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Thread: Project Squirrel

  1. #71
    Outlaw's Avatar
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    Thanks Michael, but now I got more issues... always something with this damn robot, haha...

    Got three that immediately spring into the fray and are the most important, especially as 5 minutes ago I just dry tested it on top of the drill set I've been using to drill holes into the bot haha.

    1) How the hell does one make and mount wheels to drill motors? The ones I made, the counter helix screws keep unscrewing themselves and, therefore, the "wheels" keep falling off.

    2) I got the damn thing to move the motors, which makes me smile... the only problem is that they spin in opposite directions. I move the stick forward, the right motor moves forward, but the left one moves backwards. How do I get them to spin the same direction?

    3) Once I do that, how do I get the bloody thing to steer? Do I need to mix the signal in some way? And if so, how?

    I know it's a very shoddy representation, but this is what I'm working with...

    RC.png

    Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #72
    Ocracoke's Avatar
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    To address your questions directly:

    1) I can't really answer this one, I don't use drill motors per se (I use a pair of Gimson motors with matching hubs). I might suggest either some threadlock fluid or a nyloc nut though. I can't visualise how you've got them mounted. I definitely know the Featherweight version of Luna-Tic uses drill motors in this fashion though, might be worth asking cjsowry.

    2) I'd swap the + and - around on the motor going backwards. I was forever having this issue with The Honey Badger after a dry build so I use a pair of matching connectors on both wires to the motor. If I find it is going backwards, I can swap the connectors over. I have a feeling you may need to swap them at the motor terminal though as you use EC5 connectors (so de-solder and resolder them). There is also the very hacky move of cutting the wires in the middle and then soldering across (so the wire from the connector on the left would be soldered to the wire going to the motor on the right for example).

    3) I don't believe it is achievable in the setup you have at the moment. A channel can only really have three states; Up/Stop/Down. As you are sharing the signal between two speed controllers, they'll always either both go forwards or backwards. You need to have the speed controllers on separate channels.

    Early attempts at The Honey Badger came across this problem. I ended up using the side to side channels instead of the up/down channels (as one would stick since it was for helicopters) until I found a controller that had sprung up/down sticks on both sides (so tank controls).

    I think some controllers do support channel mixing as I looked this up when designing my Beetleweight but otherwise, it would be a Sabretooth or similar controller (which I know you've already tried) that you'd need. I must confess though, channel mixing is something I am pretty new to myself so I would defer this to someone more experienced.
    Last edited by Ocracoke; 20th September 2017 at 00:19.
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  3. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    snip.
    1) There is a couple of methods, a popular one to use something akin to thisUntitled.jpgjust slid in the gearbox and bolt down the holding block. simple but effective. (also add a block to hold the motor stable and it stops too much force being applied to the gearbox motor join point)

    2) Check the RX/TX. swaping the cable does work but getting to know your Tx/Rx system will help as some drill gearboxes run faster in one direction so knowing to adjust trim and limits will help there.


    3) Again check your Rx/Tx. If it has mixing capability then you can mix the to drive channels onto one stick so when you push forward you go forwards and etc
    Last edited by Maxamuslead; 20th September 2017 at 07:29. Reason: spelling

  4. #74
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    So I checked, and by the looks of things, the r/c doesn't have any mixing capabilities... well there goes that idea down the bleeding drain...

    So, if anyone has any suggestions for a Radio controller and receiver combo within that can mix at a decent price, then please let me know, and I'd really appreciate it.

    Also, tested to see if the lights work, and I think they require too much power for what I need from them, so I'm going to have to give roboteernat a nudge for them, haha.

  5. #75
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  6. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outlaw View Post
    snip
    If @Lowndsy mixer that he linked doesn't get what you want or you fancy not using a external mixer, you could get this RC kit.

    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...er-mode-1.html

    which i have got. I yet to use it in combat, but it is easy to mix and with some hacking able to use 8 channels (IIRC) rather then 6.
    Last edited by Maxamuslead; 22nd September 2017 at 14:13. Reason: spelling

  7. #77
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    And to add a third option into the mix, The Honey Badger doesn't use any mixing at all. I've got a transmitter that has has tank like controls on both sides (a bit like Panic Attack's original transmitter when you see it) though it does make going in a straight line a bit interesting if you don't push them both equally.

    My transmitter is a Carson Reflex Stick 2 but they are jolly expensive - £95 on eBay. I'd go with Maxamuslead's or lowndsy's advice on this one if I was starting over again
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  8. #78
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    I was originally going to use the tank mixer with a pistol grip remote to make it as hard to control and unpredictable as possible - sort of the Donald Trump approach.

    Then I got a cheap DX6i and figured it might be nice to have some sort of control...

  9. #79
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    I'm pretty sure most TXs have built in tank mixing now, my transmitter was pretty cheap and was still able to do it.

  10. #80
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    Well if I do go down the Nyloc nut route with the wheels, what'd be the best way of getting the nut into the HDPE? And when I measured the drill axle, I think it needs to be an M8 or M10 nut. Would this happen to be alright?

    Also, for clarification, I managed to get the controller that Maxamuslead put up. I'll just use the other controller for the weapon and give my friend something to use if we're both out there. :P

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