Register To Comment
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: 18V Safety Light

  1. #1
    Roboteer

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Henry Nourse
    Robots
    Is It Cheese? (BW), Turntable (FW)
    Location
    Winchester
    Posts
    21
    Hi all, we're reaching the last steps on our featherweight robot Turntable and we've been totally unable to find a suitable LED or suchlike to act as a safety light on our 18V system. A quick Google has suggested various linear vintage reduction devices but I imagine that wouldn't really be suitable for this kind of thing.

    Does anyone have a suggestion for a solution or suitable light?

    Also if anyone can advise the strength of Fuse needed for an 18V system powering two drill motors on TZ85A's with 10 AWG wires, I'd appreciate it. I'm not sure if we should use 40A, as that's the limit of the wires, or 80-85A as that's the limit of the ESC!

  2. #2
    Garfie489's Avatar
    Roboteer

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Gareth
    Robots
    Dystopia (HW), Enforcer (FW), and Defector (FW)
    Location
    London
    Posts
    294
    https://www.componentshop.co.uk/leds/led-strips.html

    They say 12v but they happily go up to 24v.
    My 3 loves - Rugby, Racing, and Robotics.

  3. #3
    typhoon_driver's Avatar
    Member

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Gary Cairns
    Robots
    Hornet 2 - retired Boner - retired Smidsy - Sold 540 - Sold PP3D - Active
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    4,434
    I use these now in all my bots. Plug right into the receiver on a spare channel and turn on when the receiver turns on. Just chop any lights you don't need (I tend to only use one) and insulate any cut wires.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Upgrade-L...sAAOSwsW9Y28JR

    The fuse has to be rated to be less than the burst rating of your lipo pack. Figure out the burst rating and size accordingly.

  4. #4
    R9000's Avatar
    Roboteer

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Rory Charlesworth
    Robots
    [AW] Anty-Clockwise 2 [AW] Brushless Pizza [FW] Aegis
    Location
    Sheffield
    Posts
    540
    I thought the whole deal with the safety light was that it had to be connected over all the circuitry of your robot. Like if your Rx blows up but power is still flowing to other parts, it doesn't really tell you that the robot is still powered on. For my LED I just use a normal red 1.8V LED and a resistor in series for this reason.

  5. #5
    cjsowry's Avatar
    Roboteer

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Chris Sowry
    Robots
    (HW) Luna-Tic (active). (FW) Luna-Tic (active) and Crota (active) (BW) Claws2 (under construction) P
    Location
    Whitchurch, Shropshire
    Posts
    106
    Think its preferred to be wired directly into the circuit, but via the RX is still acceptable. As regards to a 18v circuit, I've got three LEDs in series. So each bulb is getting a fraction of the 18v so they don't blow.

  6. #6
    typhoon_driver's Avatar
    Member

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Gary Cairns
    Robots
    Hornet 2 - retired Boner - retired Smidsy - Sold 540 - Sold PP3D - Active
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    4,434
    The rules (rule 6.4) simply state that the light must come on when the link is inserted. As I run my machines off a BEC in the main power circuit, it comes on when the link is inserted. I've never had an issue running this method.

  7. #7
    Maxamuslead's Avatar
    Roboteer

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Mark-s
    Robots
    "Blacksmith" (FW)
    Location
    Lincolnshire, Threekingham
    Posts
    293
    I thought you could not run it off the receiver and it needed to be wired in. Something about if the receiver dieing or being damaged but the bot still being armed.

    either way 5s (18.5v) Will run two of in THESE series no problem as that is what i am currently running in my bot

  8. #8
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Michael
    Robots
    Osu, Ikari - AW / Shu! - BW / The Honey Badger - FW / Kaizen (Building) - HW
    Location
    Somewhere on the Wirral
    Posts
    498
    Technically, that could also happen with a hardwired solution (the wires to the LEDs being cut by a spinner for example) and I think that is the crux here, is the only acceptable power light solution something that is hardwired into the main circuitry of the robot as opposed to a pluggable solution, such as plugging a LED into the receiver?

    Having done both in the past, I am inclined to say that a hardwired solution is preferable because the receiver can be damaged and not provide power to the LED channel but still allow the other channels to work (although personally, I've never seen that happen) and having a light on the main circuit tells you exactly that, the main circuit is live.
    Team Kaizen

    AW - Osu, Ikari
    BW - Shu! (Build Thread)
    FW - The Honey Badger (Build Thread)
    HW - Kaizen (Build Thread)

  9. #9
    typhoon_driver's Avatar
    Member

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Gary Cairns
    Robots
    Hornet 2 - retired Boner - retired Smidsy - Sold 540 - Sold PP3D - Active
    Location
    Aberdeenshire
    Posts
    4,434
    When the LED rule was first brought in there was a 1000 reply thread on the topic (I'm not lying, it's probably still there). Keep it simple, link goes into robot, light comes on, link comes out, light goes out. Nice and simple. How your achieve this isn't prescribed. There are better and worse ways but that's up to you.

  10. #10
    Redirect Left's Avatar
    Roboteer

    Status
    Offline
    Name
    Adam
    Location
    Wakefield, West Yorkshire
    Posts
    118
    For Team Deaths new machine, the active light is on a seperate source of power (for sake of not having a multitude of resistors) - but it goes through the same link as every other component in the machine before it ends up at the LED. So it'll still be a true indication of the bots ability to cause surprises on approach. Unless an opponent manage to snap the LED cable and nothing else, but the way it is wired, you should have to destroy a lot of things to get in there, and you'd almost certainly knock out another set of wires anyway.

Register To Comment

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •