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Thread: Luna-Tic improvments

  1. #21
    not really, it wears out quick,

  2. #22
    no, threads do not hold in HDPE, most people just use wood screws or machine screws to screw panels together.
    althought US site: http://www.societyofrobots.com/materials_hdpe.shtml

  3. #23
    Yeah, it'll hold woodscrews, but not really bolts or anything with a thinner thread.

  4. #24
    HDPE doesn't hold a thread. Better to use barrel and/or crown nuts.
    Or the old and trusted angle/bolt/nut combination.

  5. #25
    yes, i went to add bolts are best but got distracted with actual work stuff bolts and angle are the way to go

  6. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by R9000 View Post
    Despite the arcin' and sparkin', I expect I'll stay with the fuse link until it gives me any trouble. I just find it particularly efficient because my designs tend to be quite compact, and having a two-in-one saves on space and failure points. How in the world did a spark from a 5s break your Anderson connector?

    Glad to hear your motors are fine though.
    Think it was a 30amp connector, only tested it with the three speed controllers... no motors plugged in. Massive spark and the inner bit has vanished with a nice melted plastic patch on the outside. Father-in-law thought it might be charging some capacitor in the esc's....?? I just looked blankly at him and nodded! lol. Annoying, as it was some of my best soldering work to date....... ordered a 175amp Anderson now. if its too big I can use for the heavy Luna-tic anyway.

    drilled the screws out and once it bit, they came straight out. can't use them again, but I don't plan to anyway.

  7. #27
    Ahh I can see why a 30-amp might have been cooked. Still it's strange, capacitors only normally release all their charge that quickly when you bridge the contacts together. Hope the new link works out.

  8. #28
    Capacitor charging can cause some startling sparks but shouldn't really melt connectors. Rather than use huge Andersons (which I found to be terrible for spark suppression), have a look at the Hobbyking XT90 connectors with built-in suppression resistors - much smaller & lighter than the Andersons and they really work.

  9. #29
    that was my back up. The xt60 was "fine" but I wanted the connecter mounted to the chassis and pulling it out I often pulled the wire and the soldering came loose. With the Andersons they have the bolt hopes, so I can attach a strap making it easier to remove!! we'll see. Need an Anderson for the heavy so its not wasted money!! thank you.

  10. #30

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