Hi!

I have been googling around the past few days to try to start a first
antweight robot. But I'm not so confident in what I'm doing, so I'll
try to summarize here before I start to buy parts. My idea is to start
buy building a simple 2 wheels pusher and once this is all working
properly add some pieces to get a flipper or hammer.

My background is in IT, so I don't know anything about
electronics. Please excuse if my questions are stupid or have already
been answered Also I'm based in Australia/Singapore.

From what I gathered online the first thing to look at is the
ESC.

People at
http://www.robotwars101.org/forum/index.php advertise the
nanotwo. But nutsandbots doesn't deliver to this side of the world and
the product is out of stock. The local alternative for a kit seems to
be from botbitz http://botbitz.com/product/antweight-starter-kit/

There is not as much documentation for it as for the nanotwo. So I
have some questions:

- does it work with DSM2/DSMX or only AFHDS?
- can I plug an additionnal servo to it or I will need another ESC?
- Is it the most recommended transmitter/receiver to go with the kit?
http://botbitz.com/product/hobbyking...tter-receiver/
- Do I need a soldering kit to link the drive motors and the ESC?

I have been told "ESCs are by far the hardest to find as you need to
find brushed ones with no brakes".

Does it correspond to the botbitz kit?

Botbitz provides motors with different voltages. But it seems that
most bots are using a 2s lipo battery which give 7.4v. Why would I need
the high voltage one then?

For the batteries,
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...pack-5pcs.html
should be ok? With a lipo safe bag and a charger.

Regarding the transmitter, I found on one forum someone talking about
this one https://hobbyking.com/en_us/fs-i4x-4...io-mode-1.html
which is AFHDS too so maybe compatible with the botbitz kit. Is it
really compatible? Is 4 channels too little? Does it worth spending a
bit more on a better transmitter?

If I go with
http://botbitz.com/product/hobbyking...tter-receiver/,
is it the V1 or V2? What is the mode 1 part of the description here?
It looks like there is a mode 2 also.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobby-ki...v2-mode-1.html

Where can I buy the pieces to make the frame of the robot? It seems
that many people are using 3D printing now. But at the beginning I'd
prefer not to spend time on learning CAD and finding a printer.

Everything is out of stock on hobbykind, is it normal and I just have
to monitor the products I'm interested by? Like
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobby-ki...usb-cable.html
for the transmitter

What tooling should I buy except a screwdriver?

What good wiring guide should I read?

For the servos for a flipper (or a hammer), I see there are different
possibilities like the number of degrees it can move. But I don't
understand how to read the other specification. For example, how to
know if it's powerful enough to move 200g?

Sorry for the long post. It also helps to summarize and organize what
I have in mind.

List of required parts:

- Drive Motors
- Wheels and Hubs
- Drive Speed Controller
- RC Radio / Receiver
- Batteries
- Power Switch / Link
- Weapon Motor (If Design Requires)
- Weapon Speed Controller(If Design Requires)
- Wire
- Connectors

Vocabulary (because I didn't understand half of the words at first):

- 2WD/4WD: 2/4 wheel drive
- ESC: ESC stands for Electronic Speed Controller. It converts the PWM
signal from the flight controller or radio receiver, and drives the
brushless motor by providing the appropriate level of electrical
power.
- BEC: BEC stands for Battery Elimination Circuit. It’s just a fancy
name for voltage regulator, which converts main LiPo battery pack
voltage to a lower voltage (e.g. 2S 7.4V, 3S 11.1V or 4S 14.8V to
5V). BEC is usually built into ESC, and as the name suggests, it
eliminates the need for a separate battery to power the 5V
electronic devices.
- UBEC: UBEC stands for universal BEC or sometimes ultimate BEC. It’s
used when ESC doesn’t have built-in BEC, or standalone power system
is required. They generally are more efficient, more reliable and
able to provide more current than BEC. The UBEC is connected
directly to the main battery of the multicopter, the same way as an
ESC.
- TX/RX: transmitter/receiver
- 10:1, 30:1, 50:1:
- 1s, 2s, 3s: Batteries with 1, 2 and 3 cells

Links:

- ESC, BEC, UBEC
https://oscarliang.com/what-is-esc-ubec-bec-quadcopter/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_speed_control
http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/thre...ense-of-it-all
- ...