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Hello,
I am looking for a screw type isolation valve to replace the squeeze type in a fire extinguisher.
It is M25x2 thread and will have to have a burst disk
I have emailed these guys and am waiting on a reply...
http://www.galpro.co.nz/shop/CYLINDE...erValve34.html
Any other ideas? I have spent quite a while looking and have found nothing! If I can find a similar type valve I could turn up an adapter, but I would really rather not.
Tom
Okay!
I have spent all day looking and ringing places and I have not found anything useful.
I have even lowered my expectations, and looked for a screw type valve of any size, with a bust disk, thinking I can manufacture a adapter for the bottle and the valve, and have had no luck.
I know this is a pretty common problem, as the fire extinguishers are widely used, and am interested how others have solved it. I have been referencing this page quite a bit in my build.
http://howto.killerhurtz.co.uk/pneumatics.htm
The rules state a manual isolation valve, would the handle valve count as an isolation valve, and part of the robot priming process be pushing the handle and fastening a strap to keep it 'live'?
Or I am thinking I could leave the handle valve as it is, and find a hydraulic ball valve (or similar, possibly paintball?) to fit on the output side of the handle valve, and just 'clamp down' the standard co2 handle all the time.
The team hurts team seem to have mounted directly to a regulator then had the dump valve on the low pressure side. I cannot see how they isolate the bottle.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
The chap you want to talk to is John Lear from team beast .
Thank you Terry, I will reach out to him on twitter.
In the mean time I think I have a (messy) way of working with the standard lever handle.
Attachment 6449
I think the thread on the fire extinguisher 'output' (attaches to the nozzle part) is non standard.
If I use the nut that came with the fire extinguisher, and an adapter as below to attach to a standard 3/8" bsp hydraulic ball valve to act as an isolator for the tank, then into a hydraulic line, into the regulator, then onto the low pressure side.
I will have to zip tie the handle of the fire extinguisher down.
I am thinking about putting a hydraulic quick release after the isolator ball valve to make removing the tank simple and tool free.
Attachment 6450
Attachment 6451
edit: I messed up the thread size on the 3/8, theory is the same though!
You dont want the cone shape on the CO2 adapter, it needs to be a flat surface (normally with a sealing washer).
The M25 valves are very difficult to get hold of now days for some reason. You can get the 3/4BSP ones fairly easily though, so might be worth changing your bottle if possible.
Is your regulator mounting directly on to the bottle or do you have a hose inbetween (as if so you will also need a 1000psi relief valve on the high pressure side)?
As a back up plan, you can modify the fire exinguisher handle, drill a hole through both parts of the handle and put a bolt through with a wing nut, as you tighten the wing nut it squeezes the handles together.