the hardox (was drilling 20mm thick hardox 400). Couldn't remove it with pliers etc but the 10mm bit just went straight through the broken bit in the hole no bother.
- I quickly nackered my first 10mm bit but the second one got 80mm of hardox drilling done before it was junk.
- They are good but at the same time, not being able to sharpen them means that they have less of a life than a cobalt bit which can be sharpened on a bench grinder.
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Cheers for the tips Gary, all noted. I only have to drill the 5mm holes into 3.2mm hardox so hopefully chip clearance and the small size of the drill (relative to the fairly chunky drill press I have) should be okay. I bought 3, expecting to burn through them, for £8 all in, so not going to cry if it goes badly.
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Good tips indeed! Will see how it goes :p
Harry, parts from you arrived this morning, they look amazing! Will see how well they fit tonight. I've bought a pair of TZ85's as backup ESC's just incase we don't finish our custom ones this weekend to an acceptable level. I'll be converting them to brushed drive this weekend. I only have one receiver at the moment, should I assume it will break and bring backups? Any recommendations on cheap receivers that do the job?
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We put the mill into the slowest possible speed and then keep applying pressure if you let the tip rub it will heat up and loose its edge. plus keep that white sauce flowing.
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So much to do arghhhhh!!!
https://i.gyazo.com/dab3cbfb08d50af1...56c25df5a1.jpg
Firstly... the ebay seller for all the bolts sent me cap heads when I ordered a mix of counter sunk flats and button heads.... I've re-ordered another load from a different seller, but for now cap heads will do. New ones come on Wednesday. Side/back will be counter sunks with buttons everywhere else.
Secondly, my belts don't fit! Had to order the next size up from belting online, but fear they wont come in time. Will probably search for another shop to buy from just in case.
NONE of the electronics are done yet! Hopefully this won't be the case by tomorrow night :P
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You can always get stuff next day from RS. Although too expensive to ever buy from them unless it's an emergency hah.
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I just tested a 3D printed ninjaflex belt. It worked really well, tons of grip. Will print out a bunch of them (as they may break after a few rounds) and use them as back ups.... fingers crossed the real belts arrive in time though!
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Now that's an interesting use of 3D printing. Need to make sure that you start the perimeter at random points so you don't have a single weak point running up the belt and custom sizes wouldn't be an issue. Not a bad idea that.
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Here is a video of me testing the 3D printed belt at half speed. They seem to work ok, probably not too hard wearing though.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eextp7HjTos
