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Thread: First bot advice

  1. #1

  2. #2
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    Hey there, welcome to the forum!

    In a basic 2WD rammer, you'll need something in the order of:

    • 2x motors (something with gearboxes, I can highly recommend Gimson motors for this)
    • 2x Electronic Speed Controllers capable of handling the current and voltage you want to supply, such as a hacked set of TZ85As
    • A set of batteries that complies with the rules and can deliver the power you need. For what it is worth, The Honey Badger 2.1 runs off of 2x 2S LiFePO4 batteries wired in series to get to 13.2v.


    You'll also want a transmitter capable of mixing (so the robot can be driven on the one directional control stick). You may also wish to invest in a set of electrical connectors such as the XT60 to make strong connections and your removable link and a LED with a resistor to make the power light with.

    As for armour, the world is your oyster but I would recommend going with HDPE as a starting point. It is reasonably cheap and, when thick enough, can easily stand up to a fair bit of punishment in the arena. It can also be worked on with low speed woodworking tools. The Honey Badger 2.1 (my Featherweight) can attest to how much punishment HDPE can take.

    As you note, do read through the build diaries to see what works and, more importantly, doesn't work. IC Feathers are very rare (I don't think I've ever seen one) and you'll need to know that if you do progress on to a spinner, some live events won't allow them due to safety concerns and others may place restrictions on how fast they can spin.
    Last edited by Ocracoke; 22nd January 2018 at 01:50.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Ocracoke View Post
    Hey there, welcome to the forum!

    In a basic 2WD rammer, you'll need something in the order of:

    • 2x motors (something with gearboxes, I can highly recommend Gimson motors for this)
    • 2x Electronic Speed Controllers capable of handling the current and voltage you want to supply, such as a hacked set of TZ85As
    • A set of batteries that complies with the rules and can deliver the power you need. For what it is worth, The Honey Badger 2.1 runs off of 2x 2S LiFePO4 batteries wired in series to get to 13.2v.


    You'll also want a transmitter capable of mixing (so the robot can be driven on the one directional control stick). You may also wish to invest in a set of electrical connectors such as the XT60 to make strong connections and your removable link and a LED with a resistor to make the power light with.

    As for armour, the world is your oyster but I would recommend going with HDPE as a starting point. It is reasonably cheap and, when thick enough, can easily stand up to a fair bit of punishment in the arena. It can also be worked on with low speed woodworking tools. The Honey Badger 2.1 (my Featherweight) can attest to how much punishment HDPE can take.

    As you note, do read through the build diaries to see what works and, more importantly, doesn't work. IC Feathers are very rare (I don't think I've ever seen one) and you'll need to know that if you do progress on to a spinner, some live events won't allow them due to safety concerns and others may place restrictions on how fast they can spin.
    Thanks Ocra, i've been checking your build threads so i'm glad you've responded as my first bots may be a little similar to yours!

    I watched a few videos and I think I may have grasped the basics. I think i'm going to go for a HDPE shell in a wedge like fashion. I had intended to build a spinner but it seems as though they're not eligible for all competitions which is a shame as you mentioned

    I have controllers etc from the nitro car kits i have, do you think i could reuse these to what i need or would it be best buying newer gear as they are several years old now so the reliability is in question.

    I am hoping to use the wheels and the chassis from these. I'm going to go and get the box out later today and see what I have to play around with but being completely honest I dont even know what parts are what at the moment

    What would you advise i aim for in regards to power? What amps, battery voltage etc
    Last edited by MrCawdell; 22nd January 2018 at 11:34.

  4. #4
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    The controllers from bog standard RC cars, in my experience, are not up to the job. I wouldn't know if the controllers for nitros are up to the job (I have no experience with IC RC vehicles) but I can't imagine them being up to the job either given the pounding a combative robot takes.

    I had intended to build a spinner but it seems as though they're not eligible for all competitions which is a shame as you mentioned
    Nothing to say that you couldn't make it interchangeable... that is the plan for The Honey Badger 3.0 when I eventually get around to building it.

    I am hoping to use the wheels and the chassis from these. I'm going to go and get the box out later today and see what I have to play around with but being completely honest I dont even know what parts are what at the moment
    RC wheels work OK in my experience. The 110mm diameter off roader wheels I use on The Honey Badger 2.1 are reasonably meaty enough to give some, if not total, grip. However, keep them inboard as the softer plastic/rubber is prone to being ripped. You may find that the chassis won't stand up to the punishment though as is so you'll probably want to strengthen/adapt it to take heavy hits.

    What would you advise i aim for in regards to power? What amps, battery voltage etc
    As I say, mine runs at 13.2v but I am sure there are much higher voltages out there. I would have said 12v as a minimum was a good base point for a Featherweight. Amperage... depends on the motor and speed controllers being used. My previous featherweight ran sealed lead acid batteries with 2x 1.2aH batteries being "enough" to drive the robot but it was terribly weak.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  5. #5

    Is there any recommended minimum on the controller and receiver that I can tell if my nitro car controllers will be no good?

    Interchangable may be slightly above where im at at the moment! Although i love the idea. Or maybe 2 bots is better *rolls eyes*

    so ideally i’m looking for 15v+ to be comfortable and as for the batteries thats something ive got to learn for definite

  6. #6
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    Is there any recommended minimum on the controller and receiver that I can tell if my nitro car controllers will be no good?
    The rules state what sort of frequencies are allowed for specific weight classes and they have to be UK FCC complaint off the top of my head. 2.4GHz is the norm though.

    so ideally i’m looking for 15v+ to be comfortable and as for the batteries thats something ive got to learn for definite
    Though a factor, I'd not worry too much at this stage about voltages and so on though the more you know, the better prepared you are. It definitely go through the rules for fighting robots (http://www.fightingrobots.co.uk/docu...uild-Rules.pdf) and it'll start to make sense as to what is allowed and what isn't.
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  7. #7
    I'm almost certain that the controllers are 2.4ghz, hopefully they'll work.

    Thanks for your help Ocra, i'll take a look.

    My biggest concern isn't seeing what the rules are but more of what the robot needs within those rules, as it seems like it could be quite costly to keep upgrading parts, i'd like to buy a reasonabley good parts from the beginning.

  8. #8

  9. #9

  10. #10
    I am new to this too but I think a 5s LiPo a 6s would be overdriving them.

    The go to seems to be TZ85A often flashed for brushed but you need it as is. People use it with big bots so I assume it would be over powered for your application. There are plenty of options for programming them. Plus you could keep for larger bots. Plenty of Turnigy ESC to pick from if want smaller.
    Last edited by Deathly Hallows; 25th January 2018 at 08:12.

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