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Thread: Unnamed FW crusher build diary

  1. #61
    Is there any chance that during a crush and the beak doesn't penetrate then effectively the wedge would drive upwards. Perhaps this would then be using the wheels as the pivot point and you are cracking the drive screws?

  2. #62
    Al_'s Avatar
    Member

    The wedge does pick up to the underside of whatever it is crushing but a lot of the weight of that still remains on the ground. I mean it would increase the forces on the wheel axles I think, but I'm guessing by a lot less than if the bot was flipped into the air and landed wheel first for example. I don't think it had much to do with it in this case though, I was only driving it around, not crushing anything at the time.

  3. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by Al_ View Post
    Is there any chance you could drop me a link for the longer LH screws please? I got this spare out of an old dead battery drill, but if I break this one too then I'm out of them.
    Sorry, couldn't find the M5 size ones on Amazon any more, but I think this is the same seller on ebay - same location (Germany) with the same flat shipping fee that applies once per order, not item.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-X-30-MM...gAAOSwuxFYz9Z5

    They do a 35mm length version too

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by lowndsy View Post
    Sorry, couldn't find the M5 size ones on Amazon any more, but I think this is the same seller on ebay - same location (Germany) with the same flat shipping fee that applies once per order, not item.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M5-X-30-MM...gAAOSwuxFYz9Z5

    They do a 35mm length version too

    There are also these options:
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-4-Steel-...gAAOSw5cNYZPGa

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Genui...kAAOSwo4pYTTIL

    and more from those sellers. The amazon seller does not have those screws in stock at the moment - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Left-Lockin.../dp/B003S7U30E

  5. #65
    Al_'s Avatar
    Member

    Thank you for all the suggestions regarding the snapped screw. I got to take a good look at the drive on Pressure Point over the weekend to try and figure out the reason for it snapping. The only difference between the 2 sides that I could find was on the side where the screw snapped, there was a bit of debris created from melting the 3/8UNF piece into the wheel. This was stopping the 3/8unf piece from screwing all the way up to the shoulder on the gearbox output shaft by about 1mm. The wheel was still pulled on hard against this, but maybe it was causing the problem. Anyway I have cleaned it up and now it screws on all the way up to the shoulder like the other side, so hopefully this will sort it.

    While checking the drive/wheels over, I noticed that I had some odd behaviour going on with the mixing for the drive. I have both channels mixed to the right hand stick on the Tx as I think is pretty normal. The idea being that forwards on the stick gives me forwards on both wheels, backwards gives me backwards on both wheels, left put the LH wheel in reverse and the RH wheel in forwards and so on. For some reason pushing forward on the stick makes the LH wheel turn much harder and faster than the RH wheel which would make the bot turn to the right. In a similar but opposite way, pushing backwards on the stick makes the RH wheel turn much harder and faster than the LH wheel, which would also make the bot go in a curve. However, pushing either left or right on the stick makes the wheels turn at the same rate but in opposite directions as you would expect. Video below to better show what I am trying to explain



    I have checked over everything I can think of and I’m fairly sure that the problem lies with how I have the mixing set up as the problem is not specific to just 1 Rx Channel, 1 motor or 1 ESC. I’m running a Spektrum DX6 with a lemon Rx and modded TX85A ESCs, so if anyone has any suggestions I would be very grateful. I’ll add the mixing settings I have on the TX to the post as soon as I can.

    Other than the above I have started getting the armour mounted with most of the right hand side done. There are some rough edges to sort and the fixings need a bit of work, but it gives you an idea of the general look.

    Pic 1.jpgPic 2.jpg

  6. #66
    Just to let you know, im expecting a quote for various length LH M5 screws from our bolt supplier, will let you know when it comes


    EDIT The cost of the bolts for 100 25mm, 100 30mm and 100 35mm bolts came to a price of around £1400, as these are usually custom made to order. This was a quote from a very large supplier too. I guess thats the reason they cost so much!
    Last edited by Roboteernat; 10th May 2017 at 11:39.

  7. #67

  8. #68
    Al_'s Avatar
    Member

    Ah! It never occurred to me about the motors being wound with a bias for operation in one direction. That makes perfect sense, particularly for drills and fits with the symptoms I'm seeing here. I knew it would be something obvious I was missing.

    I'll re-bind anyway just to be sure but otherwise just trim it out as best I can and learn to live with it. Thanks David, at lease I can concentrate on finishing it now instead of fixing another problem!

  9. #69

  10. #70
    Update on the price for LH screws...

    The cost of the bolts for 100 25mm, 100 30mm and 100 35mm bolts came to a price of around £1400, as these are usually custom made to order. This was a quote from a very large supplier too. I guess thats the reason they cost so much!

    I am going to get an M5 lh die and machine my own from M6 bolts i think...
    Will see if i can do it and maybe have some to sell...
    Last edited by Roboteernat; 10th May 2017 at 11:47.

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