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Thread: Team Health & Safety - First Time Builder

  1. #61
    Zenith's Avatar
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    Greg Cathalina
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    Alright, thanks for your help. This morning I hooked them through, soldered them up and shrinkwrapped them, with the end result looking like this:

    IMG_20170713_123526.jpg

    Tested it as well, and the setup is indeed fine. Very nice!

    This conveniently brings me to two further conundrums. The first one is regarding the link:

    IMG_20170713_135246.jpg

    I'm thoroughly puzzled as to how to mount it in such a way the socket doesn't move upon the link being removed or put in. Currently it's just floating around, which needs to be addressed. But how? I tried screwing it in, but it kept moving about.

    Conundrum number two is regarding placement of the receiver.

    IMG_20170713_135523.jpg

    Current placement has it ~very~ snug between the right motor mount and the servo, but I fear this will make it rather susceptible to shock damage. It's mounted on velcro so some movement is possible from front to back, but sideways it can't go anywhere.

    IMG_20170713_142028.jpg

    Alternatively, I also turned it around to give the antenna more room, and I also placed it on its side. This removes the problem of it having no space to move laterally, but then it leaves not that much space for the antenna.

    So what is wise?

  2. #62
    Zenith's Avatar
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    Greg Cathalina
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    This is bordering on spam to such an extend I expect Monty Python to walk through the door and ask me what I'd like for breakfast.

    Anyways, with the innards being pretty much complete at this point I sought to solve some niggles that popped up.

    First item on the agenda was actually getting everything to fit in the rather crammed space. Now, I will admit that I didn't really design the thing around the parts I had available (as it is, I had to change my battery simply because the other one wouldn't have enough space)

    After carefully nudging everything towards the little blobs of emptiness dotted around the chassis, this is what it looked like:

    IMG_20170714_161316.jpg

    Okay, that's very good... but does the top plate also fit?

    IMG_20170714_160844.jpg

    Why ofcourse! This immediately brought my attention to a new problem, mainly the lipo being a nosy little shit and peeking through the lifter slot like a toddler wondering where those strange noises are coming from.

    IMG_20170714_172340.jpg

    There, that's better. Stay in your room Timmy, we'll explain when you're a teenager.

    Second item on the agenda was the socket for the removable link. It was still floating around, which meant that when you took out the link part of the electronics would move with the link. Yes, I know we're all friends here guys, but sometimes it's time to let go.

    IMG_20170715_095537.jpg

    A few tie rips did the trick. Best part is that the back end will be covered by the wheelguard anyway, so these things should be safe.

    Now, time for a weigh-in!

    IMG_20170713_205046.jpg

    Gosh, that's right on the money for some tasty upgrades I'd say. I have a few more ideas, but for now, here's This Is Not A Drill in its current form:

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Zenith; 15th July 2017 at 08:15.

  3. #63
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    Greg Cathalina
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    Today was the first day of actual testing, and there immediately was a problem.

    IMG_20170716_141829.jpg

    Testing alongside Bob Saget (another of our Dutch Euro entries) the two 1000rpm motors seemed badly underpowered, with This Is Not A Drill only really able to move about slowly. With a little help though, I came to realize that yes, ofcourse 12V motors are going to have lackluster performance if you use a 2S LiPo. Borrowing the 3S LiPo from Bob Saget seemed to bring it to life, so hopefully this is the biggest hurdle to overcome in the final few weeks until the Euros.

    I aim to redo some of the internals (some connections seem to have loosened up more than I like) as well as getting the lifter finally on there. I don't need to do much for that, but all in all it is also a job that can end up taking more time than anticipated.

    In the mean time, I also set to work with external properties of my monstrosity.

    IMG_20170716_082603.jpg

    Gotta love matte finish on metal - it almost looks like the wedge is also made of plastic.

    As it is though, my goal here is simply to get it functional and entertain. I've already learned so much through building this thing that I can't wait to put my newly found knowledge to work in a possible next installment.

    But first you will have to suffer through a bit more of my mediocrity ofcourse. Muaahahaha!

  4. #64
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    Greg Cathalina
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    Oooooh good evening ladies and germs, have we got a show for you tonight!

    I must admit that after testing yesterday, I felt rather dejected. The bot never seemed to struggle at all driving around at home, but once I tested it in the arena with the wedges on, it had quite a rough going. Ofcourse, the arena in question had a rough plywood floor scarred by feather, raptor and heavyweight fights, but compared to how other beetles drove around I felt it needed to fare much better than it did.

    Lending a 3S battery seemed to solve much of the niggles, but still I felt uncomfortable. Part of me was already looking where it had gone wrong (as it turns out, I didn't go for the 25mm 1000rpm motors but for a smaller variety) and even contemplated a rebuild.

    but today, I chose to grit my teeth and soldier on, determined to find out whether I could find out what was the matter.

    The first issue was mixing. I want to drive with 1 stick, but presently, forward is North West and backwards is South East. As it is, the Spektrum DXe can only be programmed with a special cable which sets you back over 20 pounds. Ouch, but alright, that should be no biggy.

    Second issue was the drive. When going forward the left seemed to lag behind, so I ran through the internals. As it turned out, one of the motor connections was loose, so I resoldered it and that was that.

    Aside from the switch to MOAR POWAH I also learned another simply trick from other teams. You see, my link is rather far into the bot, which makes prying it out quite fiddly.

    IMG_20170717_153022.jpg

    Easy enough - just attach a tie rip at the end. Job done. Check out my color coding too - a mindnumbing nerdgasm.

    IMG_20170717_153311.jpg

    Much better.

    IMG_20170717_220155.jpg

    Now, when it comes to the insides I'm pretty much done at this point. Ofcourse, there's going to be a bigger battery in there (which I already fitted and well... it fits) and the servo prong will be longer and made from aluminium.

    IMG_20170717_213209.jpg

    This did mean though that after a year of tinkering and save for a few minor alterations (and a BANGING PAINTJOB OFCOURSE), This Is Not A Drill was done.

    IMG_20170717_220350.jpg

    The inside of the lifter, and everything seems to fit just so. Let's have a hurray for Cardboard Assisted Design! I'm still contemplating on running an extra arm between the servo and lifter arm for more power, but this really hinges on how the aluminium prongs will do. I'd rather not physically attach the lifter to the servo if I can help it, simply to avoid shock damage finding its way inside.

    IMG_20170717_222011.jpg

    There's weight enough for it though - it's 1200g in its lightest setup (with a few bolts missing, so 1250g to be safe).

    However, there was still one thing eating away at my brain. How would it drive with all the titanium in place, as heavy as it will probably have to be in September? I chose a smooth floor, and hoped for the best.

    You be the judge. Bear in mind that this still is with 2S.



    I need to still do some work on the other anti-spinner setup (that requires a shorter lifter blade) and I'm probably going to engineer some kind of a belly-pan to make sure all of you drum spinners don't eat the screws that are protruding underneath.

    And I can go crazy with the paint too! Wheeeeeee!

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