Luna-Tic improvments

**maddox10** · 29th April 2017, 04:38

A "normal" batterydrill drive uses a 3/8 UNF nut on the shaft thread, and an M5 left bolt in the hole. The bigger batterydrills use sleightly larger threads, but those I never had to use (helped Ellis with 1 tough).

EC and XT connectors can be bolted , with a well drilled 3mm hole.

For structural HDPE, with good connecting methodes and well used bracing, 5mm could do.
Decent spinners will rip trough, but with enough airgat between armor and vurnable parts, that's no problem.

Team RCC's feathers use a T frame. A steel backbone where all the parts are mounted on, and the armor is "draped" over that. Is that Hardox or HDPE, nothing enough bolts can solve.
Why steel? Ali wasn't the best option, as Hannibalito 4 has proven, and titanium in that shape is way beyond our wallet.

If stiffness is an issue, and weight so you would have to use 4mm or thinner ali, you always can look to glassfiber filled nylon.

**cjsowry** · 29th April 2017, 06:32

"well drilled" and me in the same sentence. Lol. I'll order an Anderson, need one or two for the heavy anyway. Google Garys Anderson loop thing. Failing that, try to drill a well placed hole in a XT90. Thank you all. Lots of parts ordered, finalised the new design last night. Looks much more sleeker and modern. Am worried about weight, but we'll cross that bridge when we get too it.

**cjsowry** · 29th April 2017, 06:40

Sorry, powerloop! And they look spot on.

**cjsowry** · 29th April 2017, 17:47

HELP...... I have two of the left handed thread screws stuck... One I managed to get the wheel off the hex nut and was then able to remove the motor. The other is not moving and the head is wearing away fast. Any suggestions? Without drilling it out, as the motor and gear box are both still good!!

**R9000** · 29th April 2017, 19:22

Grab it with a big pair of grips and twist? If your screw head is really going bald, you can take a hacksaw and saw a slot in the top for a flat-bladed screwdriver. But I wouldn't use that slot to try and remove the screw now, I'd still use the grips.

**cjsowry** · 29th April 2017, 20:58

its quite sunken into the wheel. tried rubber band, hammering, little drilling. think I might have to get a screw extractor, but will that work with a left handed thread!?

Think I've thought of a way... but too late now. kids are asleep.

**R9000** · 29th April 2017, 21:41

I'm sure there's a reverse-thread screw extractor for that size. You'd end up ruining your screw though. Hopefully you manage without.

**cjsowry** · 4th May 2017, 22:37

Screws are out, motors are saved. But soldered up the Anderson powerloop, tested it out and the spark buggered it. So back to the drawing board with the link. Rory are you planing to keep using the fuse as the link or opting for something better?!?!

**R9000** · 5th May 2017, 01:00

Despite the arcin' and sparkin', I expect I'll stay with the fuse link until it gives me any trouble. I just find it particularly efficient because my designs tend to be quite compact, and having a two-in-one saves on space and failure points. How in the world did a spark from a 5s break your Anderson connector?

Glad to hear your motors are fine though.