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Thread: failsafe/removable link rules

  1. #1

  2. #2
    You don't need a switch on a Featherweight just a removable link, LED's are used to indicate whether the robot has power or not, you wire them into your system so that when the robot is powered up the LED lights up and vice versa. Failsafe's are electronic cutouts that activate upon signal loss, I.e when the Transmitter loses signal with the receiver the failsafe will kick in and the robot will stop. They will either be built in to you receiver or speed controllers or you can buy external failsafes that you plug into your receiver and wire into your system.

  3. #3
    So you know, a 'Removable Link' isn't a part you can 'buy', you couldn't go into an engineering shop and get one for instance. It is simply a connector like an EC5 or TX60 where you wire it so one section, usually the male section, can be pulled out, breaking the circuit.

    Here is an example from a beetleweight:

    2014-11-28 13.19.06.jpg

    Here, the power goes straight out the positive side of the battery and into a connector, TX60, only when the other half of the link is instered is the circut complete. Note: there is no fuse in this loom but you just need to solder it in directly after the link.


    Given you do need a fuse, some people use their fuse as their link in combination with a fuse holder like this:

    http://www.technobotsonline.com/maxi...der-30430.html

    with a fuse like this, rated below your batteries maximum current draw as described in the rules, like this:

    http://www.technobotsonline.com/60a-maxi-fuse.html

    And then pull out the fuse to break the circuit
    Last edited by Eventorizon; 28th November 2014 at 14:21.

  4. #4

  5. #5
    As long as it can handle the current from your machine and it can be pulled out by hand you should be fine, most people use Deans, easy to get hold of and you just solder a loop of wire between the two connectors.

  6. #6
    You are better off using the same connector type as is on your batteries, which will either be EC5 or TX60. More connector types just makes things trickier and costs more money.

  7. #7
    I have started using these Maxi fuse units for the removable link

    http://www.technobotsonline.com/50a-maxi-fuse.html

    and the fuse holder

    http://www.technobotsonline.com/maxi...der-30430.html

    You have a removable link, and the fuse for LiPo batteries.

  8. #8
    "Finally, lighting. The easiest way to do this is to add a LED or light strip to your receiver. When your receiver gets power then the LED will activate too. Here are 2 examples:"

    Nope, your led must be wired to your batteries no through a receiver. The reason is if the Rx fails the LEDs could go out and the robot will still be live.

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