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Thread: I'm looking to build a reliable featherweight but don't know where to start

  1. #11
    typhoon_driver's Avatar
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    Gary Cairns
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    Hardox grades - 400, 450, 500 would be the more common grades. Any of these would be fine for chassis material. As to suppliers, put it into google and see who is closest to you.

    Colson wheels and hubs you will need to order from the US. Somewhere like Robotmarketplace.com. Nowhere supplies them this side of the pond.

  2. #12
    Ellis's Avatar
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    Ellis
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    I can strongly recommend "K-cut" for your Hardox needs. They have a variety of thickness ex-stock and if you send them a DXF design of what you need they can watercut it for very reasonable prices. They also have a super fast turnaround (often only a day or two).

  3. #13
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    Rory Charlesworth
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    Seconded, Ellis. Can confirm, one day shipping to me.

  4. #14
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    Sam Witts
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    Hi again,

    The rules state that a power light must be used (surface mounted, non-flashing, and in direct contrast to the surroundings of the light). I recently updated my battery requirements (from the 7.2v REEDY Wolfpack battery sticks mentioned earlier on in the post, to 8.4v 3300mAh HPI Racing PLAZMA NiMH batteries). What are the best LED based lights that are capable of running on 8.4v 3300mAh NiMH batteries?

  5. #15
    overkill's Avatar
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    Nick Martin
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    You can use any LED you like, it just needs to have a suitable voltage dropping resistor in series with it. First, find the LED you want to use and look at it's specifications. You need to know the current and voltage of the LED, then you use an on-line calculator like this one: http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz to calculate the resistor value.

  6. #16
    Eventorizon's Avatar
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    I'd suggest generic 12V LED strip or a Panel Mount 12V LED (you can find both at Maplins- http://goo.gl/dI4j03, or on Ebay- http://goo.gl/Xg6c6V http://goo.gl/yujLSJ ) - They will be slightly dim as they will be under volted but with a good long run of LED strip you can't really go wrong.
    Last edited by Eventorizon; 4th July 2016 at 08:18.

  7. #17
    Roboteer

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    Agree with Alex, stick a 12V one in, I've used them on a 7.2V pack and they work fine.

  8. #18
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    Sam Witts
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    Hi,

    My design's changed slightly, I plan to utilise a grabber/crusher in the vein of the S5 incarnation of Suicidal Tendencies (where the crusher and lifter work as one)

    I plan to utilise a linear actuator which would pull the two parts together, however I'm unsure what ESC is best for the actuator.
    I plan to utilise this linear actuator:

    https://gimsonrobotics.co.uk/categor...inear-actuator

  9. #19
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