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Thread: New HW design - Omni Wheels and 30kW spinner

  1. #71
    Typhoon 2 used a 1000A military grade connector that retails around the £1000 mark (probably more with inflation and brexit in the decade and a bit since). But failing something like that, your other options should handle more than enough current. If you are drawing 600A in any continuous fashion then I would expect either your fuses to pop on the lipo or your wiring to melt.

  2. #72
    Quote Originally Posted by typhoon_driver View Post
    Typhoon 2 used a 1000A military grade connector that retails around the £1000 mark (probably more with inflation and brexit in the decade and a bit since). But failing something like that, your other options should handle more than enough current. If you are drawing 600A in any continuous fashion then I would expect either your fuses to pop on the lipo or your wiring to melt.
    Just a bit out of our price range then... Probably going to use a bunch of XT90 then, or make our own ones that can handle it.

    We will be using 8awg for the connection between esc and the batteries.

    The ratings on our batteries are rather silly. They are 5.4Ah 12S LiHV rated at 65-135C (350-730A). We have 2S2P for them so theoretically could sustain 700A continuous and 1460A burst at 52.2V. So the theoretical peak power is 76.2kW (102HP) lol.

    Obviously those numbers are crazy and we will probably be closer to 300A for all motors.

  3. #73
    I back Alex's P90 recommendation but make sure you rate them conservatively. I just had a motor burn-out where the motor was connected with an MT60 connector; the connector looks OK but the plastic melted internally and fused the connector together - really not what you want in a power link!

  4. #74
    Quote Originally Posted by overkill View Post
    I back Alex's P90 recommendation but make sure you rate them conservatively. I just had a motor burn-out where the motor was connected with an MT60 connector; the connector looks OK but the plastic melted internally and fused the connector together - really not what you want in a power link!
    I will probably use either 2 per motor or make my own connectors with 8mm bullets and a 3d printed/milled case.

  5. #75
    Good idea - adding a printed back shell to the XT90 connectors make them muck easier to grip. I use a printed base for the connectors as well, it make mounting them so much easier.

  6. #76
    So recovering from the shell shock of Robot Wars being in 7 weeks...

    I have been working on the armor design and weapon.

    Armor Plan.png

    I am struggling to find a way to protect the skateboard wheels that doesn't leave large areas of armor flapping in the wind.

    This is the idea at the moment.

    There is a 8mm aluminium plate that forms part of the chassis, we then shockmount a 5mm hardox400 plate to it and weld on pieces round the side at 45 degrees, this should form a strong shape and help to deflect any spinners that attack us before the weapon is spinning. It also helps defect any axe/hammer blows from hitting the ring and potentially bending it.

    We will weld 2 10mm hardox400 teeth to the ring which are bent at 45 degrees to defeat any flippers, this plays with the angled armor to make it hard to get under us without being hit. It should also hopefully mean we hit any spinners either horizontal or vertical in a way they are not built for.

    Any thoughts?

  7. #77
    Anyone?

  8. #78
    10mm hardox teeth will bend on the first impact. I'd thicken them up.

    It's difficult to tell how you have positioned them but I'd take a look at the teeth on Typhoon 2. Two big chunky main teeth and then two smaller ground skimmers.

    As far as your 5mm hardox goes, bending it around into a ring will be somewhat of a nightmare unless there is some tooling you have to hand that we aren't aware of?

    With this design you have to remember that you are attempting something that has rarely been done and even then it's rarely been done well so it's experimentation as much as anything else.

  9. #79
    The angled 5mm armour skirts would need a fancy multi-axis rolling machine or a large hydraulic press with a custom jig in order to get the cone shape. The option of welding many small tabs together to simulate the cone shape is much lower-tech but all that welding is going to destroy the heat treating. I'd go with a vertical ring; its going to be MUCH easier to fabricate.

    I'm no expert on HW armour, but if 5mm hardox is just enough for featherweights, then a HW spinner is probably going to rip it to shreds, particularly if there is an unsupported edge it can catch. The best defence is the massive ring, even when it isn't spinning; I would try to keep the 5mm armour recessed behind that as much as possible so that vertical spinners can't get at it so easily.

    I don't think the angled teeth will make much of a difference to other spinners. The lower tooth is going to do all the work against wedges and sloped armour - it could be very effective if it's built strong enough. How about offsetting the upper & lower teeth by 90 degrees around the ring? That may reduce warping and loss of hardness by spreading out the welding.

  10. #80
    Thanks for the advice guys!

    I will switch to a vertical ring using the material left over from the main ring 35mm. The reason for the rather flimsy armor there is to stop the ring getting mangled like The Ringmaster, although their ring wasn't hardened. I would rather a piece of armor gets mangled than the £1000 ring.

    And split the teeth so we have 4 total and increase them to 35mm. We need it to be the same on both sides in the event that we get flipped and to help balance the ring. I really don't want any teeth that go straight out from the ring, since if one of those gets hit by a v. spinner it will probably bend the ring and throw us flying at the same time.

    I realize this is all uncharted territory, so it's going to be really interesting what happens! Hopefully we get picked...

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