i have choosen all my parts (Are they correct??)

hello all

i as many of you probably are a fan of combat robots but i have never had the courage to get in about it and try building my own,

i am building it on a budget (cheap as possible) i want it as a learning curve but also have something im proud of at the end

i have rough ideas for chassis etc but im foucusing on the electronics first then ill start to design a chassis

http://r.ebay.com/gr5BjC

i made a collection in ebay, but may source from elsewhere due to cost

the main confusion i have is the receiver connecting to the motor controller, and if i have selected the correct controller for the 4 motors i have found, and if the 4ch receiver is compatible with the motor controller



any help would be much appreciated

Regards Gary Cavin

I use Sabretooth ESC, and whilst there not the cheapest, they are very easy to use, transfer to other projects and are pretty robust. It should be fine with the motors depending on the input voltage. 4-chan should be ok, doesn't seen like a lot though! All the input i can give im afraid as im not very experienced myself!

The batteries are , eufemistic, a tad outdated.

ok ty for the feedback

the motors are 24v, with a rated current of 14 amps, from what i woked out is that is 28 amp, the peak amp of the controllers ar throwing me a bit as not sure what the peak is?

with regards to batteries i was going to look into it a bit further but cheap to start with and could improve that later pre/post build, it was more the weight of these batteries that concerned me

also do i need this ? https://www.amazon.com/BattleSwitch-...ZDF7HJWKXABTBQ

Lead batteries are a lot heavier than the modern LiPo batteries.

24V motors, you can do that with 2 cheap 3S , or 1 less cheap 6S LiPo pack from any cheap supplier, like this one

No, you don't need a battleswitch.
According the FRA rules, you need a removable link. A piece of wire/connectors that can be removed without the use of tools.

Peak power, it's the max electric power a part can deliver or withstand for a very short time.

ok ill go the lipo route, just read up on them cost difference isn't massive/ and parallel charging looks good also

but the 4 xmotors
1.Voltage:24 V
2.Wattage:250 W
3.Rated Current:13.5 A
4.Rated Speed:2750
5.Chain Size:6mm(25H)
6.Number of Teeth:11
7.Drive Type:Sprocket
8.Number of Bullet Connectors:2
9.Motor typle: Brushed

and the sabertooth dual 60amp 120peak,

is fully compatible?

also battle switch.. is that just a device that connects to the receiver on another channel to operate turn on/off ie a spinner ?

You'll want bigger batteries for a heavy.

Oh, and I have mistaken the battleswitch for a on/off switch Battlebots style. Sorry.

But stay away from that battleswitch. It's about the most unreliable piece of s**t for that purpose.

there is a thread about RC switches, and several options are given.

Ok thank you again for clarifying, I'm not sure mine is a heavy bot, I did it more on big as I can for a budget. Was going to check how many I would need roughly to run for X amount of time(have a math friend for that) , I'll have a look at RC switches if I get to the weapon stage, just want a semi decent platform then I'll move forward

Helps to know motors and speed controller are compatible just needs bit more juice then..


Thanks again

If your doing it on a budget it'd probably be best to stick to around featherweight scale as then you'd actually get to use it at events and have fun with it.

So say it ends up being 40kg. Then it'll be illegal to enter any events being too heavy for feathers but to light for heavyweights

Just something to keep in mind

Ok thanks Garfie, not to concerned about competing with this bot,b it of a back to front build, as doing big as I can for cost , I'll add up the weight once I know all the comoonents, but happy to strip it down at a later date to match a weight class, this one is more a learning curve, in a little bit fortunate I work a t a go kart centre so plenty of spare materials and a chap that will do my welding.