Pic on Profile of my new feather Ive just started to build yes they are EV Warriors for the Drive
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Pic on Profile of my new feather Ive just started to build yes they are EV Warriors for the Drive
Lookin gd, would be cool to have a feather tanto :) What speed are you aiming for?. What thickness armour are you gonna use, and what size+voltage batts?
I hope your not using those wheels in the pic, youd never get the power down with them, get some ali ones vulced or get some of the big 100/150mm Robochallenge ones from james.
Speed about 15mph should give me good pushing power. Batteries 2 12v 3700 in series. Armour will have to see what weight I have left. Speed controller Sidewinder. No I wont be useing the wheels in the pic probably make my own as they need to be 160mm.
I screw bike tyres on Alphas wheels for grip. Focus/Do It All sell some wheels about 160mm. You using a gear reduction tony?
Yes I use bike tread on Dragonstrike probably do the same on the new one. gear reduction about 4.5 to 1. Ewan if you go to http://www.teamdragon.org.ukwww.teamdragon.org.uk kishar page theres a vid of kishar spinning up its disc using the HTI motors. In fact it got stuck in Eds arena wall at Colchester.
Looks very good. Well I do have two hardox discs and four HTIs to play with :)...
ladies and gentlemen, I shall introduce you one of the toughest FW robots in 2006!
Name: not decided yet
Drive: 2x1½hp+ drills and 3 x 1½ colsons which give top speed of 20km/h
Weapon: electric FLIPPER with 2hp DeWalt (0.075 from down to up position no-load, approx. 400mm of travel. lifting force max. 625N)
Battery: 24v/3300mAh NI-MH
Speed controller: Sidewinder
Armor: 12mm pocketed 6082 T-6 aluminium frame, 3mm welded hardox front armor and 2mm garolite top/bottom, maybe some stainless on top too..
Status: almost fully designed, under construction, will be ready before next summer if everything goes right.
Notes: all the designing, machining and welding will be done by me :)
pictures: http://www.robosota.fi/foorumi/viewtopic.php?t=547http://www.robosota.fi/foorumi/viewtopic.php?t=547
You have to bring that baby to the UK!
And the Netherlands. Looks a serious project JH-Q.
quote:
one of the toughest FW robots in 2006! .... Im not convinced only after being in the arena for awhile will I accept that claim..:lol:.!
Chris - ^_^
I would love to know what brand of drills you are using to claim stats of 2x1½hp+
Assmuing 24v Drills almost 50amps each, with that size of a motor I dont think they could sustain that kind of ampage on a continious basis.
http://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_dewalt.htmlhttp://www.robotcombat.com/marketplace_dewalt.html
DeWalt old style drill motor, 18v
the place i got them from, gave me them for free if i dont tell where they are from. so if you know what brand drill motors they are, keep it your own information :)
Oh well thats peak HP i thought you ment continious Nominal HP so thats not too bad still 63amps, alot of current.
Very nice looking design indeed. Best of luck with the build!
jhq,
Interesting design.
Weve been trying the DeWalt 24V motor/gearbox as a servo to control the position of the tail on Terrorhurtz. Thought I might just share some of the observations weve made so far.
see pics at
http://news.terrorhurtz.com/tailservo/http://news.terrorhurtz.com/tailservo/
The weak point of these gearboxes, as you probably know, is the plastic ring gear of the second stage of the gearbox. The first big hit that the tail took and it disintegrated, as expected.
Dustin provide a replacement, which we havent tried yet, but note that the teeth of this replacement part are just watercut - by no means a nicely machined involute spur gear.
In retrospect I probably wouldnt have bothered with the Dustin high-temp brush housing - it does not locate the brushes very well and in the sort of application we are using the motors, I dont think the brushes should get all that hot.
The plastic gearbox housing has oddly shaped ridges on it (for moulding purposes) and would be quite tricky to make a matching mount for, so we cut the front edge of the gearbox back, to expose 12mm of the final ring gear. This has nice regular splines on it for which it is rather easier to make a matching mount.
Interesting idea in your first drawing of driving the rear arms of the flipper. I think this could work quite well, especially if you dropped the rearmost pivot point right down, below the level of the pivot on the chassis. This would get over the inherant poor initial mechanical advantage when driving the front arms and also eliminate the danger of the rear links going over-centre.
good building
John Reid
http://www.teamhurtz.comhttp://www.teamhurtz.com
(Message edited by terrorhurtz on November 18, 2005)
p.s. I would recommend the Dustin Gear Box conversion kit for 5/8 shaft, though I made my own bearing mount.
nice to hear some experiences about those motors, the most disturbing problem imho is the gearbox front steel piece with roller bearings coming off.
Interesting idea in your first drawing of driving the rear arms of the flipper.
It seemed like a good idea but when i did the maths (with the help of ewan) there was only 4kg of lifting force, most of power was lost because it was trying to move the wrong place so that system wasnt good for lifting/flipping opponents.
btw, what the heck is the cad drawing on your profile? thats some insane designing!
(Message edited by jh-q on November 19, 2005)
I believe John is suggesting something a little different to your first idea, Ill be on msn a little later
Jh-q .......I believe the cad drawing is the tail servo of terrorhurtz...... He gave a link in his post.
Compare the two.
The drawing on my profile was an early design for the tail servo. It was going to costs too much for the custom gears though, so I went for the DeWalt 24V instead.
John
New feather coming on cant do much more till Sidewinder arrives. Latest pic on profile.
wouldnt you be better using nicads with Evs?
Dont Know but cant afford to get any new batteries at the moment them Sidewinders are not cheap
ev are fine on nimh. Ive used em for three years and never damaged a cell.
Looks like its going to be fast and pushy Tony
Yes when I tested the drive I did not get it fully clear of the floor, it was up so it did not move but I thought whats that smell it was the carpet starting to burn from the friction.
microCHIP is coming along nicely Tony, I tested the astro/hardox spinner on Sunday, only at 9v on the psu!! Pulled 23A and went very fast. Might not run it at 24v after all. Maybe just 14.4v.
Made the Ti side skirts today.
Will post a pic soon
23A @ 9V!!!!! bloody hell!! Rob, what have you done?..thats drawing WAY too much current, either your gear ratio is too low or you have very stiff bearings!
Mind you, are you talking about start up load or continious running load?
Scorpion Evilution draws around a 50A peak load on start up reducing very quickly to around a 12A running load.
(and that is for TWO Astroflights!)
That was continous :sad:
The belt was pretty slack too.
No too sure why it was pulling so much. The ratio is 3:1
Rob
Rob,
23A Continous!!!..Nah, cant be that high... Somethings not right there!
If you remove the belt and let the motor run free you should see a load somewhere in the order of 3-4A @12V If you get significantly more than that then first check what the motor draws running in the other direction, Astroflight 940s can be biased to run faster in one direction by adjusting the end cap / brush housing. If they are set up this way and you try to run them the wrong way they use stupid amounts of current and get so hot you will end up smoking it in a very short time.
The motor should come from the factory set for bi-directional use but its always worth checking! You can do this by looking for a small scribe mark on the rear end of the
black motor body and making sure it lines up with a corresponding mark on the gold coloured end cap just in FRONT of one of the brush housings.
If the mark on the body lines up with the mark on the end cap to the SIDE of the brush housing then the motor is set for single direction use.
If you need to change it, e-mail me and Ill tell you the easiest way to do it.
Hope this helps.
Geoff.
23Amps seems ok to me, I dont think that there is a problem as its only 207 Watts and they are rated for 750W Continuous, it depends on how effeicent the motor is running as this will determine the heat generated, and that can be checked holding your finger on it, if you burn it then its too hot :) I just checked a size 17 stepper motor this morning with only 2.4A at 5V and the case temperature of the motor was over 90C.
The motor is fairly warm, as are the heatsinks on it, after running for a minute.
Right Sidewinder has now arrived, it lives. Just doing the mock up of the armour, pick on profile. Because of the weight problems with using Ev,s for the drive most of the armour will be Polypro with Hardox in the spinner zone.
just leave it as it is Tony, Im sure itll be fine :)
Too late just ordered the polypro. Tomorrow will get some more discs for the grinder to start cutting the Hardox.
Latest pic on profile
Name: OverDrive
Wheels: 4x 100mm RoboChallenge blue wheels
Drive: 4x 14.4v cordless drill motors
Power: 2x 8.4v NiCads
Speedo: IBC
Weapons: Interchangeable scoops and wedges
Armour: 8mm Ali for the sides and main sections and 2mm Ali for the top and bottom. Maybe some 5mm Polycarb on the sides too.
Latest pics on profile, the guy who is building the chassis has made it a bit bulkier than we would have liked and Im not quite sure why there are two profiled ends, but Ive been told that will be fixed. Hopefully by next week Ill have some pics of the finished chassis and the scoops.
Critisize away... :wink:
Aj How are you going to mount your drill motors ? A part from that it is looking very cool :)
Quick diagram: http://www.picturevillage.com/photo/data/9db6faeef387dc789777227a8bed4d52/13817_p316944.jpghttp://www.picturevillage.com/photo/...bed4d52/13817_ p316944.jpg
Two ali boxes that clamp around the gearbox and then two screws do down to lock the two in place. Then inside the robot are four small pegs, each one slots into the centre of the wheel to keep it stable. Hard to describe but hopefully it will work. You can see one of the clamps in place in the bottom right of the profile pic.
Side view: http://www.picturevillage.com/photo/data/9db6faeef387dc789777227a8bed4d52/13817_p316946.jpghttp://www.picturevillage.com/photo/...bed4d52/13817_ p316946.jpg
Hope that explains it a bit better :)
In my robot i was going to do something similar , but the design and limited space to work with stopped me doing it , I just made the double d shape of the gearbox and popped it throught , then put a m6 grub screw through the middle of the plastic , i really should post some pic of my bot , but i never do :sad: