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Thread: Barróg - Featherweight Lifter Build Diary

  1. #41
    There's only a week to go until Mechatrons 2018
    Jeez, so there is. Better get my finger out!

  2. #42
    Just a few quick questions to ask concerning the machine and live events in general:

    1. I'm looking at using a 1-2mm 50mm long piece of stainless steel as a relatively lightweight wedge along the front for the event, chamfered at the sides and below at 45 degrees. Hopefully this drawing can explain better my idea. Would a wedge like this survive a 3 day non-spinner event relatively intact, or at least be repairable to the point of usefulness between bouts? Could I go lower than 2mm stainless steel, or should I go higher? Bear in mind weight and time is an issue for me, I'd ideally like to have a more long term setup for the future, but what can you do, right?



    2. I notice the tech check rules state that a machine needs to have some sort of cradle setup for holding. Until now I've been using large HDPE offcuts to keep Barróg's wheels off the ground. Would this fly at an event, and if not, would it be possible to simply build a frame out of wood to hold it off the ground? Would I need straps to hold it in place?

    3. Would the lifter require a locking bar? I know most pneumatic and kinetic weapons require them, but would an actuator require one as well?

    4. When I turn off the transmitter, everything in the machine comes to a halt. I know of the removable link rule, and the machine has it, but would the halting of everything in the machine via turning off the transmitter satisfy the failsafe rule?

    One last extra pic of the new revised lifter spines:

    Last edited by Shooty; 3rd January 2018 at 22:53.

  3. #43
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    To try and answer your queries:

    1. The Honey Badger ran a 1mm thick Aluminium door finger plate along the front of the HDPE wedge and that did OK when the plate was wholly on the wedge as it was supported. At the Maidstone 2017, I moved it forwards and put it on hinges much to the same effect as you plan and it buckled horribly. I could straighten it out with a hammer but really, I'd advise against it. Steel might be better but I don't think it'll stand up at 2mm.

    2. I use a wooden cradle with no straps and that has always been OK. It needs only to keep the robot off the ground and be stable enough so that if the drive wheels do spin, it doesn't come apart. Mine is very wide to allow for this.

    3. Ask the event organiser on that one. I recall Luna-Tic asking this for the FW championships in 2017 and RoboChallenge said they didn't but this is one of those times where the event organiser needs to determine this. However, if in doubt, assume it does.

    4. Yes. One of the tech checks is to check for exactly that (i.e loss of signal = no movement).
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  4. #44
    The Honey Badger ran a 1mm thick Aluminium door finger plate along the front of the HDPE wedge and that did OK when the plate was wholly on the wedge as it was supported. At the Maidstone 2017, I moved it forwards and put it on hinges much to the same effect as you plan and it buckled horribly. I could straighten it out with a hammer but really, I'd advise against it. Steel might be better but I don't think it'll stand up at 2mm.
    Interesting. I feel I should clarify though that with the steel piece, the top half of it is bolted on to the HDPE front as opposed to being hinged, sorry if the drawing didn't express that clearly. If you were able to use a 1mm piece of Aluminium scraping along the floor, then I assume that a 1mm piece of steel should hold up as well?

    I'll also get onto the event organizers concerning whether a locking bar is necessary or not; I can probably have it go through the front claws where they meet the front of the lifter, though I don't know if something will break or not should I operate it (front claws could be ripped up, gears in linac could break, etc.) It seems from what I've been reading on other build threads that FW lifters seem to get away with having no locking bar, but the "clamper" part of the robot's design may pose more of a health and safety concern.

  5. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Shooty View Post
    3. Would the lifter require a locking bar? I know most pneumatic and kinetic weapons require them, but would an actuator require one as well?
    Ask th EO but i would design it so you can in anycase, plus you could use the holes you need to drill as weight saveing.

  6. #46
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    If you were able to use a 1mm piece of Aluminium scraping along the floor, then I assume that a 1mm piece of steel should hold up as well?
    Hmm... The design of my hinged plate wasn't flat like you are proposing, I had added a bend into it prior to the event but even without it, I still seriously doubt it would have survived, even if it was Steel. I still think that this was because it wasn't supported by anything. Had the wedge followed the contours of the leading edge of the HDPE beneath, it might have stood up better.

    DSCF5881.JPGDSCF5887.JPG
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  7. #47
    Solid advice. Cheers for all of the info!

  8. #48
    I used a strip of mild steel for my robot in a similar way as you plan to here. It was 4mm and stood up perfectly well to non-spinners. Personally I wouldn't go less than 3mm. If you used 2mm you'd need several spares and could be spending lots of time straightening it out after matches. Is the front of your lifter touching the ground without this addition?

    Not sure if you'd get away with multiple little bits for a cradle - if you are tight on time you don't really have to build much though. My carrying cradle is just a thick, old wooden chopping board with big cut outs for the wheel area, so it looks like an I shape. If you have any chunky HDPE sheets leftover that you could fit between the wheels that would work too - so long as it's wide/long enough and the robot can't tip off it.

    To be on the safe side I would put some sort of locking bar on - due to the nature of your design it shouldn't be too difficult.

    Also what weight are your wheels? I personally haven't tried this yet, but I think at Insomnia there was several robots which had 4 holes drilled into the wheels in a square/diamond formation to cut down weight. Maybe try as a last resort?

    Barrog is looking great by the way - nice work!

  9. #49
    Ocracoke's Avatar
    Team Kaizen

    How did Barróg do at Mechatrons 2018? Did it make it in the end?
    Team Kaizen - Build Diary for all the robots

    AW: Amai, Ikari, Lafiel, Osu, Ramu
    BW: Shu!, The Honey Badger
    FW: Azriel
    MW: Jibril, Kaizen

  10. #50
    It made it. Videos are uploaded on the Team Ironclads YouTube page. Am currently making a build report video, should be out before the end of the month (if laziness doesn't take over...).

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