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Thread: Go Ugly Early (FW)

  1. #11
    Maxamuslead's Avatar
    Roboteer

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    Mark Smith
    Robots
    "Blacksmith" (FW) in a bag in bits "Forge Master" (FW) battle worn "Forge Master II" (FW) in CAD
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    Lincolnshire, Threekingham
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wkdintent View Post
    Do you mean I let the HDPE base scrape on the floor, or that I could just attach something (like a dome nut) to the underside without a bolt?

    If you mean the latter, I would probably stick with a bolt, as it's one of many attaching the base to the chassis anyway.
    even if you don't counter sink the holes you don't need to use a bolt to act a caster, HDPE is slippy enough plus if you look at all other modern flippers they just run with the wedge planing the the floor. as look if you plenty of ground clearance everywhere else you should be able to drive around fine.

  2. #12
    Ah really, that's interesting. I read lots of comments about the uneven floors, I thought it best to keep the chassis off it.

    In that case it's mighty tempting to put a strip of 10mm hardox along the front. Hmm

  3. #13
    Maxamuslead's Avatar
    Roboteer

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    Mark Smith
    Robots
    "Blacksmith" (FW) in a bag in bits "Forge Master" (FW) battle worn "Forge Master II" (FW) in CAD
    Location
    Lincolnshire, Threekingham
    Posts
    421
    Quote Originally Posted by Wkdintent View Post
    Ah really, that's interesting. I read lots of comments about the uneven floors, I thought it best to keep the chassis off it.

    In that case it's mighty tempting to put a strip of 10mm hardox along the front. Hmm
    That is very true the floor is like a mountain range in places vut most people just power straight over, wheelie over, gyro over or find a smoother part

  4. #14
    It’s been quite a while since I wrote one of these, but work has continued over the summer.

    Firstly, I was trying to put the front wedge on a hinge to drag on the floor, but even with fire-door grade hinges, I couldn't see a way to really make it robust. So, this has been replaced by a traditional flat 6mm Hardox plate (2), which was plasma cut by Lakeland steel for £55. (Their site has an automated quote system which I found very useful). This wedge is supported by four angled struts which bolt directly into the front of the chassis, and should take some punishment. I have even designed it so that the wedge can be reversed after a battle to give a fresh sharp edge. It might be 1.3kg, but I reckon it'll be worth it.

    robot.png

    The upper ramp (3) is no longer attached to the top lid, but actuates with two beams that go over the lid allowing the bot too self right.

    On the aluminium strut sides (1) I was hoping to use (extremely cheap) triangular wooden armour, but it turns out the sizes on the website were measured in a strange way. So unless I can find a replacement, I might have to resort to flat HDPE panels, which bolt on the outside of the chassis (not shown).

    Internally I don't seem to have given myself quite enough room for everything. While the main components are ok, it's little things which I'm having the cram into small gaps.
    The servo controlling linear actuator is mounted on a bracket on the side wall of the chassis.

    Using an oversized prototype lid and base I was able to get the thing moving, only to crash it into one of my colleagues steel toe cap boots, but luckily no serious damage. Even the FrSky Rx is now giving me the correct failsafe shutdown.



    Finally, I am hoping to debut the machine at the Cheltenham event in November. Especially as I only live 10 minutes from the venue.

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