I agree, I intend to upgrade before putting PC Plod back into combat. Thanks for the recommendations.
The Sabertooth will likely be moved into a prototype featherweight as and when it gets designed and built.
Looking at the way the front of the robot is designed, the weapon would be entirely ineffective in combat with the bots being so close to the ground. So, we've decided, in an attempt in avoid having to redesign the chassis, to redesign the front plate setup. This should reduce the ground clearance and provide a ramp to force the opposing bot into the spinner.
This is how it looks in a first draft out of scrap metal:
IMG_1311.JPG
And here's a drive test with the draft front:
https://www.facebook.com/TeamTheScra...88734953835798
After attaching the weapon motor/weapon mount, we're struggling to see how the old cutting disk was mounted. Our original guess was that the holes in the front of the mount were where the disk was mounted and it was belt driven.
However, the largest disk that could fit (it's against the bottom plate) barely shows out of the front panel. Meaning that it's useless as a weapon, unless an opponent drives all the way up the front, and even then it would barely scratch the bottom of the opposition.
Any ideas?
Photo 7.jpgPhoto 8.jpgPhoto 9.jpg
So, we have absolutely no idea how to mount the weapon. As I said before, the biggest disk that would fit only extends out the front of the bot by a few millimetres. Explained in this video:
https://www.facebook.com/TeamTheScra...0165626710589/
So we're either going to have to change the weapon mounting system entirely, or change the weapon into something different entirely. And considering my personal preference of 'control weapons' such as clamps, crushers or lifters. It looks like we're going that route.
PC Plod's current weapon system is useless. So we're going to design a new one. Which weapon systems should we make designs for?
http://www.strawpoll.me/12980979
Finally got around to making a SketchUp model of PC Plod's chassis. As well as writing a physical list of the current planned upgrades.
PC Plod Chassis.jpg
Upgrades
1. Replace wheelchair motors.2. Replace lead acid batteries with LiPo packs.
3. Replace Sabertooth speed controller, possibly with BotBitz.
4. Increase armour holding bolts from M5, possibly to M10.
5. Replace current aluminium armour with Hardox.
6. Change the front wedge to a 35-40 degree angle.
7. Replace the current weapon system with a modular design.
If you can think of any more upgrades we might need to do, please do let us know.
Updated Upgrades Plan + Questions
1. New motors will be 2x Ampflow E30 - 150 Gearmotors. Does anyone have experience with these particular motors? Would we be better saving up the extra money and going for the Mid-Range or High-Performance motors?
2. Not having used LiPo packs before, we don't really know what we're looking for. The team Danby site says Foxic 3 runs off of 8s 10ah Lithium Polymer. Would something like this (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-...lipo-pack.html) be similar/appropriate, ignoring the 5ah instead of 10ah? We're planning on using a separate battery for each side drive.
3. Botbitz – 30a Brushed ESCs are the planned replacement for the Sabertooth. Currently they're out of stock on ranglebox and have been for a while. Does anyone know if/when they'll be back in stock? Or will we have to ship them in direct from BotBitz?
4. Increasing the bolts from M5 to M10 is still the plan, providing they're not too wide and don't weaken the chassis too much.
5. Hardox seems to be the necessary armour in the modern arena, so that's what we're going with. We're going to go with thicker on the panels on the front half of the robot, slightly thinner on the back, top and bottom. How thick do people usually make their Hardox? And where is a reliable place to get it cut/machined?
6. The front wedge changes have been modelled in SketchUp:
New Wedge Chassis.png
We'll likely stick with the 25mm box steel that makes up the current chassis, meaning less changes have to be made to the rest of the chassis.
7. This is the most difficult one to do, because a modular design has to be relatively easy to switch out without taking the entire bot apart to do it. We'll happily take advice from anyone who has built or even considered building a modular system.
Last edited by callumhoy; 27th May 2017 at 12:33. Reason: Grammar
Last time I checked, Botbitz 30As aren't even enough for most featherweight. In fact, 85As will only just be enough for wheelchair motors, let alone ampflows.
We've also been looking at the RageBridge 2 and the Robot Power Vyper. Likely to go for the Vyper, depending on costs.
2) For working out how much LiPo capacity you need, best way is to figure out what your maximum draw will be and then get enough LiPo to run that for 5 min.
3) best to ask Ellis about that
4) M10 is a must, you can never have enough bolts. Also if you have the room then shock mounting your armour is a good idea, for example Beta is a good bot to look at regarding armour.
5) Even Hardox is getting torn to shreds by the likes of Carbide and Aftershock, but its the best price-weight-strength combination at the moment. Most people (including myself) get it waterjet cut by KCut https://k-cut.co.uk/
As for thickness I think most bots are running with 4-8mm depending on location, eg 4mm side and back, 6mm top, 8mm front wedge. But it really depends on your design.
6) I think you might want to put some cross beams in to support the bars on either side of the wedge like this: New Wedge Chassis.png
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