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Thread: Bolts - Featherweight Flail Bot

  1. #11
    Parts ordered and on their way. Here's a preview of what it should look like once the wheels are attached.
    First Look.jpg
    Once the parts arrive, we'll heat press the nuts into the wheels, attach then to the motors and fix them in place with lock nuts.
    Then we'll be able to give Bolts a first test drive before we start shaping the top to make the wedge.

  2. #12
    So, because we're getting closer to having Bolts in driving condition, we'll very soon be in the place where the wedge is in place and it's technically "battle ready" (in the sense that it could enter an arena and last 3 seconds), I'm looking at what to add to the outside of the wood as an extra layer of armour.
    In another build diary, I remember reading something about 10mm HDPE being pretty good against most axe/hammer bots. Would this be enough, or would we be better spending the extra cash and weight on metal armour? If so, which metals and how thick do you recommend?

  3. #13
    10mm HDPE will hold out most hammers and axes in the featherweight class. For heavies, 30mm ain't enough.

    If you go metal armor in the featherclass. The least I can advice is 3.2mm hardox 450, and if you can afford it (weight or money), thicker. If money is a problem, you can try thicker in normal steel.
    If weight is an issue, I can advice HDPE, or else , with enough funds, titanium.

  4. #14
    So what thickness of HDPE is enough for heavies, if 30mm isn't?

  5. #15
    Thanks for the info.
    Chances are we'll go with HDPE this time for money reasons. Hopefully, if this design performs well, it'll be worth the investment into Hardox for the next version.

  6. #16
    No idea how thick is thick enough.
    But if I find a way to form a 30mm shell in 1 piece, that will be an experiment worth the trouble.

  7. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by maddox10 View Post
    No idea how thick is thick enough.
    But if I find a way to form a 30mm shell in 1 piece, that will be an experiment worth the trouble.
    Vacuum bags around a cast mould perhaps? Kinda like mixing wet lay ups with resin casting

  8. #18
    The top panel is hinged at the back with gate hinges. The back should hopefully be avoiding most of the damage and the metal will help strengthen the wood, whilst making it easier to access the internals.
    Now we finally have a good idea what the wooden top panel looks like.
    Wedge.jpg
    Bolts currently weighs in at 8.2kg, meaning we still have 5.4kg to play with.
    I know for a fact we still have to shape and attach the side panels. Then order the 10mm HDPE to make the added armour and shape the wedge into the point.
    If we still have the weight left over, we're hoping to get an aluminium front wedge piece machined (we don't have the equipment to do it ourselves) to strengthen the front.

  9. #19
    We've been test driving Bolts around a little and noticed something I hadn't expected.
    Bolts often struggles to turn. Forwards and backwards works fine, and turning works fine when held in the air with no weight on the wheels, it just struggles to actually turn while driving.
    I'm thinking this is because the centre of mass is too far forward, meaning all the weight is too far in front of the motors and wheels.

    Am I thinking along the right lines? And what should I do to fix it?

    Our first thought was to stick a ball bearing in the front to reduce the friction and push needed to move the front. Would this work? And is there a better way to fix it?

  10. #20
    As your turning you have effectively a wedge trying to stick into the ground on the front edge of the wedge. try just smoothing over slightly the edge of the wedge so that as you turn, they ride over the ground.
    You may find driving forwards also gets the front stuck at places, but as its a v shape it helps it ride over

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