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Thread: Disassembly of Argos 14.4v

  1. #1
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    Hey all,

    Decided to untangle and disassemble the Argos 14.4V drills I used in my demo bot.

    In making the demo bot, I removed the battery and unscrewed the few screws holding the two sides of the case together.

    IMG_20171106_184838.jpgIMG_20171106_184929.jpg

    In the demo bot I simply took the wires off the trigger and routed out the back. After closing the case again I used it in that state.

    IMG_20171106_190107.jpg

    The battery could be easily repurposed too, this was used in the demo bot. There is a power connector which you can wire to. Should you wish to use these batteries.
    IMG_20171106_203451.jpg

    This was all done back in November. Now that Evil K'Weevil (EKW) is almost ready, I took the test bot to pieces. Thought I would also look if the motors are any good and understand if they can be reused in a Featherweight.

    Continues....

  2. #2
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    Some measurements were taken back last year when I was looking for better mounts, and struggling with fitting wheels to the demo bot.

    IMG_20171108_184710.jpg

    Since then I bought a caliper gauge so I'll post these details up in an update.

    The motor comes away from the rest of the assembly quite easily.

    IMG_20180210_162101.jpg

    Removing these pins then allows the the part to be removed

    IMG_20180210_162456.jpgIMG_20180210_162509.jpg

    The toothed gear on the motors output shaft sat neatly in here.

    Am I correct in thinking this is the clutch? Though it look like gearing it's before the dial to adjust the ratio.

    It's all greased up and when removed, watch that any bearings don't come away and then get lost.
    IMG_20180210_164138.jpg

    Now I got stuck. I don't have a suitable star head driver to remove the chuck. Biggest I have is T-20 and it's a bit bigger than that.

  3. #3
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    No idea if that's the clutch or not (I'd guess its the part which selects low or high range as the 12v single speed drills don't have that on them I don't think) but if you have not yet took your other drill apart yet you might want to leave it together for now. The LH Thread screws that hold the chucks on can be really tight and leaving the drill assembled in its case gives you a lot more to hold on to when you are trying to get it undone.

  4. #4
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    You could be right. I never saw a 12v they were out of stock at the time. Too late unfortunately. Other one is in same condition. What size driver do I need? I assume they are the same. I'll need to buy one.

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    Assuming it's the same screw as the 12v argos drill I used a T25.

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    I am pretty sure you are right. I found a T30 and that's too big. Ordered a set anyway.

  7. #7
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    T25 iscorrect fitting.

    Well I tried squirting some WD40 in the end and leaving it to soak, overnight. Nothing...

    I tried heating it up with a blast from my Dremmel heat gun.

    No luck. - Not given up yet. Perhaps I need to get them really toasty. Willing to risk it now as nothing to lose.

    What I have found is that the motors are almost certainly the model between these I found Gimson Robotics

    They have the 9T pinion on the shaft. Which slides off nice and easy if not needed.

    2 screws on the plastic face plate, all have some wear and tear, pretty cheap screws and over tightened. One I had to release by loosening the other side and then forcing the plastic plate up.

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    If you can re-assemble the drill into a working state, I have manage to remove tricky LH screws by holding the T25 bit in the screw and powering on the drill in the other direction to undo it. Make sure you turn the torque setting down from maximum unless you want your wrist pulling off . The repeated impacts from the slipping clutch have always worked to loosen it for me.

  9. #9
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    That sounds like a really good idea - genius!
    I hope I kept the bits.

    Thanks for the tip -I will see if I can hold it in a vice rather than break my wrists

    Cheers

  10. #10
    LH = left-hand thread screw. Turn the screw clockwise to release.

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