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Thread: Deathly Hallows - FW - Alligrater

  1. #21
    Maxamuslead's Avatar
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    Gosh that gonna be a big Feather.....

  2. #22
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    Yep. Hence the trial with ply. Gonna have to be careful of the weight. Doing it this way if I need to narrow it it I can work out the space.

    The height of the back panel and length of the ramp is constrained by the size of the motors and wheels. So really the only thing I can change is the width. This design is 600mm wide, I could drop it down to 500mm without any issues. I'd like it wide as I want other robots to get on top so any weapon can do it's thing.

    Speaking of the weapon I want to be able to swap out depending on arena. But first I need a working rolling chassis.

    My plan is as follows:

    1 Rolling chassis
    1.1 fix wheel hubs and sprockets to wheels
    1.2 sort out chains and tensioner
    2 first wire up and fuse
    3 Self righter
    4 weapon
    5 rebuild chassis
    6 final wire and safety switch
    7 cosmetics

  3. #23
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    600mm is as wide as the baseplate on Kaizen... you are indeed going to have a trial getting this under the weight limit. That being said, I think it is possible if you are careful with the shell and weapon components. However, the danger is that the armour becomes too thin to realistically stand up to the competition in the arena.

    What is the expected overall size of Alligrator?
    Team Kaizen

    AW: Osu, Ikari, Ramu
    BW: Shu! (Build Thread)
    FW: The Honey Badger (Build Thread)
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  4. #24
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    Let's assume I narrow it to 500mm, length will be 550mm, height 270mm including wheel clearance.

    In theory I could reduce the width further but it will limit my weapon options and I want stuff to end upon top.
    The height is pretty fixed, and the length of ramp is constrained by the big motors and the necessary angle to cover them.

    I have some nice Alligrator green 12.7mm HDPE but the floor can be aluminium. Will have to do some sums.

    This is exactly why I wanted to build a full size ply version to see how it all comes together.

  5. #25
    Maxamuslead's Avatar
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    you can reduce the high, those motors can sit fine in a 110mm frame and have the wheels poking through the top ? also if you can shorten you could have the wheels sticking out the back a little as well.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxamuslead View Post
    you can reduce the high, those motors can sit fine in a 110mm frame and have the wheels poking through the top ? also if you can shorten you could have the wheels sticking out the back a little as well.
    Thats a good idea, could help if I land on my rear to self right but would expose the wheels to rear attacks. I'll get my saw out tonight.

  7. #27
    Maxamuslead's Avatar
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    you will always have a weak point, to be honest it a lot of wedges using that idea, look at the heavyweight flippers

  8. #28
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    IMG_20180514_200824.jpg

    I didn't start cutting but drew what could be a layout. I could go steeper but that makes the gap to the motor very small. I drew a fainter pencil line to show that angle. The darker sharpy lines show a possible new design. The length of base is near enough 500mm the height goes down to 220mm. I also looked at reducing the width, from 600mm to 400mm. This would reduce the materials needed for the outer body by around 40% I think. I'll need a spreadsheet to really work it out.

  9. #29
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    I managed to fit up one side of the drive system in the ply mock up. I narrowed the chassis to 400mm but that maybe too narrow for the final build.
    Never broke and shortened a chain before, so bought a good tool for the job which made the task a doddle. I cut slots out the back to move the wheel further back as advised by Mark.
    The HDPE hubs I made worked well. Though the design of the wheel with 6 spokes one side (the side I fit the hub and sprocket) and 3 the other,limit the number of bolt options. I have one going through the sprocket, hub, and wheel clamping it all together. A second bolt locks just the sprocket to the hub. With the hub sitting over the 6 spokes there is no way this is moving. For final build I will glue it on.
    Bolted the motors to the floor, and span it up.
    ..
    Vvvrrrrrmmmm
    ..
    The chain drive makes a different sound to a direct electric drive. Very satisfying.

    No photo or video until I get it a bit tidier.

    Second chain on order, some new bolts of optimal length, and various bits.
    Weapon and self righter still to go.

    Also have to decide if I get the aluminium floor professionally warer cut or attempt it myself.

  10. #30
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    Think all the postie's and parcel men wanted to get home to watch the wedding! The bits I ordered on eBay came also the clamps I ordered from http://www.simplybearings.co.uk items look good and cheaper than eBay or Amazon paid under £8 for 10x shaft collars!

    I managed to crafg the second hub and assemble another wheel, but I seem to have lost an oilite bush. Also started to cut the HDPE, which is a risk when I haven't got the linear actuator yet to know how it will fit.

    Triedmto do some soldering and just got frustrated. I just can't get the hang of it. Bought some flux which appears to be helping the solder stick to the connectors but, can't get wire, connector and solder all in right at same time, despite having a spare hand clamp.

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