No issues, but is your secondary weapon meant to sear our retinas off? That's 3W of light in Binky...
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No issues, but is your secondary weapon meant to sear our retinas off? That's 3W of light in Binky...
Ummm... its just 12V strip LED lighting. Its not meant to be crazy powerful but... I don't know. Really, 3W.
Seems that plan is shot anyway, the parts are not back in to RS until the end of next month and Farnell don't stock them.
EDIT: Is it safe to wire the lights up to just 1 of the packs in the set used to drive the weapon? It would mean the draw was fractionally unbalanced by about 1/4 of a Watt but it would bring the Voltage down to something that I can deal with more easily.
Google the part number; I'm sure I saw some other UK sources.
It probably depends on how you are charging the packs. If you charge them separately, then they will balance out and everything will be fine. If you charge them in series like they were one big pack, then its possible the pack running the LEDs will not get a full charge before the other pack is full. It would still be OK if you balance the packs after charging them
I charge them separately as we only have a 6S charger. When you look at the maths, the LED strips draw 400mA over 1m and I am using less than half that. 200mA in comparison to the idol rating of the motor 2.24A its less than a 10th, and the draw when its spinning the weapon its probably nearer 20A so 100th. In 3 minutes I can't see it off balancing the packs enough to damage them.
Anot other thoughts from people? Have I missed any options?
Simply put Alex no LED = failed tech check.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
Just put 2 24v LEDs in series as Dave said, each one will only get half the voltage so dissipate half the power. It worked fine when I had 2 12v LED strips running off 24v.
You could do as you say and run the LED off just one of the packs, you could then do the same with the other pack with another LED so they both get drained about the same.
Would same principal work if I used 4x 12V LED strips? I don't have any 24V LED's and I don't want to keep going out and spending more and more money when I have parts that already work.
That said I have found a 48V LED which would light up the machine like a christmas tree.
EDIT: If I put a pair of 18 ohm 3W resistors in parralel to the same LED what do I get? The resistance should be the same but the number of watts it can deal with should go up to 6W. Am I right?
No, total resistance drops to 9 ohms due to:Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
1/Rt=1/R1 +1/R2 ...
Ok... I don't want to be playing silly games with resistors so that out.
I can get a 48V LED in with a 2.7 Ohm 3W resistor but with a maximum current of 1A it will be producing 48W of light! Cooling it isn't an issue as I can use the chassis as a heatsink but 48W of light is insane. However because its so simple its very tempting, I just worry it will put even more strain on the batteries.
If its 1A at 48V the is it drawing 1A/h? If so I can live with that.
1A is always 1A no matter voltage, mean if you have a charge of 1A during one hour you have 1A/h, but this is capacity that battery will need to supply.
How will you have 48W passing across a resistor of 3W??
To us, if you have 1A in 48V you is wasting 48W to show your robot have link in?? This is more than a RS550 in continuous work. Redesign this, use a single led 1W with a resistor of 2.5kohm.
The LED in question is designed to be mounted in an array to light up the side of a building, its not really supposed to be used like this but its the only thing I can find at the right voltage.
But I am now, probably, going to be taking power off just one of the batteries to give me 22.2v and 18.5v, much easier to deal with.
Will you use balance connector to take these voltages or use an voltage regulator?
Already thought about use 5V of the TZ85 that you not use BEC? The "out" red wire on esc connector.
If he is using the BEC from the TZ85's, he can use the BEC from the brushless controller to power the light, confirms power going to the speedo.
Exactly what i said David,
Normally who use TZ85 "cut" the red wire from one ESC, he can use this voltage to turn on the light.
If I remember rightly the CC HV ESC's are Opti isolated?
Yup, no HV castle escs come with built in bec's.
Sorry to almost hijack here, but is there a guide for how you'd go about wiring an LED to a bec on a tz85a? Just on account of there only being one wire, not sure how to do it properly...
Do you have a link to the 48V LED? A nominally 50W high voltage LED is made up of strings of LED elements on the same chip and looks something like this:
http://www.a1parts.com/led/Images/led.ht4.jpg
If that is really what you are proposing, its quite dangerous! A 50W LED is about the same as a 250W incandescent light and is blindingly bright - looking directly at it for even a short time is not good for your eyes.
I don't see what the problem is with using lower voltage LEDs off only one battery or with a larger dropping resistor. even if you use a very bright 1W LED, the pack supplying it will only be slightly more depleted after 3 minutes and since you are charging the packs separately, that pack will just take a fraction more charge to be back to full and equal with the other pack.
I looked up the specs. on a 60,000 mcd LED that is unpleasantly bright to look at and from a 22.2V 6S pack it needs a 680 ohm, 1W resistor. Total circuit power dissipation is only 29.3mA, which is totally insignificant. If you wanted to run the LED off 48V, you just need to double the resistance and power rating. The closest common part is a 1.5K, 5W resistor.
To run a LED off any BEC you will connect the LED and a dropping resistor in series between the red (positive) and brown or black (negative) wires of the servo cable. You need to find the specs. on the LED and plug the voltage drop and current consumption into a LED resistor calculator to find the right resistor value to use.
Got to go to work so I haven't read the replies, but I bought a regulator that will drop the voltage to 24V off RS yesterday so I will wire 2 sets of 12V LEDS's in series to give the 24V I need.
Problem solved... sort of.
http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-607-...FernwgodSBIABg
Save you the bother of wiring up 2.
As you all know the draw has been made from the champs and here are Binky and Conker 3's fights with a little thought on each one...
Conker 3 vs Flow vs Kaizer
-Interesting opener. Despite Flow's power I can see C3 inflicting quite a bit of damage to the Titanium. Not sure what Kaizer looks like these days but I am cautiously optimistic I can at least beat it on a judges decision or OOTA it.
-Conker 3 vs Massacre vs Drumroll 2
This will be a fun fight. Get to settle an old score with Drumroll after it messed up Conker 2's MDF armour. If Massacre works I think both C3 and Drummroll will get some serious hits unless one of the vertical take the bar off. Short version: CHAOS!
-Conker 3 vs Galactus vs Nightfury
Get to have another go at Nightfury. Winning with C2 last time by knocking the link out wasn't really how I wanted it to go down. Galactus is going to really make things hard but I believe the additional bite on C3's weapon and higher tip speed will mean Galctus flies and not Conker 3.
-Conker 3 vs 720
This is going to hurt either way. David's driving is amazing and 720 packs a serious punch but C3 has the harder hitting weapon and sloped armour which will make 720 work for a victory.
-Binky vs Ironside vs Hardwired
Ironside is the real threat here in terms of damage. If the bar hits like it looks then Binky could get some serious damage but Binky's newly tipped teeth will go through the Hardox on Ironside and once its upside down its game over. Hardwired 2 is going to be tough to crack. Its thick armour is probably to much for Binky to deal with and its very low front could have Binky going backwards but a few good hits on the side and she should be flying.
-Binky vs 4x4 Toon vs Hatchet
4x4 Toon is either going to have Binky down the put or Binky will be pealing back the blade. No idea what Hatchet is, but I am guessing its an axe some some sort and after LH3 we know Axes cant do much.
-Binky vs Carnicus vs Devils Coach Horse
Another unknown in DCH. Some kind of 4 bar lifer. If it can get under then Binky will have had it but otherwise I can see it earning pleanty of Air-miles. Carnicus is going to be relentless. Even if we bend the claws so they are perpendicular it will just keep pushing and shoving.
-Binky vs Loki vs Hatchet
Another 4 bar lifter with Loki. Same PTO issues as with DCH but again: air miles. Then Hatchet again with the same thoughts: Axe's don't bother Binky.
Looking forward to our fight very much :)
Pretty sure Ironside is just the eight-sided, invertible Hardox box though. The one with the bar last year was IronConkers.
Aha. Haha. Hahahaha. Hahahahahahaha!Quote:
Carcinus is going to be relentless
Assuming it makes it into the arena, it won't be anywhere near a threat. It might ram into you but won't have enough power to push or shove, so you should be fine :p
I wondered if that was the case. If that is true then we may be blunting out nice new teeth on Binky. I hope this Granite Crusher stuff its up to the task.Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueTwoRobots
I was being polite but if you want me to say you will need a new robot and I will buy you a Bin bag than that fine too :-D Seriously though, my Dad would never destroy a machine, only immobilise.Quote:
Originally Posted by RogueTwoRobots
I have to say, I am definitely looking forward to fighting Binky, that will be rather interesting indeed. I'd be surprised if anything can get through the front hardox scoop, but the real danger will come from the potential OOTA. Course, there's Ironside in there too, which could cause me plenty of internal damage too...
Going to be a cracking first ever fight for me though!
You got a Srimech on Conker? Plus, remember the small gouge on the front of Flow was done in 5 hits from Inertia, that shell is quite tough!Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventorizon
Conker 3 is invertible. The design always has been. C1 never got a chance to show it, C2's armour got bent as it was turned over and got stuck. Not a great track record but C3 is a totally different beast and is balanced really well so it should drive nicely too.
As for the damage, Inertia's weapon didn't have the highest RMI or any vertical weapon in the UK, I am sure C3 will leave its mark ;-)
Just looked back through the thread and saw the design, out the arena it is ;)
Hahaha! You thought you were fighting Conker 2? Little Spinner 4 totalled that in its first fight! All 4 gearbox's sounded like salt grinders for the rest of the event and the disc kept getting stuck on.Quote:
Originally Posted by MicroGravity100
Nah, I knew I was fighting C3, just couldn't remember what the CAD looked like!
What about Kaizer? At this rate we will take each other out and it will win. Lets dispatch of the pushy-forky thing first then have a proper scrap!
Quick up date, lots of small things have made a step forwards today.
Got all the Hardox countersunk on Conker 3, weirdly i had better luck with our Dewalt than an industrial pillar drill.. Tough job and I got through maybe 300ml of oil in the process but the CSK bit survived and everything does up nicely. I am a little worried that the top 2 holes are to close to the edge but there is nothing I can do about that now.
The 3D printed battery and electronics mount is in the post of the way from UWE. The Replicator has to much temperature fluctuation and kept warping during the build, pulling the model from the bed. Just goes to show that home 3D printers are no where near as good as a dedicated machine despite their massive growth in popularity.
All the little electronics parts for the power lights and the 2 spare 15mm wide belts for Conker 3's weapon are at the post office, but I will have to wait until Friday to pick them up.
And finally the two new Optipower Ultra packs for the weapon should be in the post tomorrow too. Each is a 6S 2.7Ah 50C pack.
I remembered what everyone said about them being to small for the motor so I double checked the HK 50 stats against the HK 4035 I was originally going to use. The HK 5020 actually pulls 10A less than the HK 4035 with just 90A. The Wattage if the motor is also 200W lower, at 4000W (only 5% but every little helps).
Mathematically, if I used 80% of the 2.7Ah packs (2.16 Ah) in a 3 minute fight I can pull 43A constant, I am not sure what the idol amp rating will be on the weapon at full speed but I am betting it will be a lot less than 43A and even with spikes during a hit I can't see the packs getting dangerously low.
Sounding good, I can't wait to see it for reals! And it turns out that I need something off Ceri, so I now have to fight Conker before going for Kaizer. Sorry :)
Oh well, looks like I will be earning some air miles then :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MicroGravity100
Had the last load of goodies turn up today, so this weekend I will finally be able to get Conker 3 wired up and tested!
Attachment 4453
So we have:
-2x 2.7Ah 6S Optipower ultra packs, 15mm wide weapon timing belts, voltage regulators for the lighting, some thrust bearings for the front wheels, Castle Link USB to monitor the ESC's and last the 3D printed batteries and electronics mount. That is 5mm thick solid fill Nylon 6.
Attachment 4454
Lipos are a fraction longer as usual so they are a snug fit length wise with enough space to gently push in some padding to keep them from shifting front to back. I will cut the cables shorter to get the EC5's in and allow the wires to slip down the holes on the right and off to the safety links.
Attachment 4451
And this shows just how tight everything is going to be. I designed it to be snug but its going to be tricky to route all the cables neatly and safely. But when it is done right it will look brilliant!
Sunday afternoon is when I plan to have her all wired up and working with just a few final tweaks to do, providing the first run doesn't reveal any issues.
Nice!!!!
Looks really compact in there
Oh no, Jarvis. That wasn't request of loan. You can attack me with impunity.Quote:
Originally Posted by MicroGravity100
That was the suggestion of your best chance to win 4 points.
Meh, still going for Conker first XDQuote:
Originally Posted by psychostorm
Maybe you will reconsider after seeing this...Quote:
Originally Posted by MicroGravity100
I think you need to put like a picture or something there.