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Thread: 18V Safety Light

  1. #1

  2. #2
    https://www.componentshop.co.uk/leds/led-strips.html

    They say 12v but they happily go up to 24v.

  3. #3
    I use these now in all my bots. Plug right into the receiver on a spare channel and turn on when the receiver turns on. Just chop any lights you don't need (I tend to only use one) and insulate any cut wires.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Upgrade-L...sAAOSwsW9Y28JR

    The fuse has to be rated to be less than the burst rating of your lipo pack. Figure out the burst rating and size accordingly.

  4. #4
    I thought the whole deal with the safety light was that it had to be connected over all the circuitry of your robot. Like if your Rx blows up but power is still flowing to other parts, it doesn't really tell you that the robot is still powered on. For my LED I just use a normal red 1.8V LED and a resistor in series for this reason.

  5. #5
    Think its preferred to be wired directly into the circuit, but via the RX is still acceptable. As regards to a 18v circuit, I've got three LEDs in series. So each bulb is getting a fraction of the 18v so they don't blow.

  6. #6
    The rules (rule 6.4) simply state that the light must come on when the link is inserted. As I run my machines off a BEC in the main power circuit, it comes on when the link is inserted. I've never had an issue running this method.

  7. #7
    I thought you could not run it off the receiver and it needed to be wired in. Something about if the receiver dieing or being damaged but the bot still being armed.

    either way 5s (18.5v) Will run two of in THESE series no problem as that is what i am currently running in my bot

  8. #8
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    Technically, that could also happen with a hardwired solution (the wires to the LEDs being cut by a spinner for example) and I think that is the crux here, is the only acceptable power light solution something that is hardwired into the main circuitry of the robot as opposed to a pluggable solution, such as plugging a LED into the receiver?

    Having done both in the past, I am inclined to say that a hardwired solution is preferable because the receiver can be damaged and not provide power to the LED channel but still allow the other channels to work (although personally, I've never seen that happen) and having a light on the main circuit tells you exactly that, the main circuit is live.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  9. #9
    When the LED rule was first brought in there was a 1000 reply thread on the topic (I'm not lying, it's probably still there). Keep it simple, link goes into robot, light comes on, link comes out, light goes out. Nice and simple. How your achieve this isn't prescribed. There are better and worse ways but that's up to you.

  10. #10
    Redirect Left
    Guest
    For Team Deaths new machine, the active light is on a seperate source of power (for sake of not having a multitude of resistors) - but it goes through the same link as every other component in the machine before it ends up at the LED. So it'll still be a true indication of the bots ability to cause surprises on approach. Unless an opponent manage to snap the LED cable and nothing else, but the way it is wired, you should have to destroy a lot of things to get in there, and you'd almost certainly knock out another set of wires anyway.

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