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Thread: Team Health & Safety - First Time Builder

  1. #41
    Looking good! That LED seems far too bright though. What colour is it, and what voltage are you running it at?

  2. #42
    there are some strong LED out there.
    Myself i am looking at a 3W one from hobby king

    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/super-br...-heatsink.html

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by R9000 View Post
    Looking good! That LED seems far too bright though. What colour is it, and what voltage are you running it at?
    Cheers! In reality the LED is fine - I'm running it at 7.4v and no real problems. It's a yellow LED.

  4. #44
    7.4V is waaaay too high for a yellow LED, unless you have a resistor in series, or multiple LEDs. I thought it looked a bit of an odd colour. Single yellow LEDs only go up to about 2.2V. You do run the risk of burning it out if you have got it set up with the full 7.4V over the LED.

  5. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by R9000 View Post
    7.4V is waaaay too high for a yellow LED, unless you have a resistor in series, or multiple LEDs. I thought it looked a bit of an odd colour. Single yellow LEDs only go up to about 2.2V. You do run the risk of burning it out if you have got it set up with the full 7.4V over the LED.
    Ofcourse there's a resistor in series. That's Page 1 in the Great Western-European Almanac of LED Soldering!

    I am probably going to add other LEDs in the actual robot, just for redundancy.
    Last edited by Zenith; 5th June 2017 at 20:52.

  6. #46

  7. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by Zenith View Post
    Ofcourse there's a resistor in series. That's Page 1 in the Great Western-European Almanac of LED Soldering!

    I am probably going to add other LEDs in the actual robot, just for redundancy.
    Ah, phew. Sorry, it's just I've had LEDs explode at lower voltages than that. :P

  8. #48
    I might actually be coming to the point where it's starting to look like something.

    You see, I seem to have picked up this rather frustrating habit of continuously improving the design during, or after, construction. This saw me do the usual Design > Cut > Assemble routine, but with an added "Gee that looks good... but it would be even better if - " which would lead to a repeat of said cycle.

    So here's a timeline for you guys - I started off with this, the chassis from the last update:

    IMG_20170604_161938.jpg

    "Oh Gee, those front prongs just seem a bit flimsy. Why not beef those up?

    IMG_20170608_124612.jpg

    "That's better. Now the mounts for the wedge have twice as much plastic and twice as many screws. Approved."

    IMG_20170608_124638.jpg

    The beauty of interlocking construction occurred to me again - this H profile isn't held together by any screws (the nutstrips are bolted to single pieces of plastic but do not to protrude into others), but just by slotting the plastic together in such a way that it's snug. Once again I threw this through the room, and it didn't budge.

    But then there was the matter of the back-end. That was going to be simply screwed on, but now I had the hang of interlocking stuff, why not go all the way?

    IMG_20170614_205142.jpg

    *sigh* allright then.

    I made the side rails a bit longer, and cut out a slot big enough to accommodate both the back end and the wheel guards. This way, also the wheel guards would be locked in place.

    IMG_20170615_122743.jpg

    And wouldn't you know it, it worked. Not a single bit of glue or metal, and yet room-throw proof. Solid as a rock.

    With all this going on, I also got delivery of some of the innards, which led to some weighing. First, the chassis, bolted up and everything.

    IMG_20170615_173428.jpg

    Oh ain't life grand. With wheels, motors, servo, ESCs, receiver and the like added the tally is 726g, which gives me about half of the weight limit left for, titanium top- and baseplate, wedge and lifter mechanism. Things are well and truly getting interesting now.

    When it comes to the lifter though I'm still very much in doubt as to how it'll go about. I like being able to drive upside down, and if I were to join the Front Hinge Master Race that would be a more likely possibility than as a Rear-Hinged Peasant. Given the notorious amount of spinner evilness lurking around these lands I'd rather not open up my juicy innards to one of them every time I open it up.

    Anyway, after some further deliberation I finally did a proper mock-up. using some paper cut outs as Titanium stand-ins.

    IMG_20170615_190127.jpg

    Don't be mistaken though - the end result will not be as much as a blanc canvas (or tabula rasa if you're posh) as this. When it comes to the theme, I'm very much sticking to the one discussed at the start of this thread. I've sketched a bit over the past week, and the retarded cackling spawned by my maniacalities disturbed my SO and sibling to such an extend I hope you Brits are going to enjoy the end result in two and half months.

    Crikey it's just two and a half months. Best get going then!

  9. #49
    Hi everybody! Glad you joined us to celebrate in my radiant mediocrity! Yay!

    Construction is slowly pacing along. First, I got the dimensions in for what is to become the primary line of defense: the 2mm grade 5 Titanium façades, here mocked up in cardboard.

    IMG_20170616_225911.jpg

    To me it seems a good idea to alternate wedges - this would be more of a design to face other lifters or rambots...

    IMG_20170616_232921.jpg

    ...whereas this one has a more "WOMEN AND CHILDREN FIRST"-tone to it, inspired by Ziggy/Lucky. I'm aiming to have both setups available during the Euros, plus probably another 'ZOMG ZOMBIES'-wedge for a laugh.

    Anyways, I seem to be fast approaching the point where I'm happy with the chassis, and the job is now to get the insides in proper shape. I mean, it's nice if I build a brick, but it'd be grand if it would move as well (and keep moving whilst we're at it).

    This led to more soldering. The Euros require three main things when it comes to electronics - a power light (check!), a removable link (check!) and a fuse.

    Now, I'll be squeezing in a 1300mAh 40C LiPo in there, so if my math is correct the fuse should be somewhere below 52A (f my math is not correct, feel free to comment, point, and laugh). I have two kinds at my disposal, but decided in the end to go with a 40A fuse.

    Having a fuse is all fine and groovy, but it needs to get in there properly as well. I'm soldering novice at best, so cue my gallery of embarassment!

    IMG_20170619_173602.jpg

    Fuse marries wire. Such novice, much noob. Wow.

    IMG_20170622_092138.jpg

    After changing out the solder gun for a proper iron, I set out to work on those mythical XT60 plugs. I reckoned that if I were to learn soldering properly, wiring these up is going to improve my skills a lot better.

    IMG_20170622_094544.jpg

    But every learning curve starts at zero. You can almost hear a faint 'Killl..... mee" coming from this shambolic attempt at a removable link (I'll have you know though that the wires were in there solid as a rock, but as Quasimodo will tell you that doesn't matter if you look disfigured)

    IMG_20170622_102307.jpg

    The socket went a bit better. Redid the removable link, and there we are.

    IMG_20170622_112127.jpg

    Did a socket for the battery, and added a fuse. Just like in a motorbike (or car) the fuse should be the first halt after the battery I reckon.

    IMG_20170622_114536.jpg

    From right to left: power socket, fuse, removable link, and somewhere in the future I'll be adding an LED light to that.

    If anything though I'm regarding this as a practice setup of sorts - apart from the fuse and the battery plug, everything is subject to change. Once I can finally mount a baseplate in the chassis I'll be mocking up the insides, and measuring up the wiring just so there won't be any waste of space. This is quite important as, even though the bot itself is quite wide, the inside is a tad cramped.

    If anyone has a suggestion for placement of the removable link (as in, where to best put it on the bot) I'm all ears. I'm probably not going to use the XT60 as a link as the small BEC plugs are just more suitable to work with - the bulky XT60s just take up too much space.

    If you've got anything else to share, suggest or ask I'm all ears too by the way, unless it's in defense of the Hunchback of the Notre Dame. Proper men watched The Lion King and Jungle Book as kids.

    And Thunderbirds. Virgil was the man.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Zenith; 22nd June 2017 at 14:04.

  10. #50

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