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Thread: Team Coolspeedbot: first feather weight robot

  1. #351
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    Paul Withers
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    Firstly, I am not an expert in building robots, so someone may have a much better suggestion.

    LED dimming

    When you put a lot of power into the motor (AKA gunning it), you will draw lots of current.
    When the robot is on the floor, the motors have to do more work than sitting on a bench (its got to drive around and move its own weight when it is on the floor) so they will draw more current.

    When you draw current from the battery, the voltage of the battery will drop due to its internal resistance. So it makes sense that your LEDs will go slightly dimmer when you are driving around. However, a LiPo battery has a very low internal resistance so I would guess it should be fine?? (someone with more experience may know).

    What batteries are you using? Are you pushing their capabilities?

    Thinking about it more, there could be a high resistance in a connector or solder joint somewhere between the battery and where the LEDs break out (this would have the same effect as resistance in the battery).

    Motors Twitching
    I am not sure why the motors would be twitching. Maybe try adding a small deadzone on your controller and see if it helps? (sorry for not being much help)

    Mysterious clicking noise
    When you plug in the removable link it may create a small spark between the contacts. This may be what you are hearing. Is it one click? Or a series of clicks?

    Footnote: The spark is caused by the capacitors in your ESC charging up and drawing lots of current. You can get anti-spark connectors to stop it sparking (there are some XT60 ones, not sure about other connectors). In my experience, as long as you can't see a lot of black/dark areas in the contacts where it has sparked, you should be fine (if you see anything, you can always post a picture).


    I hope this helps, just let me know if you want me to explain something better.

  2. #352
    Coolspeedbot's Avatar
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    James Booth
    Robots
    Antweights: Killer-Wolf 2, Bunny-Ears. Featherweight: CSB (in progress)
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    Dover, Kent.
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    372
    Quote Originally Posted by PaulusSmallus View Post
    Firstly, I am not an expert in building robots, so someone may have a much better suggestion.

    LED dimming

    When you put a lot of power into the motor (AKA gunning it), you will draw lots of current.
    When the robot is on the floor, the motors have to do more work than sitting on a bench (its got to drive around and move its own weight when it is on the floor) so they will draw more current.

    When you draw current from the battery, the voltage of the battery will drop due to its internal resistance. So it makes sense that your LEDs will go slightly dimmer when you are driving around. However, a LiPo battery has a very low internal resistance so I would guess it should be fine?? (someone with more experience may know).

    What batteries are you using? Are you pushing their capabilities?

    Thinking about it more, there could be a high resistance in a connector or solder joint somewhere between the battery and where the LEDs break out (this would have the same effect as resistance in the battery).

    Motors Twitching
    I am not sure why the motors would be twitching. Maybe try adding a small deadzone on your controller and see if it helps? (sorry for not being much help)

    Mysterious clicking noise
    When you plug in the removable link it may create a small spark between the contacts. This may be what you are hearing. Is it one click? Or a series of clicks?

    Footnote: The spark is caused by the capacitors in your ESC charging up and drawing lots of current. You can get anti-spark connectors to stop it sparking (there are some XT60 ones, not sure about other connectors). In my experience, as long as you can't see a lot of black/dark areas in the contacts where it has sparked, you should be fine (if you see anything, you can always post a picture).


    I hope this helps, just let me know if you want me to explain something better.
    Thanks for the response Paul, from what you and others on facebook have said. It looks like the motors are drawing some current
    away from the LEDs but has they still function fully when the robot is still they'll be fine.

  3. #353
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    James Booth
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    Antweights: Killer-Wolf 2, Bunny-Ears. Featherweight: CSB (in progress)
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    Dover, Kent.
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    So after some thinking I felt that the light dimming needed to be addressed despite other roboteers on facebook saying it should be fine. And sure enough it was a simple problem and a simple solution. Basically the LEDs where under voltage due to running them in a series that required 19 volts and I'm running CSB on 16.8 volts at full charge from the 4cell lipo battery. In order to fix the issue I simply bought some resisters that could help run the LEDs in two parallel sets of 3 and after a afternoon of rewiring the LEDs CSB's lights barely dim and are far brighter now.


  4. #354
    TechAUmNu's Avatar
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    Euan Mutch
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    Robots: Triforce(HW) ESCS: A200S & A450S (in progress)
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    Our LED strips on Elevate were making so much heat we thought they would set the batteries on fire!

  5. #355
    Coolspeedbot's Avatar
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    James Booth
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    Antweights: Killer-Wolf 2, Bunny-Ears. Featherweight: CSB (in progress)
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    Dover, Kent.
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    Quote Originally Posted by TechAUmNu View Post
    Our LED strips on Elevate were making so much heat we thought they would set the batteries on fire!
    Yikes.

  6. #356
    Coolspeedbot's Avatar
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    James Booth
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    Antweights: Killer-Wolf 2, Bunny-Ears. Featherweight: CSB (in progress)
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    New Side panels plus new top and base plates have been cut. The new side panels aid in the robot's manoeuvrability when it's upside down.



    New wheels made to have better purchase on the ground as the old ones used to bounce and cause wheel spin.
    The hubs made by Pre-Cut services.


  7. #357
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    James Booth
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    Antweights: Killer-Wolf 2, Bunny-Ears. Featherweight: CSB (in progress)
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    This is it. Coolspeedbot is ready for Extreme Robots Maidstone. Everything is packed and ready to load into the car tomorrow morning. Then a 1 hour drive to Maidstone.


  8. #358
    Coolspeedbot's Avatar
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    James Booth
    Robots
    Antweights: Killer-Wolf 2, Bunny-Ears. Featherweight: CSB (in progress)
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    With Extreme Robots Maidstone over I did a write up on my facebook page:
    https://www.facebook.com/teamcoolspe...261?__tn__=K-R

    WP_20181028_002.jpg

    The plan now is to strip down CSB and upgrade it to improve so the drive, manoeuvrability and add more weight as I've got 5kg left over.

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