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Some images to followup Colin's post yesterday evening, and even a gif this week!
Firstly, the lathe - Colin has spent a lot of time at the wheel of this over the past week, turning the poles for the new gearing stuff. Here one of the poles can be seen, after been turned somewhat already.
Attachment 7731
Secondly, the completed reduction sprockets on their central mount.
Attachment 7730
Thirdly, a quick gif which demonstrates the level of reduction from chain movements.
http://imghst.co/82/1.gif
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IT'S ALIVE-ALIVE I TELL YOU!-A very good day on the Robot today, after realising
that the overall gearing to the drive from the motor was wrong at 4:1 we decided
to go for 8:1 and finished one of the reducer sprockets last week.
We usually have a four hour build session on a Sunday 12-4pm but to be sure of
getting any where near being able to test a new ratio set up I put some hours in
on Saturday and Sunday morning too.
On Saturday I turned down a length of bar using a old lawnmower cylinder
blade as the spindle to set the double sprockets on.
I then welded on the sprockets and added the end cap-I was very pleased with
the sprocket alignment, it was straight and true, two bushes were then set into
old sprockets as housings and they were welded to two brackets to support the
spindle / sprocket set up.
When Adam arrived with the half links he ordered on Sunday we were
able to fit the chains to both sets of reducer sprockets and it was time to test.
After a temporary wiring job we set the Robot on the patio and gave it a whirl-
needles to say we were more than pleased and I said to Adam "This is the champagne"
moment.
Attachment 7760Attachment 7762Attachment 7761
1 lawnmomer blade used for metal
2 the reducer sprockets
3 Adam adjusting the motor wires
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And a little extra from me!
Also covered today, we replaced the blown out banana / bullet connectors from the old ESC blowout. This allowed us today for the first time in a while, not to resort to using bonding tape around one of the connections, and will help largely with a proper and stable electric circuit over bumps, as its possible this was a contributer to some of the problems.
But the moment we've all been waiting for, include myself and Colin. The robot alive, and moving in a manner we were both happy with!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaLGbQkiMxg
At this point, we're both confident we're on the right track, and the only real challenge left we hope, will be working out the weapon and its motor, with the added sprockets for the 8:1 ratio limiting space internally a little. I'm sure we'll manage to find a way though.
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Well done lads.. I Did a test on mine today too must be the day for it
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In Readiness for this weeks Robot build I ordered a couple of clamps on e bay
and they arrived just in time for use this Sunday.
Unfortunately due to the bad weather, Adam was unable to come through this
weekend but hopes to make next Sunday.
During the week I had time to weld in place the retro fit sprocket to the winch
and managed once again to get it spot on straight.
Today I worked on the Jaws and a possible way to drive the winch sprocket
through the narrowed gap created by the drive reducer sprockets.
It turned out that there was just enough space at the side of the reducer strut to
run a line of chain up to the front mounted motor drive.
To make this idea work meant moving the winch drive motor to a more internal
position and thats where the clamps came in to support the motor.
Upon fitting the chain in place it looked like needing another half chain link, so
rather than settle for that I decided to enlarge the adjustment slots on the winch
so the chain could be easily adjusted.
Lastly-I noticed one of the drive reducer sprockets chains was slightly tight so
I slackened off the drive motor and added a metal shim under the clamp to lift
the motor and so give a little slack in the chain.
There are still the jaws to re fit but thats just a ten minute job and theres no
reason to think they wont work as well as before.
Next week we will probably concentrate on the electrics and get them to
competition standard.
Heres some photos showing the clamp and the chain from the winch up to
the winch drive motor.
Attachment 7799Attachment 7800Attachment 7801
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Todays build session was set aside for the electrical but unfortunatley
Adam was unavailable this week and a last minute change of plan was
needed.
I had noticed that the rear of the Robot was a little untidy and this was
clearly evident in the first video or the Robot moving around, so todays
plan was to tidy up the rear and discover if the cavity there would house
the switch gear for the jaws.
On inspection there was quite a lot of room in the gap and also there's a
convenient channel in the metal structure to run the wiring loom into.
The Rear of the Robot is probably the strongest part of the Bot-designed to
take the flip of a full pessure heavyweight flipper and also be resistant to
spinners-there may be shock issues with putting the electrics in there but
there is also plenty of room for foam padding.
I then welded the top of the rear of the Robot with some 3mm steel and
the lower (access) door was bolted on
Attachment 7829Attachment 7830Attachment 7831
Picture 1-plate to cover gap
2 The rear cavity with a sample switch to show space
3 top view or Robot with plated piece showing
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Those fuse switches easily flip off, I would imagine a hit from anything would cause them to switch off... Would advise on replacing them with something more oh what's the word... It clicks and stays switched...
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Thank's Nat
The switches are just to show the area of space and will not be used in
the Robot.
When Adam returns I will talk to him about speed controllers and types
of switches.
We only need a simple on off really because the jaws need to close as fast as
possible and then we need a powered return so I'm looking at 80 amp
speed controlllers on Ranglebox but they have sold out-any suggestions
welcome.
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The turnigy TZ85A are sold out from all suppliers, and according to hobbyking, will be back in stock in 3-4 weeks time now.
The ranglebox ones are the same but programmed to run as brushed motor drivers.
Shakey ones are lower amperage but as shakey says shoudl; work if using the right motors.
Otherwise there may be some avaiilable soon.
Hobbyking ones will need to be programmed yourself or by a fellow competitor. not sure what other options are available.