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Thread: Madusa Build Tread

  1. #31
    Ocracoke's Avatar
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    Michael
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    a. I’d need a lot of solder to keep the thin wires in place in the XT60s- is this ok?
    Probably, yes but leading onto my next statement...

    b. Just to confirm that the thin wires won’t prohibit power being routed through to the ESC and then to the motors causing us to to be even slower?
    Now what I do in The Honey Badger is have the LED effectively wired in parallel with the ESC from the battery. You are right, the thin wires wouldn't support the higher current and likely burn out, like a fuse would do.

    So currently in The Honey Badger and Shu!, the wiring for this section looks like this (oversimplified but you get the idea)...

    basic_diagram.png

    Osu and Ikari (my antweights) use this sort of arrangement which I am more happier with (it is a little neater - photographed whilst in development):

    DSCF6050.JPG
    Last edited by Ocracoke; 7th March 2018 at 21:56.
    Team Kaizen

    AW: Osu, Ikari, Ramu
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  2. #32
    Outlaw's Avatar
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    Daniel Jackson
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    Hey man, I'd put a little more electric tape around the removable link wire, that little bit of exposed metal could cause a shock, haha. But it's looking good so far.

    The way I do it is that I put the LEDs after the fuses, and (and this is a big and, because I've learnt this the hard way haha) make sure there's a resistor to the LEDs, that way you don't fry them. I remember Ocracoke linking me to some LEDs that were pre-resistor'd if you don't mind paying for them. I've yet to put them on Ratatoskr yet, but from what I can see on them, they might look right up your alley.

  3. #33
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    Eoin
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    The setup I used is pretty much identical to DotDominic's Venator build. Pic is linked below, and the entire log is great if you need some help with basic wiring.

    link setup.jpg

    Link to build log: http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/thre...t-robot-please
    Last edited by Shooty; 8th March 2018 at 10:10.

  4. #34
    TechAUmNu's Avatar
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    Euan Mutch
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    XT60 for an led wow

  5. #35
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    Dominic Cartlidge
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    Hahaha at the time it was the only connector I had Definitely overkill though, and you probably don't need gauge 12 wire for the LED either! I used Jamie's post in this thread as a guide for wiring - he explains the setup pretty well:

    http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/thre...ting-power-out



    EDIT: Upon looking at Jamie's image again, it looks like I misunderstood the order of the battery and link leads, so I've had the Fuse on the wrong side for two years. Oops! The battery connector is the one on the bottom left side of Jamie's image, followed by the link top left, and then the fuse. Thanks for that, Nat!
    Last edited by dotDominic; 8th March 2018 at 13:46. Reason: Oops! Will put a little edit in my build diary!

  6. #36
    Member

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    I would advise putting the fuse on the positive side of the battery lead, as this means there is no positive live on your components. very rare this would case an issue but its just common practice in electronics world.

  7. #37
    TechAUmNu's Avatar
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    Euan Mutch
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    It's because a lot of the time electronics connect the ground to the case of the device, or the mounting points. So the whole frame of your bot would be battery ground in that case. It doesn't really apply here as much but for example on a powersupply you could have the ground going through the casing into the board, bypassing the fuse completely. Hence putting the fuse on the 'dangerous' wire is good because it will will always only have one return path. Making the fuse the limiting factor.

  8. #38
    Thanks so much!!!!

    I’ll post a picture of when it is all wired up to have a final check!! I don’t want to plug it in and then it go bang!!

  9. #39
    Hi All

    Madusa is almost ready for her maiden outing at Manchester (albeit we can only attend on the Sunday).

    I have tried every possible combination (well it seems like it on the Feather2 ESC) and I cant get it to turn right when I move the stick right (it turns left) and visa versa and getting very frustrated now!

    I have also tried changing the feeds on the receiver as well but to no avail. Obviously, I have done something wrong but cant see what!!!

    Here is a picture of our current setup of the ESC, RL, RX and Fuse

    I was wondering is there any way I can programme my transmitter to basically work the oposite direction for left and right but not forwards and backwards?

    I have an FSFLY transmitter, which I believe is basically the same as a Spektrum obviously not quite as good though but we could not afford one).

    https://www.banggood.com/FsFly-T-six...p-1038245.html

    Any help would be massively appreciated otherwise my 9 year old daughter driver will just get too damn confused!!

    Cheers

    Jon

  10. #40
    Ocracoke's Avatar
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    Sounds as if there is a reverse needed on one of the channels on the transmitter possibly, I need to do that on The Honey Badger and I think it might have been for this reason.
    Last edited by Ocracoke; 14th April 2018 at 19:48.
    Team Kaizen

    AW: Osu, Ikari, Ramu
    BW: Shu! (Build Thread)
    FW: The Honey Badger (Build Thread)
    MW: Kaizen (Build Thread)

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