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Glad it is all coming together and mobile on a static test ;)
If it comes to it, I found a spool of speaker wire from B&Q works very well. It is stiff in very short sections but longer than 10cm or so and it works fine. I used that in The Honey Badger and works OK for that application. XT30 or 60 connectors work very well for this as well.Quote:
I bought some multicore 30A cable but it's a bit too heavy duty. I am also wondering if using the deans connectors is overkill.
Got a delivery today. The long awaited shell has arrived. Just in time to fit it together over Easter weekend.
Delay was because it 2mm titanium and it's a complicated shape.
Attachment 7902
Assembly began with disassembling the aluminium mock up.
Fixing the drives to the mounts.
Attachment 7903
The mounts were not perfect, I must have measured wrong, but I managed to get them on.
Attachment 7904
All going to plan at this stage. Then I plug in battery to test it.
POP! Oh no! ....
Lesson 1: don't use the same connector for your kill jumper/switch as you use for your battery
yep I connected the battery wrong and possibly blowing the lot
But here was my saviour ...
Attachment 7905
a fast reacting blade fuse (30A)
thank goodness I installed a fuse
Attachment 7909
walls and weapon rested on not fully fitted. but it looks mean
weapon is titanium too. it's nice and tight on the spindle but need to get a grub screw
Attachment 7910
coming in under weight.
but looking very full
using some pond filter foam a it's quite stiff but very light and breathable so keeps things cool
Attachment 7911
tomorrow I want to try and fit the sides and a roof.
there was meant to be a second floor roof panel, but some how it was not done and as it was a favour and it turned into a lot bigger job than expected I don't want to ask again.
I have aluminium and some polycarbonate, I quite like the idea of a clear roof. what do you think?
I can't see the pictures in your second post but it does look like it is coming together - thank goodness for fuses though, eh?
Do you mean clear? If so, I have PVC and Arcylic roof for Shu!, the latter I prefer using when testing to make sure all is well underneath but for combat, I stick with the PVC lid. If I get around to it, a polycarbonate roof would be nice. ;)Quote:
I have aluminium and some polycarbonate, I quite like the idea of a dear roof. what do you think?
Thanks. When I edit post pictures are shown but I also don't see them in the thread. Wired I'll give it another go.
I think that worked.
For roof I have 2mm aluminium and 2mm polycarbonate (I have some 10mm but that stuff is heavy). The 2mm poly was intended for ants, and would be too weak for combat and better suited for testing. I'll make a template so I can make and aluminium one and spares.
I think I'll try the poly first, not worked with it yet. Be a learning experience.
Need to work out the fixings to hold it together.
Aye, they worked, it does look very full in there.
Drilling Polycarbonate is remarkably easy in my experience when I built my first Antweight arena and when I drilled the motor support holes for Kaizen. https://www.simplyplastics.com/guide...rbonate-sheet/ (this should help).Quote:
I think I'll try the poly first, not worked with it yet. Be a learning experience.
Yep my pillar drill cuts through incredibly easily. Sawing it was more challenging, seems I have the wrong blades as easier cutting on forward stroke, back snags, but I adjusted my technique and got the job done.
Bought some aluminium angle from B&Q it was cheaper than eBay, Amazon, Screwfix or any direct metal supplier I could find. Decent selection too.
Using this aluminium to make the fixings to hold the polycarbonate inside the body. Picture later. I will run out of nuts and bolts though :( need more M2.5 so not going to finish this weekend due to the bank holiday deliveries
Here are the picture from today's work.
I bought this polycarbonate as A4 sheets, drilling was easy as I mentioned in the last post. Cutting more challenging. I used my Dremel to smooth it off after. The angle I cut in strips and drilled for 2.5mm then I used these as templates (hence the markings) to locate where to drill the body. I have made it so the roof fits inside the body so it gets some protection. Poly is good for impacts but at 2mm not what I want exposed.
Attachment 7913
The rig you see above was to allow me to bend over the end to provide a shield behind the weapon. I have a Dremel gas tool that I used as a heat gun, the result is quite pleasing. I moved the gun back and forth about 4-cm from the edge I wanted to bend. Later moving further back to keep it at temperature once I started to bend it, apply gentle force. It bent at a nice tight angle and only one spot discoloured or rather small bubbles formed where is suspect it got a bit too warm.
Attachment 7914
Without the screws I can't fully fix it in place. But here is it half in.
Attachment 7915
The electronics you see is a "powered" indicator. I found this on eBay it's for cars so handles 12v easy.
Attachment 7916
To fix the shell to the floor I cut some right angle aluminium, glued (as no welder) on nuts to inside.
It's still really packed inside. I cut a couple of cables down, but I think I need to do more in tidying the cables.
But it runs!
https://youtu.be/K95rtwOFC-I
Still to do:
Wire up the powered on light
Shorten cables
Make a mount and assemble the high speed weapon
But it could happily compete as it stands.